Seized Engine: 2014 Te310r W/ 15 Hours

Funny thing. Your exact symptoms happened to me on day one or two of ownership and weeks till I got it sorted. While the gears on the '14 were hardened/improved as the latter '13s and the tank was possibly spaced better above the water pump, the decompressor still caused those symptoms. When near TDC I could stand on the kickstart after a failed button start while it clicked. To me was locked up. I think I bumped it and then it was fine until the engine parked itself in a similar spot. Weeks later Michael at ZipTy suggested checking valves again since I had just done them to spec. Turned out it was the issue and decreased clearance on offending shim. All issues gone.

My initial reaction to your comment was check decompressor first...

Wow.

This is a puzzle. (I hate puzzles.)

Did you ever go through the alternator case and pull the hub to inspection the sprag (FreeWheel) bearing?

I have seen a few conversations re: the decompressor, but I have not gone down that road yet.

Still trying to get the flywheel off.

It seems welded on...

Sorry I never have. I wish I had seen this sooner. I got one of the 1st '13s in November/Dec of 2012 and dealer was of no help. Stock would stall everywhere and was clicking on trying to restart. I returned the bike and told the dealer I don't buy street bikes that don't run reliably or leave me to be run over at every stop light! He got it to breath and run and delivered to my house an hour away, so was cool with that but the clicking stayed and the being locked up at times. Prior to warranty being up I did the valves to spec but as I mentioned above spec was just loose enough so that decompressor would not work very well. Did valves again and solved it. I still own the bike and starter still stock. I do not believe there was ever a tech bulletin or any notice to owners about this issue. There should have been. Dealer was clueless but was at a time they were learning and Husky was about to be sold.

Please give your revised valve clearances.

How many miles do you have on the bike total now?

Has it started reliably since you sorted out the valves?

Any “locked” engine symptoms since the valve tightening?

"hub puller": Use heat. lots of it. (not on the magnetic surface though) Somebody may have used red Loctite previously (or your woodruff keyway is hosed) try chilling the crankshaft too with Dust-Off. firm- but reasonable hammer-strikes could help. by the look of those threads on screw, your puller is about to fail.

This is the flywheel & rotor for your motor; and one of the more precision manufactured parts on the bike.

My exhaust on left was .229, according to my invoice (when it was not working well) and spec being .20. I had my dealer remedy it as they did the initial valve check. Assume would be .179. I have 4k miles on the bike now. All offroad though ZipTy rebuilt it last fall as I had a head gasket go. For the most part top end and other parts fine though piston was replaced and crank gone over. No issues after the valve adjusted and that was back in '13 within 6 months of ownership. I get an occasional click. A second button push and starts right up. I think key is not to hold down the button and overload the little starter. Stab the starter but don't hold for long. Going to spin or not. Also most of us have gone to a li battery like an EarthX as they give a little more power on starting and definitely seems to help in that regard. So first thing I would tell most '13 owners is get the decomp working well so isn't feeling locked up as you found with the kicker and then invest in an EarthX. As far as running, it has been a real champ since. Never has left me stranded or broken down.

Trench: Ok, thanks. I’ll proceed with caution.

Johnrg: did you mean .18”+-?

Not sure I understand “1.8+-“

Thanks, guys for your input in troubleshooting this bike.

Ok, Heat did the trick.

Put the puller back on.
Applied some pressure.

Heated the hub for about 30-60 seconds and heard a pop.

Hub released from the tapered shaft.

The metal key stayed in place on the shaft and looks good.

Everything looks good until I found these plastic pieces around the shaft's key groove and in the key way on the hub itself:







Found these small pieces of plastic as well (batt. for scale):





Used kick lever to turn engine over engine half to a full kick--with the SPRAG and starter gear and starter OFF the bike.

Crankshaft stops rotating after a "clunk" sound from the interior of the cases.

It stops forward and backwards when I turn it over at the shaft with my hand.

I estimate the the crankshaft rotates about a half turn in either direction before it stops.

.229 - .05 (shims are normally in .05 steps) = .179 to be exact, is where my final gap should be. I edited my comment above. There is a vendor with shims in smaller steps but dealers may not stock them.

That plastic *may* be what was holding your flywheel on so tenaciously.

Did you ever inspect the clutch side?

It still could be a valve.

Pulled the clutch cover off.
Zero residue or debris.

Looks brand new in there.

Pulled the oil filter.
No debris.

So next step pull the head?

First thing pull the spark plug. It should turn over if it's just the decompressor not functioning fully. If so just pop the valve cover and check left exhaust values.

Pulled the coil off and then removed spark plug.

Experiencing exact same symptom.

Crankshaft rotates about 270* and contacts something with a "clunk."

Bummer. So much for the easy solutions.

If you don't wanna use an endoscope, just pull the valve cover (easy). You'll probably see right away if there is a valve problem.

If not, you're looking at a bottom end issue. Bummer x 2.

Thanks.

I almost have the head off.

Going to take a day or two to get the head completely off; have some dead lines and family commitments.

I'll circle back around to this and keep you all posted...

Thanks for the guidance.

well, you'll be removing the valve cover to pull the head.... so you get an answer early (possibly).

You’re right, Trenchcoat.

Got an answer early.

Here it is:

Some more:

That explains the "lockup" but where did that bolt come from?
It doesn't look familiar. Maybe it's an air box bolt?