I've got to say the three calls I've had with Rekluse have gone quite well. They're interested in TE's, but just keeping up with sales and development for the "sea or orange" (KTM for noobs), and other MX bikes has them running near 100%. Neither sales person, nor the tech person I spoke with was very familiar with Husky, or the 610 (much less the 630). They had no idea the clutch was identical in so many models of Husky. My kit was delayed by a single spring (6 in the kit), but when I called, the salesman said, "sorry your order has been here a week. I'll go through the returns boxes and find one of those springs (new), and get your kit out the next day." As promised I got an email with the invoice and shipment tracking number. They also are very interested in some documentation on what setups are working. Guys (and gals), we're just not a big enough market to devote already busy resources to. That's my two cents. More after this weekend's install.
You guys won't have any problem with the install. The instructions that come with the kits are very detailed and easy to understand.
Install wasn't that big a deal, but there are evidently differences in the 2009 TE610 and the 2008 TE 450 & 510 the RMS-568 clutch made for them. Being unfamiliar with Rekluse's, and considering it was after hours for Rekluse, I was on my own. Issue 1: Disassemble, and first discovery the 2009 TE610 throw out shaft is significantly larger than the hole in the Rekluse throwout supplied (Husky shaft is near 2x diameter), so I just left stock throwout and started reassembly. The remaining Rekluse parts were installed with C200L4, C150M3, six Tungsten balls and 21 Steel balls (spring selection came from a 2008 TE610 rider. I couldn't wait to see how wonderfully light the clutch pull was, so I pilled the lever, but NOTHING in the clutch pack moved, so I surmized the issue was use of my stock throwout. OK back to directions, and since the WR250 also used the stock husky throwout, I put in the Rekluse supplied WR250 spacer (Rekluse# 115-015). Now I had action in the clutch pack so I went back together with same springs and buttoned it all up, warmed the bike and started "Rekluse initial break-in procedure. Issue 2: Uh oh, the bike requires brake application to stand still with the clutch out, but when the engine is rev'd with clutch lever out is doesn't put any more power to the rear wheel, it just slips. PANIC Rekluse is closed (Saturday), so a lucky PM got this response from Excuvator, "you did adjust the clutch lever at 4000 rpm, right?" OOPS, the manual makes it sound like that is for WR250 only, so I didn't. Backed the cable all the way out at handlebars, and most of the way out at the crankcase, and Voila! It still takes some brake pressure to hold the bike still with clutch out, but increase the revs, and away she goes. Tuning time: Although the clutch was engaging a little at idle, it didn't start pulling until RPM hit about 2100. So I tore it down and replaced the C150M3 with C150L2. I'm only changing one thing at a time. The bike still wants to move forward at idle 1600, and with the clutch out, and enough brake to hold still, RPM drops to about 1500. I went through the 20+ breakin runs, and it still requires brake application to stop. Just before stop, you can sort of "feel" the clutch disengage a bit. I'm assuming this will smooth out over time. Unfortunately, it does not disengage enough even with the clutch lever to shift into neutral. I'm assuming this is due to the 6 balls and a relatively new Rekluse. Once the bike cools sufficiently, I'm going to the Rekluse recommendation for 2008 TE510 of 6 TC balls, 21 steel, C200L5 and C150L2 (again only one spring change at the time). Side Note: My bike has GIGANTIC Safari tank that requires removal to adjust the clutch cable at the crankcase. If not for that, I'd have already removed the WR250 spacer on the throwout. Now that I understand how "floppy" the clutch lever feels at idle, I suspect I could have done without it and I wouldn't have had to adjust the cable much at all. I'll try to update that before months end.
It's done, lovin' it. Short setup info (C200L5 & C150L2 wave springs, 6 TC balls & 21 SS balls. Idle 1750-1800 in neutral. Result, factory engine braking feel, one finger clutch disengage, no stalling, and snap the throttle to wheelie if you have enough traction. More detail and photos of issues I had to follow.
I put an RMS-865 on my TE630. The idea was to make the bike trailbike a bit more anageble in tight single track, at least in theory. The reaity is that i love playing with gadgets. I ended up using 18 TC balls. You can idle at a stop with just a light touch on the rear brake. Pluses *Installation is easy- read the instruction and follow them. Don't be a smart-arse like me and try to do it otherwise. *In the tight single-track and hills, it is definitly more user-freindly. *In stop-start traffic it is great. *Traffic-light launches are awsome. Minuses- *You get lazy with the clutch, and it spois you for "normal" bikes. *You cant park it using first gear as a handbrake. In combination with the questionable sidestand, this can be a concern. *You can't clutch-start the bike. If the battery is too low to crank, start walking. *For cruisy comuting riding (which is, sadly, most of the miles I do) aroud 3-4k rpm, a handfull of thottle will give a bit of slip before the clutch fully bites. This is not enough to slow you, but it sounds wrong, and will probably war the clutch-plates faster. Not a problem when you are in "fun mode", as the revs are already up and the clutch is biting well. For that last reason, I took it out and put the standard cluch back in. I will keep it, and add another 40 minutes to the convesion from "Hoony road bike" to "Big dirt bike", whenever I swap over wheels, chain, handlebars, and now, clutch.
With the RMS 856 fitting the 610 I was wondering if the Rekluse EXP clutch for the WR 250/300 would also work in Te610
I needed a Basket for my 96 610 and I had just about written it off on finding one, FYI Talon makes a Bitchen' Clutch Basket for the 610's and they're way Cheaper in Cost than the Stock Baskets. I got mine from DUBYA, Kristen hooked me up on it big time! It took a couple of weeks but was worth every penny and the Wait!
For the type of riding I do, the Rekluse doesn't suit me. If you are tootling around at a lazy 30000 or so, there is a little "turbo lag" as the clutch slips a bit before biting. On a gravel road, this means a blip of the throttle won't kick the back out, it slips the clutch nicely to get traction, and then kicks the back out. No a problem if you are on the gas and riding enthusiasticly, but a little uncomfortable when just cruising fireroads. I will take it out again this week. I would prefer it doesn't just gather dust on a shelf, so if anyone wants to make me an offer...
The clutch can be adjusted to engage any way you want it to. Rekluse has all the information on there wesite too help you.
Sizzler, you may want to try the "hard" engagement. If ride with a finger over clutch anyway, you can get same effect by "touching" the clutch with one finger as you blip throttle. Higher revs will give similar effect to "hard" engagement, and bypass any lag. Best luck getting a buyer. If I still had the TE, I'd be all over it!
