Restoring 2011 Husky TE250

New TXC ECU. This is a part I am excited about. I hope it clears flat spot out of closed throttle that I understand is common for TEs and in general improve drivebilility
In prep for new ECU am baselining my system, injector and induction cleaned, temp sensor new and white, spark plug new, throttle body and butterfly cleaned, cleaned air filter, new exhaust.
I am toying with redo of fuel pump assembly but this perhaps can wait. I want to wrap it up before weekend to go riding with friends. Still fork jobs needs to be done.

Got one of that... maybe that's why my ECU number doesn't match the frame VIN.

Its most likely default VIN number. In general one should be able to write actual VIN using service tool. I do not know how mikuni tool is set up to do that though. I need that cable and software

I hang exhaust yesterday and pull down one fork leg. I have to address thermal insulation for midpipe. I think I am going to go with 2010 Husky 510 SS shield is avaliable from OEM. I like carbon fiber option Husky used to sell, but I am not shelling 100 bucks for it... Pipe looks really nice, super light but do looks fragile. Let's see how it holds up.

Fork Seal Job:
Did one fork today. Wife make me grill some pork for dinner and was dark before I knew it. Messy job, try to keep work area clean and free from outside grime. I use contractor paper for lining of work surface. Another thing I do is to soak new seals in oil for couple of days.


Took me few minutes to come up with seal driver design and making it. I settled for 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe that I hot formed to fork tube outside diameter. Important is to chamfer inside of contact surface so seal lip is not stressed.

Here is Moskal doing fork seals the right way. I am adding grease to space between seal proper and dust seal the way he recommends. I want that driver kit he has some day.... Moskals are safety lacking by design, Do wear good gloves around solvents and strap that bike to a stand.


View: https://youtu.be/okUJd0Nru3M

I changed the fork oil a few weeks ago to Bel Ray 5wt @120mm oil level. Huge difference. I weigh 160 and as recommended years ago that is like magic. Gone is the harsh mid stroke and jackhammer on washboard roads. Do yourself a favor even if you just put 7.5 in and put 5wt in.
Are you looking for this? http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2011/2011_WSM_TC-TXC-TE_250-310.pdf
Or perhaps this? http://www.dualsportbc.com/photogallery/data/906/1manual_2011_te_tc_txc_250-310.pdf
Suspension info was found here. http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/showthread.php?t=86452

There is 27 degree Celcius outside in this very moment down here. I wonder what was ambient when you were riding last on 7.5 weight oil. I would assume at least 10 degrees C less or even more cooler.
I have bottle of Motul 5 weight sitting on my shelve, that is waiting for Kawi fork job, but I just spent 20 bucks to get bottle of PJ 7.5 Weight delivered. Economy call is simple. What was bought needs to be used. I will try 5 weight if I am not happy with suspension and observing symptoms you guys describe.
For two fuel tanks worth of riding I was able to do before benching the bike I found suspension on the soft side. Front was busy at highway speed. That might be due to low level in left fork due to prolonged leaking. I will see what baseline is as new before messing with it.

Potential discrepancy for torque on front axle pinch bolt. VTM page 359 calls for 10.4 Nm. Those are M8x1.25 bolts not M6. What do you guys think?

Electrical Work: Making durable harness,
Blinkers

Starter solenoid area


Running to close to exhaust , Mickey mouse fix by PO



Good ole duct tape for thermal insulation then corrugated loom


Finished routing of left side

That is the correct torque. 7.7lbs. I recently had one start twisting apart at that low torque setting and replaced with some better shouldered bolts from my local ace hardware. I thought the same thing when I read the manual. The bolts husky used are pretty sub par when it comes to quality. I have replaced a fair amount due to the threads shearing off too when trying to set them to their proper torque. Fortunately my ace hardware has a nice selection of metric fasteners. This was my axle pinch bolt that started twisting apart. I could feel something wasn't right when tightening it and I got lucky I was able to remove it without it snapping. New pinch bolts.

I am not buying Ford. Standard torque for M8 bolts per manual is twice that. Around 22 Nm. The same bolts hold fork tubes BTW.
How you could stretch M8 bolt with 10 Nm the way picture shows beats me, what was diameter of the bolt?.. 10 Nm is a standard torque in manual for M6 bolts.

The bolts aren't that strong that husky used. I thought I had stripped out the aluminum in the fork leg at first. You would think that the steel bolt would be stronger than the aluminum, but in these m6 bolts, that doesn't seem to be the case. That's an m6 bolt for the axle pinch bolts that twisted like that. Funny enough, that was the last bolt out of the four that I was torquing down when that twisted. You are correct, the fork tubes are held on with m8's. Unfortunately these bolts are hit and miss with there quality. Thinking back, m6 bolts are the only bolts(except the m8 bolt that holds the muffler on) that I've had that have stripped or twisted like this one. Is your manual the same as this? I'm pretty anal when it comes to torquing my bolts to spec as you can see.

We are talking pass each other Ford, but we are almost there. Look at the picture I posted showing vernier calipers. This is M8 bolt that I have in KYB fork for axle fastening, yet 2011 TE250 manual I have on pen drive calls for torque for M6 bolt, 10.4 Nm
Therefore I am calling this out as potentially incorrect. .. I didn't wait, torqued it higher , if it looks like duck... ;-)

Tip for torquing, make sure threads both male and female are in perfect condition, CLEAN and lubed as required.

I just ordered parts to make Ibeat cable. I have ordered
VAG-KKL-OBD2-OBDII-USB interface cable for 10 bucks shipped and 2 male AMP Econoseal 6 pin connectors to plug into bikes female connector. Both were 18 bucks with shipping. I ordered 2 because my protective cover is missing. I will make cover from spare connection body....

Late evening delivery, more parts arriving with KTM packaging and under their numbering system. Good omen. Fender made in Italy and side panel in Portugal.

KTM packaging

All dressed up and nowhere to go :-)



Bubba marks almost erased. Good progress so far, but hit with delays, looks like one week slide...

Deliveries continue, got right body panel from expensive guy. I think it was twice price of the left panel, but heck it was in stocks and I wanted it. Oil filter three pack continue to be missing,... I think is lost.
Got vag cable, second day WOW, that was fast. I hear ibeat works on 32bit comps, dig out ole Sony comp from the storage. Poor thing thought it is 2005 but fired right up. I believe it was last used in 2013 as New York reload. Good one Sony, it has to be at least 12 years old. Boomer, driver for vag interface didn't load automatically from the disk, to late today to troubleshoot. I will download Ibeat tomorrow and make thing run,
Continued with harness work today, did rear stop light switch and temp sensor/TPS combo. Did some general bike cleaning, it's going to be awesome...

If you only ride in sand you can use the 7.5wt. 5wt is better all around though.

BTW, do NOT use an impact wrench on that flywheel bolt. Use a torgue wrench,

Just make sure it is tight a little past spec. Get the flywheel holder from ZipTY Racing.

Previous owner tightened the crap out of them? Or even the factory!

My bike had the 5mm cam cap bolts so tight i needed breaker bar to get them loose and they took one of the head threads with them!