Rekluse Core EXP 3.0 full kit for my TE300........

Really? As you know I seldom ever quote any post on Café Husky directly.

What auto clutch do you have Kelly on your TE 511? Or did you mean another one of your bikes? An EFM auto clutch maybe ? Certainly not a Rekluse autoclutch or do you?

Rekluse never made any auto clutch for the Kymco engine. That must be as rare as rocking horse babys or Hens teeth.

"Barnett" who has made clutch plates for just about every motorcycle ever made, never even made a set of clutch plates for these engines let alone anyone else. No other after market company that makes clutch plates or brake linings or pads has ever made clutch plates for these engines either.

"Suter" still makes a slipper clutch if you got about 1300.00. No longer in there catalog though but neither is the EFM Autoclutch for these engines and it is a full auto clutch, no lever or activation is used or is possible, so most go to a LHRB with the EFMs on any Kymco/G450X engine or Husky TE,TXC,or TC 449/511s.

Oh, OK.
So did you do the full on LHRB or stay with the pedal and hook up a double banjo to the rear master cylinders outlet side to the rear brake? Or did you just take the lever off.

You can use the Husky's Hydraulic lever to activate the rear brake can't you?

I mean the bore is big enough to do that right? I never ripped mine apart next to the spare Brembo front brake lever I have, to see how big the piston in the clutch lever is. It would be easy enough.

I passed on a half priced EFM for my G450X on ebay as it had no lever function and the kit came with the full length hose and juice lever to remove the brake pedal all together and the rear master cylinder. I just wanted the lever to still be able to be used.

May go with one at some time in the New FE 501 but its a bike you can ride lazy even with a standard clutch on the New FE 501. That thing can be nearly stopped completely without even pulling the clutch and it keeps running in the rocks. Never stalled it even once. It's like a tractor in low range or a locomotive. Its unbelievable. Flame outs are non existent and nearly impossible.

About 5 years, with an EFM on WR125, 144 and 165. It worked great and you had full use of the clutch lever, which you really need on a small bore. Clutch pull was nice, it would stiffen up as the rpm's rose, but was never too stiff. The clutch lever was completely loose, at none to low rpm's, so we would put a spring over the cable, by where it hooks to cases, to make lever rigid. It didn't take long to get used to it and you could clutch it out of corners and up hills.

As I was used to having an auto clutch, I wanted one for the '12 Husaberg TE250. The EFM worked better in my eyes, than the Rekluse Z Start Pro clutched bikes I had ridden. I wasn't sure about the Rekluse Core EXP or EXP style; I thought I'd try the Rekluse EXP, as it was the cheapest and simplest solution. It works well, except it stiffened up the clutch pull considerably. I had pretty much stopped using the clutch manually, like on the small bore, because of this hard lever pull. This sort of slowed me down a bit coming out of corners. Rich Lafferty, got me back using the clutch again, but the lever pull is hard on my beat up old hand. Rekluse has told me that clutch pull, on a full Core EXP is much lighter. The TE250 may be going down the road sometime, so I'm not going to spend $800+, to find out whether it's true or not! E start on the 250/300 2T may negate, the no stall advantage too!

I decided to not put an auto clutch on my TE125 and have gotten used to it in the past 6 months. I feel I can fine tune power delivery and traction better, with a manual clutch and can also bump start it.

Contrary to the Rekluse sales pitch, I don't think the auto clutch is smarter than you are.... All it can do is react to your throttle input and engage and disengage. The rider still has to sense the traction that is available. In a technical situation you are closing the throttle, to limit engagement with an auto clutch, if you don't use the lever manually. With a manual clutch... you can maintain your throttle and use the clutch engagement to find traction. To pardon the pun... You are much more engaged, in the search for traction!

The 300 2T may be the perfect bike for a Rekluse though, as it has so much torque. Give it a try Rob and Rekluse will give you your money back if you don't like it.

I hated the Rekluse on my 125, 144 and 150.... to me it needs constant clutch input that the auto couldnt do....on a 300 it was awesome.... I still just dont feel I need it for a once or twice a race kill.... just my feeling...

My 300 had an EXP 2.0 ( the cheapest they made I think) installed when I bought it. My first auto clutch and I didn't like it at all. But even the EXP 2 is pretty tunable, so I played with springs and lever adjustment and now I love it. It's saved my ass a couple of times by not stalling when I've gotten way out of shape. Def had to adapt to it, but it's worth the trouble for me. Like some other vet rider/racer said: it's a game changer.
In the open, fast stuff I still use the clutch as usual. I think it's mostly old habit, but the act of clutching is part of the coordination and timing of the shift. In the woods I can just leave it in 3rd @ most of the time, 2nd for tight turns, obstacles and steep climbs, 4th on a couple downhills I'm much more smooth and overall faster in the tight stuff now. Also, so much less clutching, shifting and worrying about my gear selection, so can focus on my line more and less fatigued.

My current setup is working really well for me: the Rekluse with well-lubed Terminator cable and Moose EZ3 clutch lever, amazing Lectron with G2 throttle w/400 cam, QStealth with stock pipe. No noticeable loss of power, just super smooth and revs to the moon.

Mine started to drag again @ 60hrs, still within spec, but getting a little thin. Readjusted and hit the best sweet spot yet, clutch has just a little drag, no stalling, starts in gear! and 2 finger pull, slipping it is almost normal too now. Like someone else said, it's great for squaring off a turn. If there's a good line I find I can carve the turns much easier and sometimes don't need to downshift, so carry a lot more momentum.

I think most of the complaints and prob's with the EXP 2/3 are from poor install and lack of fine tuning.

Oh snap! Now I'm going to go ride instead of doing chores

http://www.clake.com.au/


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86qN3anUTy8


These LHRB levers look pretty cool but are only available for hydraulic clutches and are expensive. My clutch lever is the go to panic button for "Oh sh!t bail out" moments so removing the lever is right out (you can't get whiskey throttle with the clutch pulled in). The feel of the clutch engagement is important when trying to slip it the perfect amount for traction control on obstacles. I'm assuming with a recluse you're turning all that over to the auto clutch.

Cracks me up when people say they are so much faster with a Rekluse.... with proper clutch control and shifting you will be a faster....it'll take talent skill and practice.... are there times when the Rekluse can do it better than a human? yes when you are out of shape would be the biggest help.... but to ride around a track in 3rd gear and say your faster...NO WAY

Some folks like that setup, but I agree that no way I'm giving up clutch lever and/or brake pedal.
I didn't get to use the stock clutch, but the Rekluse def feels different than any clutch I've used before. Like I said though, even with the EXP 2, with some careful fine tuning and minor mod's I've got pretty normal action. Proper gearing has made a big diff for me too. I tried 13:46, 13:45, now 14:49/3.50 (w/114 links) is the best yet.
With the EXP series, I think the Core EXP as well, as the revs increase the clutch engages and the lever acts more like normal.

Sorry, but that's the 2nd time in a week you've got a laugh out of misrepresenting a comment of mine Maybe re-read more carefully or get someone who understands proper English to help you Or maybe we should meet up and you can eat my roost If the only advantage you got from it was "...a once or twice a race kill..." then it's obvious to me you didn't make the effort to tune it properly or adapt your technique to take advantage of it.
If I say I'm faster with the Rekluse, then I am. Maybe I was a slow, old dog before, how the F do you know?
I can assure you I practice proper clutch control and shifting. Again, you can eat my roost if you'd like proof.
I'll take talent, skill and practice too and do.
And, I don't "...ride around a track in 3rd gear..." I ride fast, rough fire roads, grass track, trail and single track in the deep woods and local HS races again soon. I use all the gears every ride and also reach for 6th still.

/end OT rebuttal

What does this say?

the woods I can just leave it in 3rd @ most of the time, 2nd for tight turns, obstacles and steep climbs

And yes there is a bike has 5-6 gears and a clutch and not a 3 shoe clutch like a 50.... sorry I hurt your ego.....

Oh man please! And how does that translate to "ride around a track in 3rd gear" ? Not sure what else you're attempting to say and don't care actually.
I just prefer clarity and accuracy, not some lame, useless comments. Maybe some ego involved too, so be it. Sorry or don't like it? Then be more careful with your comments.

cya!

I was thinking more of circumstances like when I hit a log hidden in tall grass in 3rd gear and my feet were not on the pegs or near the rear brake (I could have still grabbed the lever with a recluse if it still had a clutch lever). Don't get me wrong I see the advantages of an auto clutch I'm just not sure if I'd like to give up the feel of the clutch and the slow speed engine braking and engine braking on downhills and being able to push start my bike. I'm no trials expert by any means but I've ridden trials enough to rely on the clutch for to do much of the control of traction and braking and getting an engine into it's powerband. My old man riding style on my wr250 is more trials like control then speed. I guess everyone should make a pros and cons list but that's going to be hard to do unless you've ridden an auto clutch for a while.

You can still bump start your bike, at least with the EXP. Simply adjust at the lever so there's plenty of slack and it will bump start as usual. Had to do it recently and it worked fine. In a race it would cost a few minutes though, so not good. With proper setup and a Lectron it's not an issue though

Oh yes you can still bump start, but not on the fly. A little more involved, on a bike with a hydraulic clutch, especially if you don't have the Rekluse adjustable slave cylinder....