Race Map 3 on TE511

So after getting the remapping, changing coolant to XF, and changing oil to 0w-40 per Tinken's recommendation, I still managed to boil fuel yesterday. I'm also still having poor hot starting and occasional flame out. The flame out was not as bad as the last previous ride but still happens. So I'm going to try the TPS reset and adjust idle screw. I also will try wrapping the header pipe. For those that have done the wrapping, did you remove the header pipe or leave it on the bike? I don't really want to remove it but how else to get the wrap around it?

Here's where I was riding. Rio Puerco area, NM.

Header is held on by two nuts in the front, studs in head. Try wrapping it without removing, take your time.

ok, so I have to obviously unroll the wrap and just be patient to keep pulling the length through?

Yes, over lapping it as you go. I use a hose clamp to finish it off.

Anybody know roughly what kind of power and torque the 511 produces with the map set 3 and open exhaust?

So, how does it ride now, all good?

Depends on the exhaust system

Tinken, I have the FMF exhaust.

DM, thanks for asking. I am still overheating/boiling fuel with the remap and XF coolant. I plan to wrap the header and try adjusting the idle screw this weekend. Hoping for the best.

45-47bhp

Do you have numbers for the Akrapovic slip-on muffler, 449/511?

I have a couple of those slip ons here at the shop, but never ran the dyno on them. They are pretty choked up, a little less than the big cans. When you replace yours you will see significantly higher power as well as weight decrease.

I've wrapped mine twice now. First time I did it was because I was boiling gas. But in the process of getting my O2 sensor welded in, the welder (Meticulous Metals in Loomis, CA: http://meticulousmetals.com/) was being, um, meticulous. So he had me take the header off and on about 5 times while we got the sensor lined up just right. He did an awesome job, but I got a lot of practice pulling the header. I've also pulled it once to freeze it to get a big dent out. And I pulled it one final time to wrap it again because I had to remove the initial wrap to get the sensor welded.

I think it would be a tough job to try to wrap it on the bike. The bends make it a little tricky. And, you need to maintain some tightness while wrapping. Considering that it takes about 5 minutes to pull it, I think it's worth it. Best advice I can give you is to loosen the bolts that hold the muffler and mid-pipe on the bike. That makes pulling header off easy.

I used the DEI Titanium Wrap per Tinken's suggestion. I also wrapped my mid-pipe. Plus to fight the boiling gas, I put some heat shield tape on the lower gas tank. No more boiling gas...

You did a great job, looks good. Also, remember that the fuel pump is giving off a good amount of heat as well. Pretty close to having a 40watt light bulb in that little forward tank. Heat wrapping your pipe makes a huge difference.

If you are still running that hot, make sure you have a full load of oil (1150cc). The common delivery (or Husq recommendation) is to underfill the oil (seems to be 800cc or 900cc by accounts on CF). Oil obviously plays an important part in keeping your engine cool. On my bike, 1150cc is about half the window when cold and holding the bike upright. When warm, the oil completely fills the window. If you do this and get oil ejaculation issues (he he he) then try the breather mod first from ZipTy ($40) or if you want to go all out, get the whole recirc kit from ZipTy. The breather mod is probably a good idea regardless in order to protect your torque limited longer term. There are pages and pages of discussion here on CF, all very valuable and insightful.

With your hot start difficulty:

I'm also in NM (farmington). I ride with guys on KTMs, Husabergs etc. My first ride here my bike wouldn't start easily when hot. The other guys all have the same issue. They told me because the air is so thin here (elevation) you have to crack the throttle just a hair when starting. Too much and it won't start. I've been employing this method with great success since moving here from Texas.

You might find with a touch more idle speed (unscrew the idle screw = more air bypass) your hot starts improve. My suspicion is too low of idle = too little air bypass which creates a rich condition when hot starting. I used to crack my throttle in order to start when hot but don't need to anymore (cold starts have always been perfect). I have had it at altitude (~8,000 ft) and it's the same for me; starts hot without touching throttle. 2 3/4 out idle screw seems to be the setting for my bike. Running akro and reflashed map set #3 from zipty.

"Hot start button" - they only put them on the TC's and is the main reason I switched to the TC tbi.

Correct.
The air by-pass does effect idle mixture, it is extra air without the TPS being moved, so the ecu does not add extra fuel.
One of the problems of using the TPS as the sole load indicator for the ecu.
(The TPS base voltage can be used to correct this by adjusting it)

Another problem also mentioned above is the lack of altitude correction, still no idea why Kehin don't use the installed Map sensor for this.....

As Tinken & others have talked about tbefore the auto-tune systems on PCV etc can do this.