TE/TC Robertaccio TX300

less = more. aiming to keep this thing minimalistic. I just added some weight....mousses with mousse lube a GT216AA 90/100-21 and a Maxxis EN, I don't like adding weight especially unsprung weight...I guess I will need Ti fasteners for my sprocket and brake discs......
PS the spoke next to the rim lock does get loose check your spokes on a regular basis, which should be the norm for all all the time.

I just circulated the inntertube, and got re-wound up about all the self proclaimed expert MXGP/Enduro GP/Extreme Enduro professional tuners out there that slag the Mikuni TMX38 as a pezzo di merda carb......and say to toss it...many tossing it before even riding the machine.....silly stuff.
.to me y'all are just making yourselves look like fools......all the factory KTM and Husky guys use the Mikuni (for now, soon TPI).....and incidentally my 2001 YZ125 uses it along with many years of YZ125s that won best 125 for many years in a row with a TMX38 installed.
The carb can be tuned to work fine--its a carburetor developed and manufactured by Mikuni one of the 2 premier Japanese induction engineering firms in the world.-the back yard tuners are simply incapable of tuning..or don't have enough patience to do local/personal/temp/altitude R&D....otherwise any intertube backyard tuner could join a team and be Jarvis's, Walker's, Nambotin's et al mechanic/tuner.
That's My tuppence on the Mikuni TMX38 carburetor, personally I let James do the R&D time and simply rode his coat tails, his set up is IMHO very very close but seems to always be on the safe side (which is good). My exhaust end is mostly dry but still in the black. I may get a bit better with more closely monitored testing, if Im not too busy loving and riding the crap out of this thing. Also 60:1 with synth 2T oil=cooler chamber temp and more accurate by the book chart jetting, also Im sure lack of ethanol in the gas helps as well.

I'm with you on the carb....works just fine...I ran the stock mikuni on all my red bikes and so did halls...havnt touched the jetting on my 17 tc 250... Just leaned it one clip on the needle this last weekend ..no fouled plugs.. Tiny bit of black sludge not much... Seems just fine as always...lots of jetting whiners and perfectionist who probably don't even need 25 horsepower to be happy... Mikuni is fine..crappy cheap reeds work fine but would rather see a vforce reed cage stock...

Rob, what setting are you using for the jet kit 0-4000 or 2-7000ft ?

I'm not sure. Its the way I picked bike up from halls. The extra carb parts were in the blue husky folder. Don't think they touched anything. Been 70 degrees and was running fat. Leaned it one clip (raised clip dropped needle) now running great again...never touched nothing... Super strong engine...probably the best I've ever had...still a small handful...even with flywheel weight and map wire disconnected. But.won't stall and wheelies when you want and third gear dead start...carb is fine in my book... If the mikuni was junk Halls guys would not have left it on the old red 144...I do realize some guys are super fussy about jetting...if I'm not blowing smoke or getting muffler sludge and my plug is tan...and my bike idles fine and wheelies in forth gear...hec I'm happy!

2-7k we ride 90% up in the 4k region, whether local, up near Hesperia or south in Tecate. I have ridden with this altitude jet set at sea level as well, just need to think about when riding it.
Plus we have heat now so leaner is fine.

Again I stress the biggest issue I found was how high the float level was from the factory*, a couple degrees of side tilt and fuel poured out the standpipe overflow. I eyeballed it so that I could just see the mold seam of the float at the base plane of the carb, JD Jetting confirmed my setting as being in the money zone for float level.

*reason (possible) KTM/Husky buys lots (not many but Lots of meaning/boxes/pallets) of TMX38 carbs all are Mikuni OEM set at carb level base standard position. Mattighofen installs them onto our machines and they are now at the bike tilted nose down to mount position, the float height becomes too high with the tilt and fuel is very close to the standpipe drain as well. That's my thought on it. I still believe this is the issue with these carbs, and all the intertube "experts" are going crazy playing jet master, all the while fuel level in bowl is all messed up from the start.

With the lower float height, JD jet set at the chart for trail riding* at altitude# (leaner* and leaner#). You will note he has 2 charts now 1 for open fast dez type (rich side) and 2 for slower tighter enduro type (lean side, my setting) Along with his altitude boxes in the chart. With James remember he does lots of time in R&D but from experience he keeps things on the safe side meaning rich is safer, he doesn't want to send out info that puts you in the lean-danger zone along with not knowing what fuel, oil and what mix everyone uses. So he errs to the safe side, meaning with more local in depth tuning you can get it even cleaner burning.

Just remembered I have my folder with me PTKTOOMER----
JD JDK028 2017 KTM300 XC XCW EXC
per chart
technical and trail
2-7k feet
30P
RED-3
410M
1.75 AS (I have moved it to 2 and back in to 1.5 for testing, its back at 1.75)

Float height with seam just visible at carb base (which is at least few mm lower than stock)

next sesh will have my Vforce 4 in the equation.
Im not going intertube crazy on that stuff either, but truth is the reed valve is a check valve and in static position it should have the pedals closed, I know that the downward piston transfer stroke pressure wave will mechanically seal them the same way the upward piston crankcase vacuum opens them, but mine did have slightly unsealed pedals in the OEM cage- just for FYI.
Fletch and others, So my point is.......probably a good idea to go with the Moto Tassinari 4 Force 4 cage for a simple plug and play replacement or if you like Boyesen stuff go the Rad Valve route.

rode today Vorce 4 and Rekluse Core EXP 3.0......... this bike is sooooo good now temps mid to high 80s dry as a bone.

Hot, humid and wet around here. It's Boyeson country around here too. Tryals Shop is a development partner with them for trials bike and their rep just did a Rad Valve conversion on a friend's Beta 300RR. Friend loves it! My '16 KTM 200 XC-W came with a Rad Valve stock... the only KTM 2T that had it. If I get a new TE150, I might go Rad Valve instead of V-Force.

I sat out the D4 Sprint Enduro today, because promoter didn't get sections marked. A few of us had to come in and get it together Saturday. I rode it multiple times in the end, so decided not to race. I'm glad we saved it from being cancelled!

I need to make a slight adjustment to my Rekluse the gearbox feel a little notchy and its hard to hit neutral, all else is super good.
Today was truly the first day I really let the ponies out of the stable, I hit it very hard today, not for a long time but a random times and sections throughout the day, cant really explain but I hammered the thing hard. the crazier and harder I ride it the better it works. After riding the 125 its super good to jump onto the 3 hundo.

Up front and in your face she sits 2017 TX300
the trail bike tide is changing 4 2T and 1 4T 2xKato 200s, 1xBeta300,1xHusky300,1xkato350F

Just rode at McCain for the first time with the jd jetting in. Throttle response was super crisp and instant. Haven't looked at the plug yet but it seems too lean. When you close the throttle the bike runs on. Since it's off the main jet at that point, would I be looking to change the needle position or pilot jet?

use the chart. be sure about that float height thing too. the screw adjustment , main jet and the pilot per the chart remember altitude and heat and we are trail riding not the desert chart.
if its lean after all that I would do those 1/2 increments on the needle swapping that spacer washer from over to under clip to raise the needle a 1/2 spot. Also the synth oil at 60:1 is the way to go as well as using an OEM heat range BR7EIX iridium plug , PS as I mentioned my reeds were lifted from the cage and with the V4 set it seems to run better but in my case I did more than one thing when I did the reeds.

Yep. I ran the same set-up as you (2-7000) trail. One thing I do is run my idle pretty high to help prevent stalling when I squirrel out in the technical stuff. That might have something to do with it.

higher the slide more air when you snap the slide closed (it stays up)... get your slide down and find a nice mix screw idle
these things dont stall easy

Next thing, maintenance and build for Tecate enduro. I am going to put on my flexxbars, when we get closer I have new shinko fatty and will have a new FIM rear...maybe splurge for a new Michelin. will also install my protaper pillow tops (very personal choice) need to see how that ODI screw on set up plays into that. not much else to do. except try to get motivated to exercise more. and I guess the 100s mc nat is a must, and I do have a pc 296 s/a muffler on the way......

Went to pala today(blew a fork seal -) installed the blue(richer) needle and richened up the air screw-that seems to have cured my problems. Btw, picked up your old Flexx bars from Brian. Gonna try those out for Tecate.