Now that's a bike I'd want! I only just logged on, so prior to that I could only see the small pics, and without my glasses I just didn't clock the rear disc and later front end. Really, we need a reality check at times. An older bike, so long as it was a "good" one, with some good, later model additions, can go up against the latest bikes, very, very often. It's really just the "age" of the bikes that gets them - wear and tear, and corrosion - rust never sleeps, as they say. And, you ain't going to be "outdated" next model year. I always recall Kevin Hines and Terry Cunnyingham's (sp?) 430 Autos, when I think of trick bikes I'd love to have. Hines was the 'trickest', but that pretty much would describe any of his bikes ....... I always gathered he was not lacking for funds, over and above his sponsorship deals. Looking at old pictures of both their bikes, all I'd want, beside set up for me, is a rear disc. The bike above has just that. Later 'Zokes? - which, I think can be made to be very nice, and the rear end - well, that's a given that you could make it work whichever way you wanted. They, If I recall correctly, had quite a nice ratio curve. And "modern bikes", just jump around with those, with the latest 'perceived, perfect ratio'. The 400 / 430 engine is one of the absolute Gems of 2ts - I recall Tinkens employer being quoted in a " real power" article in Dirt Bike that a modern , PV'd water cooled 400cc 2t, would be damned near the perfect engine. The Husky 400 /430s were not "it", but not to far off. Just a side note to Tinken, re his putting up of HP figures of modern 4t 450 /510s against ancient 500 2ts , in , I think the Destry Abbott 500 video - as Danny LaPorte was quoted in the article ( probably 7 / 8 years ago, but, still applicable) - "huge amounts of complication and effort, and look how far we've progressed" ( not verbatim, but that's the jist) ...... try to give just a moment thought to how far 2ts of any type could have come in well over 20 years, with the tiniest of development efforts - the KX500 and CR500s, were / are late 80s / early nineties engines with no development. A CR500 engine, is barely above a BSA Bantam / DKW engine, only having water cooling , CDI and reed valves as base design changes over those WW2 era engines ( BSA got the DKW engine as part of "war reparations"). I know, my current, long time ride is a 2003 CRE500. All I'd want from it now, is a wider ratio gearbox / 6 speed gearbox, and I'd be happy forever - Oh, plus a ES - my RH leg is getting more bent by the day, even with a auto decomp, and an ultra short KS lever. It'll have an ES, eventually. Anyway - back to the 430 Auto. I do wish somehow someone could re-visit the Auto concept like Huskies - once again, a bit of development, and just think how amazing it could be. We, who use Rekluses ( I fitted it so as to have a hand brake - my legs don't work to well, especially when it comes to brakes), are used to near 'freewheeling', dependent on the set up. So there are now quite a few people now near 'trained' to a true Auto Gearbox. The market is 'ripe' for such a thing. Honda even raced with their "Dog Leg / Scissor Link" Auto gearbox - mainly in the "All Japan MX Championships", but Eric Geboers raced a 250 in the Japanese GP, I think - a loooooong time ago, of course. That same basic gearbox concept - the adjustable pivot point, and 'stroke', Scissor Link was campaigned by Honda's works DH team - nothing tests a gearbox's action better than a set of human legs - with three fifths of f*** all HP, but enormous torque, at mind bogglingly low revs, smooth gear changing is very, very hard to get. Of course, they eventually just used a derailleur inside the casing, but it was a brilliant use of "human power/ feel" in conjunction with all their computer modelling and 'engined' testing. In the late 90s, Husky Australia scored a 'forgotten consignment' of 430 Autos - either 'found' in Canada, or they were 'ear marked for Canada, and forgotten about in the factory - a bizzare story, either way. I think, near a 100 of them. Hans got them, and they went out the door for about $3,995 - a cheap, cheap price in OZ, even up against Japanese 'trailbikes such as XRs, at the time. I've long regretted not snaffling a couple up. A rear disc, a different front end - cripes, I recently got an entire WP CC front end, for just on $400, to put on my CRE500 - you can find bargains on the internet and, with my valving, my changes to make them 'real' CCs, and an SKF Seal and bushing kit, it's sooooo much better than the much fettled 46mm Kayaba's. With the benefit of the real reason I wanted the front end for - the 4mm reduction in clamp offset, with another 2mm to play with - 18/20s, over 24mm std. Some will say the older Huskies steered slowly - well, I get on them, and find those - the single shock / spine framers, to steer well. And they are even better with a different front end from the std 40s. And, if it were needed, a days cutting and shutting, could bring the head angle to whatever you wanted - I'm a bicycle and motorycle frame maker, so it's no problem to do such things. Slim, simple, with a reasonable 'drop tank' - one of my obsessions on bikes, and that wonderful engine, with the last of the Autos. I wish some company would produce a modern version of the Husky Auto. I'm not at all surprised that bloke is doing well on his '86.
I used to motocross a 390 automatic kicked major but on it people used to come and tell me my clutch was slipping
Uhu ! I've missed that thread last year ! I think the forks and wheels came from a 98 410 or 610 ! Is the rear Wheel come easily in the rear fork ? What are spacers ? What is left lever ? Thanks
Hi Michel, fellow Auto enthusiast. The rear wheel and front wheel assembly including forks is from a 1998 wr250. I had to bush the bearings down for the smaller rear axle to fit the '86 swingarm. Also shaved off a little on both sides of the rear wheel hub. The lever actuates the drive/neutral lever for our dead engine starts in Hare Scrambles. As you now engine must be a idle speed to engage drive, so the lever is released just before the engine fires as I follow through with the kick starter. I get it right about 90% of the time. I raced this same setup in 1986 & 1987 on the stock bike. Mickel, I am interested in how the new springs work out that you are having made.
Interesting ! And what about the left lever ? About the 1st clutch springs, they 'll be made in early September. The shape is the 500 spring shape. Hope they will work well. I've glued 2 big magnets in the motor to retain little steel parts. Do you broke often 1st springs ?
How the rear brake system is attached to swing arm ? Is your motor getting too hot in Hare and scramble ?
Oh, sorry. The other lever on the left is for the rear brake. Only way I will ride a dirt bike now. I tried to make a left hand rear brake back in 1986, but with the cable/rod operated rear drum brake it was imposible. It's fun riding the auto, my feet have nothing to do except keep me on the bike.
I welded a threaded insert in the swing arm as seen in the photo of the rear brake disc, and bolted a collar that fixes the caliper holder. As for over heating, NEVER has this EVER been an issue, not in 1986 and not now. There is only one way to ride the Auto successfully, that is to always get on the throttle hard so the first gear clutch shoes engage the drum fully. Small feathered throttle openings cause to much slippage in the first gear clutch overheating the gearbox. In 1986 & 1987 I race about 30 Hare Sccrambles and Enduros combined and never had a DNF and only broke a spring once or twice and repaired it trailside.
I like the magnet idea, I am using that one. I am going to try a hard-drive magnet, very thin, VERY strong. Could magnets be used to help keep metal particles out of the oil for slightly better oil life?
Where would you get hard drive magnets from? I assuming from a computer hard drive yes.... or am I completely wrong?
Yes exactly, find an old computer hard drive (ask your local computer repair shop for one) and open it up (drill out the weird screws they use on them). There is a picture below of one for reference. They aren't huge, quite thin, the magnet is just the smaller raised portion actually. Some can be strong enough that if your fingers get caught between 2 of them there is possibility of broken bones, which is why one is enough! Would need to be glued/fastened down well, but this is what I am going to try. Should catch anything in there that is ferrous.
