Round two of the "other" carb types - Lectron

Has there been a dyno comparison chart uploaded comparing the Lectron to the stock carb with RM needle for HP, torque & AF ratio? I've gone through the pages but may have missed it.

Got mine dialed in now,(09 300) went another 3/4 lean for a total of 1 1/4 I think Also my power jet was out 1 1/2, so turned that back 1/4 also. Now this thing screams!!! Can't wait for next weekend's HS. Not only is it buttery smooth but the revs pick up sooo nice & you can still stay a gear or two high to tractor thru whatever is in your way. Don't even feel the need to try another 1/4 leaner, so thanks again all.

Amen brother, I agree especially with the gear higher. Question for anyone, is there a trick to getting the slide back in place without having to stick a finger in and guide the needle in place? Just wandering if I was missing something.
Dave

Just giggle the slide up and down, it can be a pain but mine always drops in unlike the older version as that was a fight evert time.

Collapse the spring a little to take the tension off the needle and they slide in easier

Be sure not to unseat the needle as it will run rich off idle. If you push down when installing the needle holder may hang on edge of slide. It happened a couple times to me before I figured it out.

Me too!!!

I thought I was loosing my mind. These carbs are super sensitive to the needle position -- I now only move forward if the needle slides in smooth, otherewise I am not confident its set correctly.

Another note too -- Last ride or two -- carb worked great, but seemed a tad rich. Here is the drill I went to get a clean running carb:

Leaned out the needle in 1/2 turn increments until the carb would bog when I grabbed a handful of throttle [just did this on the stand]. Took it another 1/2 turn and [shockingly] it just acted a bit leaner. You know its getting leaner because you can slow the idle down.

So -- with the needle 1/2 turn too lean; I went back a quarter turn richer. This cured the bog and was lean as I could get it with still a crisp pull. This worked great for me. My bike doesn't like the power jet. I have it open only about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Any more than that and it sputters. Just FYI.

Update on my review. After 2 enduros, a team race in frame deep mud, and a rocky Missouri harescramble, I've got probably 10-15 hours with the 38mm lectron on the wr300. It took some getting used to, but a change from 13/48 to 14/48 gearing was partly at fault. Part of my problems getting used to it was the sections I used to click into third and grunt through. With the lectron it wanted to climb up the revs making it a bear in the tight stuff. The taller gearing made that worse as now that 3rd gear through rough creek beds turned into too fast for my suspension to keep smooth. Now that I've adapted to it, it really is an amazing setup. A bit wild, yes, but it's completely manageable with a bit more finesse. I'm holding onto my PWK to put back on for when I go to sell it for a new 300 (or I might just say damn the contingency and keep this one forever). The Lectron is just that good.

Fuel mileage, I maintain is no better than before in my application. I don't think it's any worse than what a proper jetting would be, but I do need to pit around the hour mark of a harescramble to add a gallon of go juice. And on the enduros I have been topping of at all available gas stops.

I'm in Utah for work and brought my bike with me. It's about 900' where I usually ride in TN. I'm in Moab and only had to adjust the powerjet a 1/4 turn leaner. Carb is working perfect. There were a few times where I should have stalled but the engine would keep on lugging.

Wow, mine is really really good. Had a HS yesterday & it did everything it was supposed to. Still gonna go back through the steps again, I may be a 1/4 lean. Now my only problem is if I sell the bike, do I leave it on??

That's why my Keihin is setting on the shelf. If the time comes that I sell the bike the Lectron will go on my next bike. My dealer was telling me he wanted to try one, but I won't even pull it off to try on my brother's WR125, because I don't want to risk having to ride mine without it again.

Question for you guys. I have mine set up and it runs good, but is spooging a little more than usual and my fuel consumption is WAY more than my carb'd counterparts. I am on a 300 Berg and they are on 300GG. I have a 36mm Lectron.

Example, this last weekend at Hatfield's Buff Mtn, I used 1.4 gallons at fill up at lunch where as my buddies on GG300's were taking 1.0 or 1.1.
I still need to pull the plug and look at it, but seems to be a little rich, but pulls good. I need to call Kevin and see how I can dial it in a little better as I should not be using that much more fuel. We are all riding the same pace in a group so throttle usage is similar.

Second day I took 1.7 gal and they took about 1.3, so consistent difference in fuel consumption for the 2 days. Again the bike runs good, pulls good just has a little flat spot in the mid to top transition that "seems" very much like when the plug is loaded up from alot of very small throttle use and then you have to "clean" the plug out when you hit the open stuff.....

The only adjustment I have made since I got the carb is, after the first 4 hours, I leaned the needle 3 clicks (3/4 of a turn) cause it was spoogin like a mo fo as delivered. Ran great, just was really rich. I mean I was getting spooge out of the pipe/silencer connector area. Since leaning the needle 3 clicks, that has subsided to a minimum and now I just get some out of the can which is ~normal I guess even with a properly jetted carb. I am wondering if maybe my Top end adjustment (external screw adjuster) is too rich and that could be causing the spooge when I do go WFO and and that nid to top "transition" is due to the top end being set too rich.

I got 31MPG with the Lectron at China Hat ISDE last weekend