Can't wait for mine to arrive. Question though, any of the 300 owners that are running this, do you use a throttle cam? I've got one on mine to help keep it smooth through the mossy creeks other slimey goodness that MO harescrambles offer. Sounds like throttle pull is a bit more exaggerated with this carb, so I wasn't sure if I should swap the cam back out to stock or if the slower pull for the by half throttle should still be fine. If not, then I guess I'll report back on my findings in a couple weeks.
Finally some sense that everyone can and should understand.Thanks for that Vinduro.I've finally found my sweet spot at 3/4 but tried 1 turn out first then back in 1/2 turn next which both gave me slight lean and rich conditions. Dave
I've been waiting to post because my 360 developed starting issues and wanted to rule out the carb. Mission accomplished, I swapped the carb (36mm) on to my '09 250 (gnarly with stock silencer) and went for a ride yesterday and it worked great. I think i'm a little lean on the metering rod because it "bounces" a little at idle. Great power down low, almost stall proof as long as your moving. I was able to lug it up some hills in 2nd without clutching that would have normally required some lever work. Top end is great too and it seems to rev forever. I used a throttle/cable from my old bike ('00 kx250) with the elbow from the mikuni. It's about the right length to route properly and had enough free inner cable so I didn't need to trim the housing. I was considering a rekluse, but i think i'll try a race or two without one and see how it goes. First race is in a couple weeks and i'm excited.
Exactly what I found on my bike. Seems the sweet spot is now about 1/2 turn out. I do know that the carbs are coming a bit leaner stock than they did a couple months ago. So if somebody got one of the first ones here then they probably had to go as lean as a turn or turn and a 1/4 or so.
Yes it sounds about a 1/4 turn too lean. That is what mine was doing when lean. If a 1/4 turn too rich you will not need the choke to start and if you let idle too long the bike will be a bit blubbery off idle till you get it cleaned out.
These carbs should take nearly no adjustment or a 1/4 to a half turn here or there and then never need played with again. Mine has been on my 125, with stock pipe, my 125 with Doma and my 165 with 2 pipes and I have not touched it and it runs fantastic, way better than any jetted carb i have tried to get right. I suggest you bolt it on as delivered as they are now shipping a little leaner and then see if you need any sort of adjustment. I know us DB riders like to mess with stuff and feel free but i am seeing a lot more messing with these than needed. If your having to chase it all over I would look at everything else and see that the reeds, crank seals etc are all 100%. You should be able to set these carbs and move on.
Mine came today and it already has allen head screws for the slide top. I didn't see that change mentioned anywhere on here so I thought I'd make a note of it.
While I agree with what Kelly is saying to a degree I think its good that people are adjusting their settings and reporting back their findings . I had another little fiddle with mine yesterday as I was thinking how when I first jetted a PWK on my 165 it ran best with a pretty fat main jet so I adjusted the power jet out a whole turn on my 38mm so its now 2 1/2 turns out and much to my surprise gained a very noticeable usefull gain at the top end, plug chop does show its slightly richer but MY 165 liked the adjustment so im glad I keep testing, Think that will be it for now though as I cant see it getting any better than this BUT as I have another two pipes on the way that im going to test maybe its not !!!
My TMX ran best with a big main and a big pilot jet. I've not ridden my bike now that i've fitted the Lectron but will adjust to 2 1/2 turns out on the power jet and see what its like. Something both my former TMX and Lectron carbs do is when starting the bike cold i use choke for about 5-10 seconds, then the bike idles quite high revs (choke is off) and its only when it starts to warm the revs reduce by themselves. Its hard to discribe but a bit like an auto-choke on a car the revs stay high and when its warm the revs lower by themselves. Is this a personality of my bike, she's does need some affections before i ride her?
Yes, we are in continuous development with these carbs. I speced the allen heads for my customers. Motosportz has a special build with the trimmed down carbs, special settings, speced rod, new cable coming etc. We are right now working on and testing some other new and exciting things regarding these carbs. Will let that info out as we solidify things. Motosportz and Lectron are working closely and on some really cool stuff for the dirtbike side of their market. As for adjusting the rod there is no issue doing at and as we have all found from the jetting thread these 125/144/165 and various pipes add up to drastically different jetting for most of us. My point was they are coming a bit leaner initially from my feedback to them and now my recommended 1/2 turn leaner might not be necessary. By all means play with it, why not, it is simple and EZ and may yield results. Kevin from Lectron was getting some really odd calls and people with wild settings that were not working because that went 2 turns out not really knowing much about jetting etc. thats is. As for the adjustable main just here is some info. These come set 1 turn out. Can be turned out to 3 turns or so. this is the equivalent to 3.5-4 main jet sizes. I have found, like Johnnyboy that my 165 likes it opened up some. Also note that this adjustment mostly affects the half to wide open throttle. It is not as RPM dependent as i thought but more opening dependent. I had some long conversations about this with them after finding my bike seemed to have more roll on power up hills when in tall gears and lugging but with wide throttle openings. I did not think it would affect this much as i thought it was more RPM dependent but Lectron tells me it is more throttle opening dependent. Working on a bunch of stuff with them. Has been a great two way conversation and we are working on some cool things for the near future. These guys are great to deal with, very responsive to input and changes (hence the allen heads) and like i said more than willing to improve the product, settings and work on new ideas for the future as I give input. This has been a great partnership.
I dont think that is uncommon for people riding in colder temps. Sounds about like my routine. I do play with my idle settings some during a ride. It is stupid EZ on this carb and we ride a ton of steep stuff so at times are idling for a long time on big down hills.
Kelly Has anyone asked for the choke lever assembly ? I pulled the one from my old 36 much to my mates disgust (perhaps he will pay for it soon lol) and swapped them over, Im sure I read somwhere the body needed modifying but I found it a straight swap and makes life just a little bit easier and normal to use, so for me personaly I think its a worthwhile mod
Yes that is one of the items we are addressing. There is a cable actuated on available now if needed.
Installed and annoyed the neighbors. A good day all around haha. Side note, when I first put it in and went up the street it was boggy/flat in the low to mid area. I went a 1/2 turn richer and it seems much better now. I made no changes between opening the box and installing the carb btw. I'll play with it more when I get out to an actual riding area. Super easy to adjust though. Except when the needle doesn't want to go back into its hole when putting back together.
Okay a little update here, so today I got my carb from lectron along with a new throttle and cable which I had to use because the stock one was too short. Anyways I ran into a couple of snags which are 1 the carb seems just a tad smaller in diameter compared to my keihin and I have to get some stronger hose clamps for the intake boots on both sides of the carb so I can snug the boots up really good onto the carb but The factory ones had to work for me today because I didn't have much time. And 2, I'm having the same issue I had even with my keihin, my bike starts up and runs great until it gets hot then it just instantly dies, I'm usually able to start it back up after a minute of cooling down but it does the same thing and quits after a minute, so I pull the spark plug out and it's black and dry, and like I said, it does this with my old carb too. I think it may be my coil or wire or bad ground but I have not checked yet. Other than those two issues the bike runs fantastic and has excellent throttle response and great power! I absolutely love the carb so far. Any insight to my dry black spark plug would be great.
If you ahve the same symptoms with two carbs it is something else. Check your coil ground or your coil itself.
Do you happen to know how to check the coil and what ohm readings I should be seeing? It's a 2007 SMR 510.
Mine just arrived with machine heads on top of the carb and flat heads on the clear float bowl. Looks sano to me.
Clean the frame ignition ground mount. Next check your venting to carb and gas tank. Check for trash in petcock. Sometimes a sliver of plastic will get left in tank and get sucked into petcock.
I'll have to check that ground, as for the petcock I know that's okay, that's the first thing I checked. I still need to find out how to check the coil and at what ohm it should be at.
