Sachs Shock Rebuild Kit (is there one?)

Discussion in 'General (Main)' started by robertaccio, May 31, 2012.

  1. Dirtdame Administrator

    Location:
    Rock Springs Wy
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    11 WR300,13 WR125,18 FE501
    Other Motorcycles:
    17 Beta Xtrainer
    I'm afraid you'll have to blow it out of there from behind the piston. You can order a bladder cap that replaces the piston and cap for your shock. This will help the shock dampening work better, and will also make it a lot easier to service the shock in the future. W.E.R. carries them and they run about 70 dollars. I have one on my TE450, and I'll probably get one for my WR300 also.
  2. Aaron8 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Thanks for your response. Believe it or not, I tried that earlier. And just now again. No go, sadly.

    Yes I do have a bike pump for the re-assembly sequence. And I've found a local shop for the final nitrogen charge. I've been scouring the interwebs looking at Sachs rebuilds. Everyone seems to get their pistons out without mention of how they've done it.:confused:
  3. Aaron8 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Thanks Dirtdame. Yes I've run across the bladder upgrade in my searches. I'll look into that this week!

    Sooo, blow out the piston how? Do you mean through the clicker port, as blakelpd5 suggested? Do you have another method? Thanks all for your responses. Much appreciated!
  4. PC. Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Beaverton, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    CR165 & CR144
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM500
    To get the piston out seal the bottom edge of the shock body (I use a rubber pad) and blow compressed air into the reservoir where the compression knob was. Remove the knob and valving behind the knob if you haven't already done so. Also, be aware the piston will shoot out fast, so blow it into something soft.
  5. dartyppyt Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Illinois
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    17 TE 150, 82CR 500
    Other Motorcycles:
    82 125,250,430&500 79 390 83 250
    PC, meaning so it doesn't give you a black eye!
  6. steadydirt Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ontario
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 2002 wr 250 1994 wxe 250
    Other Motorcycles:
    fj 1100 cb500 cb350 rt 200 xs 650
    Maybe brakeclean the surface, make sure it is dry and hot glue[you know the sticky craft stuff] a bolt or something similar on the face of the piston- might hold enough after cooling for a moment to put the assembly out?
  7. Blakelpd5 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Tigard, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    09 WRWB165
    Other Motorcycles:
    08 CRF450R, 1980 Suzuki Wetbike
    I like the idea of hot-gluing something to the bottom of the piston to get it out, however, I'd be concerned about using brake cleaner around the O-rings on the piston. I don't think brake cleaner & an O-ring under high pressure go together real well..
  8. Aaron8 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Thanks so much for your response. It's worth a try. :thumbsup: I'll be careful with the solvent!
  9. Aaron8 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    So I tried the glue method. I just used what I had at the tool bench. Maybe with the correct glue it would have worked.

    So I removed the high speed clicker knob, and the cap that holds the low speed screw assembly. Then I removed the entire low speed assy from the cap, and screwed the cap back in.

    This is similar to what Blakelpd5 did, but I didn't remove the low speed needle/screw from it's holder. Same idea, though.

    Stuck a needle style bicycle pump adapter (like you fill basketballs with) through a rubber stopper for the "air fill" port I created in the clicker cap. I got lucky here-the stopper was perfectly shaped for a nearly air tight seal.

    Strangely enough, the open end of the shock body was the hardest part to seal! After many failed attempts, what finally worked was some thick-ply compactor bag plastic, lots of tape, and a strong hand to cover all that!

    With my sons help, the bicycle pump, and a lot of swearing, that piston finally came out. Got it back together, got a nitrogen charge for $5 on a Sunday (thanks AS RACING Santa Clarita, CA!!!), and it's back on the 310.

    Thanks everyone for your help. :cheers:
    Blakelpd5 likes this.
  10. Brian Scott Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Bainbridge Island, Washington State
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '11 WR 300
    Other Motorcycles:
    '01 CR 500R
    Hi everyone. I came across this thread while searching for tips on reassembling the shock. Removing the reservoir/diaphragm/piston can be accomplished quite easily even if it's pushed all the way down, but only after the oil is drained and the fork rod assembly is removed. Insert long needle nose pliers (keep them closed) until the tip touches the face of the piston, then open them until the backside of each tang touches the side of the piston. Use two hands to keep the pliers open; one hand for each handle, and exert a lot of outward force to keep them open and to generate enough friction between their tips and the side of the diaphragm to allow you to slowly and carefully pull the diagraph upward. You'll hear a slight sucking noise as the diaphragm moves upward. If your needle nose pliers are too short, then add a little bit of oil into the shock, re-insert the fork rod assembly and move it down a few inches slowly to position it, then push it down quickly so that it briefly compresses the air between the valve assembly and the reservoir/diaphragm/piston thus pushing it upward enough to allow you to reach it w/the pliers. This methods works like a champ for me.