Its odd with a wet plug giving the impression of flooding the idle is fine. i'm also experiencing spooge coming out of the muffler and the muffler is almost new only fitted with Lectron. The FMF pipe is the one you supplied, and my TMX was not running this rich and felt a bit crisper on the low to mid revs.
Someone else had some issues and realized that they had forgot to face the metering rod the correct way after adjusting it. Just a thought
Thanks for the responses I leak tested the the engine before I put it back in so that's good. The carb fits good on the engine spigot side just bad on the air boot side. I'm going to go ahead and test for leaks at both boots just in case. I rebuilt the bike over the winter and everything was cleaned. The silencer has new packing and the pv tube was cleaned when I did the cover. I've been using Lucas oil at 32:1 for the last couple of seasons. The stock setup had a little bit of spooge but this is just a lot and is really wet. I'm not really worried about the spooge it just seemed like the plug and system was really wet. The plug is wet all over except for the very top of the insulator, tip and tang. The float isn't sticking or flooding as that would been obvious as I removed the carb everytime to adjust the rod. Unfortunately, the top of the carb sits right under the frame on the YZ so even adjusting the rod is a pain. Another thing I had a question on is that the tuning guide says to adjust in 1/4 turns but to me it seems you can adjust in any increment even 1/8 turn. As long as you can push up and adjust the rod so it faces the engine that it should work? It has a small window of play left/right so I'm not sure why you're limited to 1/4 turn. Maybe so it was easy to explain in the tuning guide? I may install the stock carb and see how it compares to the lectron. I waited before even starting the new engine until I had the lectron so I don't even have anything to compare it to.
This board doesn't have an edit button so please ignore my spelling mistakes =] I've comes to love that button
If that is the case then you need to continue to lean it out. Have you had to reduce the idle yet? I found that the closer to perfect that I got the more I had to reduce the idle setting. It still idles in gear with the autoclutch dragging so it isn't a fake lean idle reduction.
I went a whole 2 turns leaner and the revs picked up like you say. The spark plug its almost perfect it would appear i was being a little conservative with my leaning of the meter rod. idle rpm appears good too, and its definately more crisper when blipping the throttle. It might be running a little rich but thats fine for now. Next test will be the Power Jet.
I am leaning my out quite a bit it seems. Here is something I noticed too: I have been able to detect the richness on the bottom -- it sort of burbles at low throttle openings -- not as crisp. Additionally, when ripping it into the top end the bike will oscillate -- its very distinct like it is cutting out. At first I thought my powervalve was sticking so I took the cover off and am able to see it clearly open. Then I leaned it out a full turn and the bottom end cleaned up and the oscillation went away. I suppose its possible that I didn't have the needle completely perpendicular with the intake tract [it migh have not been facing the engine swuare] I suppose. Do you guys think a rich condition would cause the oscillation?
I just leaned mine out till I got a lean bog or it just quits when the throttle is whicked and ended up about 3/4 of a turn richer and was just about perfect Went way richer today trying to work out why my motor sounds so rough at a constant 1/8 throttle after a while riding around the road and it lessened it a bit but was still present so just went back to where I was and just decided not to ride around the road anymore
I remember when my bike was a 125 i had over loads and loads of over run it would hold rev out brilliantly like a 4-stroke 250. When the 165 was fitted i lost that over run and am wondering if it will return now that i've the Lectron and PJ to play with? boisedave, how many turns leaner are you running the meter rod and whats your PJ set too?
Hey Spud -- Right now I am about 1 1/2 turns leaner than it came stock. I am thinking of going another 1/2 turn leaner. Its so easy to do I think I am going to play with it till I get it where I think its perfect. My PJ is 2 turns open. Not sure yet on that but it seems ok to me. It takes less than 5 minutes to adjust the rod -- so I am going to try and get it perfect and then see how well it holds up. Its hard to really assess in the garage, but I get dirty looks doing top end runs in the neighborhood.
You wont get the top end of a 125 with the fatty Spud but if you find a ktm 200sx dep pipe you wont be far off, make mine HOWL
I've got loads of pipes including a full HGS system, an FMF pipe you made for me walt that i ran with a wr125 muffler, or another full system a 2009 cr125, so whats the best for over run? The 165 pulls harder then when it was a 125 i down geared bike when it was a 125 but i'm looking to up gear it a little. What is your recommended racing gearing for woodlands with long fire tracks now i've a Lectron?
You need the HGS for a 200SX or the DEP for the KTM 200SX. Both of those pipes will give you quite a bit more top end than the fatty. The HGS will cost you less bottom than the DEP but give up a little top. I think a 13X48 or 14X51 or 52 will make you miss the over rev a lot less. It will pull it just fine. If you are in really tight trees you might want to go up a tooth on rear in both of those.
Out of curiosity what rod do the huskys come with? The one I got for my YZ was a 3-1 and the PJ was set at .5T out.
