Someone on Vital MX forum lucked out in an old Husky way

Just make sure You can here the Slide in the Carb make a Clunk when You release the Throttle and there is a bit of slack in the Cable. Then make sure three are no Torn of Cracked Gaskets or Flanges between the Carb and Cylinder.

Thanks DPete, got a kill switch on the way.

Did you get it running?

the kill switch and the number plates got here yesterday so I hope to find time this week to play with it. I think I will try to take a video of the first few kicks and ( cross your fingers ) the start up and running of the beast. Jon

Not at all I just don't like to see people who don't have a clue about values getting ripped off.
Still it's not me that has to live with what your choices in life are.

Well today was the big day, I cleaned the carb, put it back together and fired it up. Test rode around the yard checking all the gears. The only issue it has is the clutch is not working real good, not sure if it will start working on its own or if I need to get in and take a look, but so far so good.

Yay, clutch is easy to check

Not real good like slipping or not disengaging? Not disengaging may get better as you run it. The plates get stuck together sometimes when they sit. Wrong gear oil will make it drag as well.

It was not slipping, I think they are just stuck. I will ride it around some more ( Dang it ) if it doesn't free up I will open it up. I put Bel Ray gear saver in it because that's what I had but it may prefer just cheap ol motor oil. What do you guys use?

Get it fired up and rev it (normally) not crazy while holding in the clutch if that don't work as your riding it in first gear give it a rev or two while pulling in the clutch , this usually works for me .

I've been running Castrol GTX 20-50 for 25 yrs. with no issues. Couple years back the friendly local Japanese bike dealer asked me what I run in my husky & I told them. They laughed & said that's all they use in everything for 35+ years. They said they have had no problems ever with it.

try some atf -f will clean your plates a bit. but I rekon it should ride out ok given a bit of work. at worst, you can pull it to bits and give the plates a good clean in solvent and a scuff up with some wet and dry paper.

OK, I have the clutch working. I rode it around some. I may have too race this thing in a vintage race next year but that's a ways off. I think I read that the front forks take 30wt does that sound right ? I way about 175lbs also what weight do you think for the rear? in has Fox spring shocks on the rear.

I think you want 10 - 15w fork oil. Others on here would be better qualified to answer. Glad to hear the clutch is working better for you.

Race tech springs help the forks quite a bit if it has stock springs. For about $160 + shipping, takes out a lot of the harshness of the old tightly wound springs. The race tech coils are further apart allowing the spring to compress easier allowing full travel. 10W fork oil if you go that route @ 6" down from the top with forks compressed without springs.

thanks, I may check into that, I am going to rebuild the fox shocks over the winter and work on the forks as well. trying not to spend a bunch of money but you know how it is with dirt bikes. haha