Save 3.5lbs. by making a lighter battery for your bike!

ordered the 2.5 just now, his prices are dropped to 99 plus 7 shipping.

thx for he input

Fantastic thread - I just bought a new yuasa unfortunately, but thanks for the instructions!

My friend just picked up a E-batt battery. It has leads built into it. I believe it's lighter and cheaper than the turntech.http://www.ebattonline.com/

Though I intended to make my own, it was just so much easier to pull the trigger on the ebatt. It's ordered.

dang, that ones sweet also

Update:

After 2 months I had one cell go bad, voltage would sag to ~9V when cranking starter and the result was the ECU would get scrambled and not function properly. I could have damaged it while soldering or I simply got a bum cell. I have more cells on the way now to build a new pack.

I'll be using 8AWG and solder bars this time, along with Anderson connectors that I harvested from a dead UPS at work.

the best R/C bars are Deans 3.0 or Novak, you probably know more than me, but these are used in big voltage voltage R/C stuff

http://www.wsdeans.com/products/bars/index.html

http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=NOV5810/135.0.56.131.0.0.0

hip

edit: i think i might have some sitting around if you want them, just pm me if you do
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii135/coollikethat01/deansbars.jpg

Those are very similar to the bars I used, they are rated for 90 amps. I think they're all just silver plated copper. I just finished my new pack, the solder bars are in fact the way to go, super quick and easy. The 8AWG is heavy and bit tough to manage around the pack but it definitely won't drop voltage when current draw is at max.

I'm sorry to report that another pack built using the batteryspace.com cells fails under load. Being a gluten for punishment I figured I'd use my $50 gift certificate given because of the 'how-to' I order another set. This time I used solder bars rated at 90A, and 8AWG along with Anderson connectors, all of it way over spec'd for the job of supplying 20-30A the starter draws (on my 250 anyway).

I built up the new battery in no time, and gave it a few exercise sessions by drawing 4A for 20 mins. allowing time to 'rest' then recharge and repeat.

When cranking cold engine the pack voltage sags to an unacceptable ~8V. I've emailed batteryspace.com explaining the situation and asking them to make it right. Perhaps this batch of cells just does not meet the spec of 42A continuous, 50A pulse < 30 sec, and 150A pulse <1 sec.

I presume JoeT (turntech) packs use another cell and do not suffer this V sag. If I receive a refund I'll simply order Joe's battery.

FYI, my Turntech has held up beautifully for several months now. I do keep it on Battery Tender when garaged.

I finally got around to hard wiring my gps to the TT2.5
Now it makes me wonder if there is a voltage drop on it also.
A few times while cranking my gps will alarm for no external power. So there is some sort of voltage drop happening. Doesn't do it all the time.

For me it is no show stopper because my bike is carbureted, but it got me wondering about using it on a FI bike.

Hey BentAero,

Give us an update on the E-batt

lairpost- From my experience the instant the starter motor moves (inrush current) is around a 120A. The drop to 8V is fairly consistent with the 120A load. Then the load drops to 60ish amps on the 450's, less for the smaller bikes. I suspect that you are damaging the cells during soldering.

Reddog, the 2.5Ah will drop in the 7-8 volt range during the inrush current (the 120A above), just for an instant, then the voltage will rise. The voltage drop is what is causing the GPS to alarm.

The voltage drop is normal for these batteries, the bigger the battery the less the voltage drop will be. This is the reason the bigger batteries start the bikes better. Both batteries need to provide the same amount of current, the bigger batteries provide that current at a higher voltage. Current give the estart motor torque, Voltage spins it, the higher the voltage the faster it spins.