I think this come into play with how someone has there carb set from the start. I dont think it would be a issue if it was set up sharp . I set mine up sharp @ sealevel and about 25 degrees out side , then rode at 4000 feet and 45 degrees, ran exactly the same.
Quick question -- How do you lean the Lectron out. My only hesitation about pulling the trigger really is the altitude compensation. I ride from about 3000' up to 9000' and frequently start rides around 5000, or 6000, and hit 8000' or 9000' -- what do I have to do to adjust the Lectron? Thanks fellas!!!
Must say in all my years The only thing I ever heard about the Lectron was how it was only good as a top end carb Others used to say it was untunable so what did I do ? I bought a old used one from Ebay that was used on Karts years ago My first venture with it was a complete failure as I couldnt even get the bike to even fire let alone start ! so removed it and threw it in the scrap pile lol Kept reading all the rave reviews here so decided to give it another try and I am so glad I did as its the best thing since sliced bread My older version is a bit of a pain to adjust the metering rod and has no ability to get 1/4 turn adjustments only full turns, has no adjustable power jet you have to change a jet ( mikuni vm I think I used) Cand even read what was etched on the metering rod as to identify it At the end of the day after a few hours of setting up I cannot believe how good the Lectron works and all the tales from old must of been from people who just couldnt be bothered to spend the time setting them up
The Lectron has a metering rod that is half round(like a needle in a standard carb), it has a flat side that needs to face the intake port.To lean it you turn the MR counter clock wise a1/4 turn or what ever at a time. It is also spring loaded so if you adjust 1/4 at a time and its not facing the intake you simply push it up and spin it to face the intake and it will lock back in place.very simple. Did last night on my wife's cr125 in about 3 or 4 minutes.
So -- similar to a needle in that you are essentially lowering the MR to lean it out [like raising the clip]? By turning the MR you are threading it either in or out -- so its not directly threaded right? Otherwise the orientation would only allow full turn increments? I'm just trying to figure out how much monkeying I'll have to do with this carb... its one of the primary reasons for me to switch. I am wondering if you set it at sea level and its good to 7000' -- maybe [logically] if you set it at 3000' it will be good to 10,000'? Any thoughts?
YES, think of turning the needle on a Lectron Counter clockwise (Leaner) like raising the clip on a conventional needle which lowers the needle in the carb. Don't know if every 1/4 click is equal to one slot on a regular needle, but same net effect. Lower the needle=leaner, raise up=richer. I don't think you're gonna have to monkey with it much at all, I haven't had to, but I am easy to please! I agree with Kevin when he said, ride it for a few rides, then adjust it if you feel you need to. For now, I see no reason to adjust mine.
The metering rod has a flat side, that side must always face the motor. This causes the laminar effect that forms low presser and draws the fuel from the bowl. The Rods flat side tapers in a path (not straight) to the end so the more you pull the throttle the more the opening is exposed and more fuel. It is the grind of the tapper on that rod that makes the low, mid and top and work. what we are essentially doing by turning the rod in and out is setting the ratio of furl rod to slide. So this really only effects the low end and into the mid slightly. Once you have it set so it runs crisp and idles right you are done. Like Tim reported above mine runs perfect everywhere. Seems very able to compensate for altitude, temperature and always seems to get the fueling right. This is because they have lots of hours designing the rod. Also the adjustable powerjet allows them to concentrate the rod on low to mid and the power jet takes it from there. It is a brilliant system in how stupid simple it is while working far better than the complex mess it replaces.
As others have explained there is a 1/4 turn push up and detent positioning part in the slide. The rod is threaded into this and all you do is thread the rod in (rich) or out (lean) in 1/4 turns and then push up on the rod and turn it 1/4 increments until the flat side is facing the carb again. It is super simple but you do have to take the slide out to do it. Once this is set you probably will never even look at the carb again other than to show your friends :>)
Great explanation. The other thing I remember Kevin saying is that due to the way the low pressure is created, the metering compensates for differences in air density (temp, altitude etc), because with thinner air less fuel can be lifted, leaning the mixture. Conversely as the air gets denser more fuel is lifted. Like you say so stupidly simple.
Yeah, he has a really cool story about the original designer who was a test pilot and was looking out the window at the laminar effect (mist from the wing) and got the idea. 40 years ago.
When I went to Colorado on my XR315 that had an Edelbrock Quicksilver (similar design and designed by same guy as Lectron), I was starting at 8k ft and leaned my needle 3 clicks (3/4 turn). I rode all the way to 13K ft with no blubbering. Well, I was blubbering at that altitude, but the bike wasn't. LOL
Thought I was having Lectron carb problems today in the CR125.Turns out I finally needed gas !Run's damn good with a full tank again. Took forever to run out.
I got my Lectron bolted on yesterday and was able to ride it up and down the street in front of my house before leaving for work. It fired up and idled right away, I had to drop the idle a bit. It blubbered a bit coming up onto the top end but otherwise ran well. Today after work I leaned out the needle 3/4 turn per Kelly's direction, it started first kick and it freaking rips. Power wheelies in 6th are cool. It really is kind of ridiculous how well it works. I was a bit worried about the bike losing the two stroke hit like Kellys 165 with that lame Doma pipe he raves about. Hehe, I am still running the stock pipe that works fine. I will try that Doma he loaned me though just to make him happy. I owe him that much, this carb rules. I was really happy with the JD kitted TMX but the Lectron tops it for me. My first trail test will be tomorrow, my brother and nephews are coming tomorrow so it should be a good test for the low end. I cant wait, have not had them on the trail for a few months. Later, P.s. The slotted head bolts suck, that is one nit pick. They should be allen head bolts IMHO. Luckily after the initial setup you shouldn't have to touch them much.
P.s. The slotted head bolts suck, that is one nit pick. They should be allen head bolts IMHO. Luckily after the initial setup you shouldn't have to touch them much Someone else thought that as well
Just head down to your local Ace and get some SS allen head bolts with the knurled sides so you can loosen with your fingers. I did this before I ever mounted mine. John's tapping them out to take a standard carb bolt is also a good idea.
Yeah I got the 36 for both bikes.Ended up going 1 turn leaner on the 250 and 1and a 1/2 leaner on the 125.I for get where I'm at on the power jet ,I just adjusted it until it felt right.
Walt can you please tell all what thread type the original screws are as I am riddled with man flu and cant be assed to go out in the garage to look for one lol That way I can grab a few for when the new Lectron arrives
