Seized Engine: 2014 Te310r W/ 15 Hours

BTW, I'd suggest that you clean that damage with the valves closed but they are TI coated and I don't know if you want to scratch that.

Any opinions?

I was worried that the burrs on the seat might cause hot spots leading to pre-ignition. but there's a lot of aluminum surrounding 'em so probably not; especially on the cool intake side.

Aren't '13-'14 valves SS?

http://www.mcnews.com.au/bmw-f-800-gs-review-2013-2/

Steel it appears.

They are steel for sure.

And cheap.

The seats were perfect. No damage.
That explains the penetrating oil pooling and not seeping through.

One valve had a very small burr.
Ordered both replacement intake valves for about 35.00 each from Motorsport.

Not even worth the time to investigate and use a dial gauge to determine if they’re true..
Parts have suddenly dropped in price and much more accessible compared to just back in October when I did some research on suppliers. Hall’s is pretty expensive.

I’m making progress however.
Got my piston and rings in and all new gaskets for reassembly.
Piston and ring kit 252.00. USD.

The KTM sprag was way the wrong size. It was half the size of the correct Husky part I got in.
They are made in the same factory for sure; they are marked and constructed the exact same fashion.
Oh, well. Win some; lose some.

The Husky sprag was double the price.

My valve compressor came in—it worked perfectly.
The Husky model is discontinued. No dice there.

Intake chambers were surprisingly caked with dirt/clay-like substance.

Very surprised at the level of carbon build up and the clayish junk caked in the boot and intake pathway.

I’ll have to reshim, using the new valves.

Who has a kit?
Hot Cams does not. Nor Wiseco. Slaven’s Racing didn’t have anything to fit either.

Do I really have to order all the sizes from Husky.

the valve shims are the standard little ones I believe (7.48mm???) available all over. honda CRF size IIRC.

In general, do not search for "2014 husky TE310r" parts. very few bikes were made; ktm was transitioning as manufacturer. you sorta have got to get creative in your search. (if you got to be specific, search for 2013 TE310r or TXC or TC. whatever. less possibility of confusion.) Ask here- somebody has probably found it somewhere. Husky OEM'd just about everything outside the motor itself- for example our xlite fuel pumps are a KTM design. They made the footpegs and brake pedal though. <grin>

good news on the valves & cost. Piston/rings seem pretty good too. hell, your 14 hour bike will be new.

with a little hunting, you can find a new sprag for ~$90; Husky's may come with a ring gear??? (CRS). wait.... why do you need a sprag?

nice job on the valve compressor; post a picture. in fact, you were doing good with pics there for a bit. keep it up

Put a rag around your rod & crank- NOW. Gotta keep that FOD out.

Thanks for the info.

Yes, bottom end protected. Learned my lesson...

Found the Hot Cams Shim Kit:

HCSHIM01
7.48mm

Complete shim kit 1.20-3.50mm in .05mm increments with 3 shims in each size.

$63.97 delivery same day from Amazon.

Compared to $82 everywhere else online with at least a week delivery.





Here is the measurement of the shim from the ‘14 310R:

Perhaps someone can read this reassembly procedure for accuracy.

If I do what the manual says I would have one fiber friction disk left over and have a metal-on-metal situation with the the steel plate installed next to the pressure plate.

In the picture, they display a fiber friction disk last and then install the actuator plate, thrust bearing and washer then the pressure plate.

Which is correct the picture or the text?

it says install a friction plate first... you're doing that and ending with up with a friction plate left over??
you sure that there is not a steel in there you overlooked?
6 frictions and, uh, 5 steels IIRC? it says to end with a steel but ??? the manual is wrong a lot, pictures rarely. friction/steel/friction... etc until you're done, right?

yeah, the shim kit is common. btw, sometimes people (occasionally shops) will swap shims with you... especially if you can still read the numbers on the old ones. but get the kit anyhow. btw, mic the shims before you put 'em in. call me superstitious.

I have 6 steel and 7 friction.
That’s what came out of the bike.

yeah, that sounds right.

but one more friction than steel. start and end with a friction.

what are you doing with the clutch- and why? you sucked a valve, right? (well, a screw but...)

millions of mechanics: "if it works, don't fix it"

You told me to investigate the cutch!

“look for small debris in the other side too, causing the crankshaft gear or clutch gear to lock.”

yeah, i did say that.... and i also said (more than a few times from post #2 on) it's probably a valve.

but my question is- why are you screwing with the clutch plates... now that you know it's a valve?

(and my advice was to look for something between the gears- definitely not the plates). So I'm just wondering what you're doing with the clutch plates at this point, now that you know it was a loose screw that got sucked into your valve. Could be a legit reason (eg clutch was slipping so while i was in there....)

You're doing good here and documenting everything well which will help you AND future readers. I'm trying to get your thought-process in focus.

Just to be clear, when i recommended that you mic the shims- I was referring to the thickness, not the diameter.

And I have never found one to be out of reasonable spec. but it's an easy job, and the numbers wear off sometimes.

your electronic calipers are more than sufficient for this job; you don't really need a micrometer.

(didja get them already?? gawddamn, amazon is fast.)

New valves should not simply be installed. Even brand new valves require them to be cut and fitted to the seat. Both the valve and seat should be machined when replacing the valve.

That clayish junk is oil fumes sucked into the intake tract by the PCV system.

My TE250 was the same.

Good to know; thank you.

Is there a work around?
Add filter And vent the tube to the atmosphere?

Figured out a valve was bent using Prussian Blue as the manual states.

Replaced both intake valves with new steel valves.

The Prussian Blue revealed that one was slightly bent from hitting the screw--however, when assembled the valve flattened out under tension.

Mocked up the new valves, marked the valve with the PB, and rotated 90* with a small hose attached to the stem to turn the valve, perfect thin lines on the seats. Sinc the engine only has between 10-15 hours the seats were not deformed as to not mate properly with the new valves.

Assembled the head.

Then I compared the old rings with the new rings. They measured identical to the new rings. So I opted to reuse the old piston and rings as some had suggested.

Reinstalled the rings, notating the ring orientation pattern.

the red head TEs use steel valves. I wish the were available for the blackheads. I got a cylinder head from a blackhead engine that needs valves. Its hard to justify spending the money on the titanium valves for it.

Yes, my 2014 TE310R uses steel valves. Made in Switzerland.

I paid roughly $38.00 per intake valve.

(Notice the valve clinging to the end of the magnet.)
I took these pics when reassembling: