Replaced my 1.1mm head gasket with a 1.2mm, now bike won't idle

Here's why my marks are all off and everything seems weird with my bike......

1. Thicker headgasket availability? -
   www.8thcivic.com › ... › Civic Technical › Forced Induction And Nitrous
   Oct 14, 2009 – .... If you run a thicker head gasket, you change the cam phasing, and you will ...
2. 
   Thickness of stock head gasket? [Archive] - SR20 Forum
   www.sr20forum.com › SR20 Forum › Main Forums › Turbo
   20 posts - 11 authors - Feb 1, 2005
   .... the cam timing will be advanced just slightly with a larger headgasket, probably ...
3. 
   Thicker Headgasket without adjustable cam gears? Can someone ...
   honda-tech.com › ... › Forced Induction
   11 posts - 7 authors - Mar 6, 2006
   .. It shouldn't break anything, but your cam timing will be off.
   how many degrees will a thicker head gasket throw off cam timing ...‎ - 6 posts - Nov 21, 2004

In the pic below, the green dots are where my dimples are at TDC, too far to the left, which is more advanced timing (I think). Tomorrow, I am going to move the timing gear one tooth on the chain to place the dimples where the pink dots are, I hope that 1 tooth keeps them close to the TDC mark.

((info from the web, about a car: for every 0.012" (0.3048 mm) that the head gasket is thicker, timing will be advanced 1 degree. )) My head gasket is .1mm (0.0004") thicker

Plastic side panels have a stock.
One of the problems with unstable idle was with the FOAM filter housing.


http://postimage.org/image/4jzxzbkzt/

Another problem when engine starts and could'not revs above 1200 rpm. In this case, multiple disassembly decompression improved the situation but the effect is repeated periodically.
I do not think that small changing the angle camshafts because the thickened gasket on 0.1mm be such a problem for stable idle.
Most likely there is a fluctuation of the mixture or poor electrical contact high-voltage or general parts.
Have you checked the manifold intake 8000B0357?

PS Sorry for my bad English)

OHR, I intend to agree with huskynoobee. It seems like the choke (cold start knob) is always working and as the bike warms up the choking effect takes over and kills the revs.

And 0.1mm in gasket size should have zero effect overall

We'll know in a few hours from now, gotta wake up a little and then I'll hit the garage.

Look at the picture above. Imagine the head getting higher (bigger head gasket). The right side of the pic is the front of the bike, the cam chain at the front doesn't move. Imagine the cam chain tensioner at the left side of the pic is able to flex and get longer to accept the head getting higher. Imagine then which way the sprocket moves in the pic: it moves in the direction of green dots to the pink dots! My cam timing is one tooth off from where is should be for a thicker head gasket. I should have made sure that the double dimple was biased to the right side of the TDC mark with a thicker head gasket, not to the left side.

A wrong setting for the TPS will retard or advance the timing.

Get thee to IBeat post haste.

Well, my morning started slow, my grand-daughter had spent the night and we were all busy with her antics, finally got her off home, and wife to work, and I got started. My cam chain is in pretty good shape, only 6 nibs showing when I pulled the CCT, had to drain the coolant, remove the water pump. I had the cams both out. With the piston at TDC and working from the left side of the bike, I lowered the drive sprocket and inched the chain one position back so that the sprocket would move one position forward. Stuck the water pump shaft back in and walked to the other side and the double dimple had moved so far I could barely see it! I almost had a heart attack! Until I figured out that I must have jumped a tooth down on the crankshaft when I lowered the chain. I went back to the left side of the bike and proceeded to keep MUCH tension on the chain as I backed it up about 4 positions to get to where I wanted to be (see pic below)! I then used dfeckels cam timing procedure, and buttoned the bike all up. When I started it, I knew.......I had my old bike back! It leapt to a 1900 RPM idle and held it, just like it has for 2 years now. Took it for 2 rides and I have to say I lost 1-2 HP on top, but I quit counting those, I just want it to run reliably. The head gasket fixed the water seepage problem, as I have gotten it hot several times and am always able to get it to start, no matter the time spent sitting.

I have to say, when I saw the position of the double dimple when I got the sprocket moved one tooth, I was a little disconcerted. I thought, man, that's a large amount to be off the mark, but it turns out, it gets me back to the bike I had so I will not argue with it! I had messed with my throttle stop and mix screw so much, but I just got the throttle stop back to 5 threads showing and the air screw 3 turns out and the bike went right to my 1900 idle, amazing!

Even if the car amount you quoted is correct (0.3048mm -> 1 degree) the difference in your head gasket would easily be taken up in the tensioner. If not, it would theoretically be a difference of 1/3 of a degree. Considering a 36 tooth sprocket, that's 10 degrees per tooth. A mistake in procedure to set the timing would seem more likely than needing make a change for a .1mm thicker gasket.

Regardless, good to hear you're back in business!

The car numbers I quoted were only an example, it definitely helped me to understand the issue.

I agree that the increase in head height is easily taken up by the slack in the trailing, backside of the cam chain, the issue for me was, when the backside of the chain tightens a little to accommodate the taller stack, what does that do to the sprocket....it rotates it to the right, thus making the correct spot for my mark to be to the right of the TDC mark.