Rim lock or not?

mousses maybe ?

I always run 2 bead locks and 18 to 20 psi even on my 125 .Did not get a single rear flat all year only one front flat it also had 18psi and 1 bead lock.Also run ultra heavy dudy tubes.As for tuff tires i have run the following
Dunlop desert great tire can keep going when flat but cost alot
Pirelli MT 18 HD also great tire wears out fast but you can still keep going when flat
Maxxis Desert is what i run most of the time Cheap and last forever very few flats
BUT when you get a flat it is very hard to keep it on the rim
But for the price and the fact they last and i only get a flat ever few years i take the chance.Did Vegas to Reno last year in 4 stroke pro class and one tire went the distance and looked good at the finish

Ajax interesting,,, one of the Euros I know (former It trophy team and Dakar guy) said the same using the FIM tires run @ 18 psi , 1.2 bar, in both tires with UHD tubes,,,,or they used the mousses, most preferred UHD tubes at higher pressures. Dang you dez guys run from another page!!
Me on the trail usually 12 in the front and 10 or even single digit in the rear,,at the moment with Michelin UHD and Michelin S12s. I may try M12s for the wickenburg enduro. any suggestions I want good rock traction without a tire that digs too much (trenches)into the sandy stuff like my 403/404 Bridge combo (shelved). You guys all may think I am nuts but I may rum a fat FIM 140/80 rear again (OEM TXC style) low knobs but that thing floated over the sand and got good traction on loose climbs. I will see the Italian this coming weekend and ask his opinion as well .

stop this was a rim lock thread,,which reminds me my shraeders are both pulling a bit need to drop air loosen the rim locks and slip the tire/tube back to straighten the valves F and R. thats with one rim lock each and tight but still get a little tire slippage after a while.

actually it was really no big deal on the front flat, just had to watch out for any rock edges jutting out from the desert. Didn't work so well in the single track type stuff, but on the fire roads getting out of the desert it was no big deal. Out of a group of 9 or so, Jimmy Lewis was the only one I wasn't going to pass and the rest of the group had no idea the front was toast. I did spit out the rubber rim tape though after about 3 miles of a flat.

Much like cars, a rear flat is typically much more dangerous then a front flat I have found, dirt or street.

I had no problem running 8 miles after a front valve stem seperated from the tube while using the factory supplies OEM Michelin Enduro III on the TE with the factory supplied (one) rim lock. I did keep my speed to less than 20 mph and all 8 miles were offroad in a sandy environment. The rim strip did snap and peeled off also.

OK so I want to do 2 rim locks but have only one hole. Do I just drill out a second one for the valve and use the valve hole for the second lock or there is some kind of a tool to do it?

I used the valve stem hole for the second rim lock because it was 180 degrees opposite the factory one, then just drilled a hole half way between the two locks, real easy to do. I centre punched a hole between two spokes dead center of the rim, used a 1\8 for a pilot hole then duplicated the valve stem hole size (can't remember exact size offhand).