TE/TC Robertaccio's TE300 "Bullet Proof Bling" Thread........

I have been pretty happy with a MX51 rear on my 310 with a Motoz front. Seems like a solid combo/

Just ordered my requisit (sp) Alloy ZipTy Racing Rear Brake Reservior Extender along with the ZTR Blu anodized reservior cap, will install Motul RBF660 into system and will have Red EBC carbon X pads on standby. That is my usual set up.

You may want to check your Throttle Cable. KTM's have been known to not have secure ends on the cable, so if a branch catches it the bike can turn into a wild ride. Motion Pro makes a replacement cable.

I will safety wire it in place

The 2014 Husqvarna TE300 has a threaded in throttle cable at the carb, the cable will not pull out from the carbby, also the main jet and jet needle cab be changed without removing the carb, just by twisting it in the manifolds.

FMF Gnarly installed PC2 installed CF pipe guard installed.

You forgot the XF coolant and drop your tranny oil for M1 0W40. The only tire that can beat the MX51 in the desert is the GT 216 Fat Tyre and it's great in the mud and slime too.

^I think he did mention something about coolant, maybe evans? is it worthwhile with the Mobil 1 oil for the tranny really Tinken being full syn? have a fella close to my place that sells it reasonably cheap, might try it in the old husky 2Ts I got mx51s seem good to me so far

Its close to ATF in viscosity when cold, but won't thin like ATF when hot, plus has strong detergents to keep the plates clean. Robert uses our coolant, I was just poking at him.

Tinken, I just got a set of Blu CV4 hoses unused from the Welshman, those plus my unopened 1/2 gal container of ZipTy XF Coolant along with my new set of swiss cheesed Enduro Engineering rad guards = cooling system bullet Proof!!

(PS GT216 is the 140/80-18 FIM pattern sneaker, I have a used same pattern Pirelli Scorpion Pro FIM with a matching broken in mousse for this weekends technical adventure, note also the FIM fat bodied meats work good in sand as well, they float up on top like a balloon tire). Time to scratch up my brand new rims on the moussey installer!!

as far as 2T trans fluid, I still subscribe to specifics, for this bike I will use Maxima products or factory sponsor BelRay products, I always used the Maxima light trans oil in the past.

Tinken, I looked at the online spring rates calculator (Race Tech) and they seem very stiff even for my tank like weight. I want springs as light as possible but able to dial in my correct sag numbers (that is the usual/only answer anyway). Any ideas for my weight nekkid @ 210 with gear ? 220-225?

The 216 tire works because of it's size, it has tall side walls that no one else has. It allows you to track in and out of deep ruts and rocks easily. Factory sponsor, (we are factory sponsor) or big name oil products doesn't mean anything to me. I race with what works, what is reliable. And when factory KTM guys fill their Maxima bottles with Rotella, you know they have similar views.
p.s. we always see the racers sipping on the energy drinks on the podiums, what do you believe they are filled with?

I would see Ty for that. The Race Tech calculator is a ballpark size for the average rider. Your racing style directly dictates your spring size and setup. The problem is that even if you were to order Eibach springs, until you put them on a digital scale like ours, you won't know what you are getting. I'd love to give you a cut and dry answer, but you will have to talk to Ty.

Answer, They are ALWAYS filled with KOOLAID

funny stuff, so i get my EE rad guards. they have so much HD alloy overkill and really are heavy D, so like my TXC ones i semi swiss cheese them....this time i weighed before and after for laughs..... 2lbs full package after safely drilling away some material weight of full package 1.75 lb one hamburger!!! 4oz of alloy chips gone.

Robert I use 20/50 motor oil in all my motorcycle trans For the last 5 years I use Lucas 20/50 semi syn or full syn My trans in the 125 is still original since 2006 and 2008 165 is still same trans I chance the clutch about every 2 years

so for me the 20/50 works great

continuing the thread, this is an important issue for those adding sillycone hoses. Mine are CV4. I will try to explain this.... OK at the top of cylinder connection on these and KTMs the hose is attached to the cylinder head with the barb fitting the hose goes up to a free floating metal hose barb that is inside the frame. With oem thinner hose the hose slides over the hose barb and slides up inside the cutout into the frame then the clamp is tightened leaving an extra length of hose to fill the gap between the metal barb and frame cutout. When installing the Silly hose its too wall thick to slide up into the frame, this leaves the metal hose barb banging around metal to metal on the cut out.
I cut @ 1/2 IN of OEM hose and slid it onto the hose barb then slide the silly blu hose onto the barb, this pushed the oem hose section up through the frame cut out as it was designed to do so the barb is snug and insulated from metal to metal chafing using the oem hose section. The blu sillycone butts to the end of the oem hose and is clamped over the barb and Rob is happy, husky is happy and so goes goes the bullet proof into the next phase.

I ffed up my first fastener...upper rhs rad mount screw from the ee guard kit. forgot to install the kitted spacer washer
screw got tight as it bottomed I stopped...realized the little spacer washer was not installed, so I went to remove the screw--carefully... and it snapped off. I will ride the thing as is this weekend and next week I will extract it.
I was the evening shift king of fastener removal some of our aircraft mod programs, so gotta go back to my A&P roots next week hope I can find and dig out my little kit of cobalt bits and high quality ez outs.
Installed swiss cheesed New Enduro Engineering Rad guards, installed (Dai the Welshman supplied) used EE slave cylinder guard, used EE shark fin with some swiss cheesing added to try and shave a little unsprung weight... only could logically do 4 holes so very minimal loss, that shark fin is tonnage heavy!. Lightly zip tied some wiring to secure some connectors "lightly" not cinched down just a light zip.

Haha, did we not have any shark fins left? Danny and I were building the shark fins for the Factory team the other day and I snapped a tap off in one of the carriers. The aluminum is hardened and then hardened with anodizing to the point it felt like tapping tool steel.

I tried to buy one from ol Danny, he said he had one and would call me back tomorrow ,that was three weeks ago. I ordered the factory Husaberg anodized blue one , had it in three days. Seems like not only hardened tool steel but hard to get .