250-500cc Splitting the Case of a 2010 wr300

tusk separator is on

first case split is a success!

what I discovered
:
this is the bearing that the push rod keeps rubbing against and exact width grinding where the push rod keeps grind down

but if you look to the right of the actuator arm it is heavily ground into the case it self (the size of the pushrod tip)

this is how the push rod is suppose to be resting against the actuator arm
it appears the pushrod is going a little to the right (guessing when installed) and missing the actuator arm causing it to rest in the case and pushes off the case, it still touches the arm enough to shift proper but at the same time its misaligned from being head on the actuator arm cause it to touch it at angle and gets rubbed against the bearing (causing it to grind down and break)

so I'm not sure what to do about this now I do not think I should have the crank rebuild, maybe replace this one bearing and get a new actuator arm.
what are your guys thoughts? am i going to need to replace any seals putting it back together? really sick of putting money into this thing ha

Mount Vernon, I was wondering since I have done a few of these motors.

nice ya guess I decided going to have the crank rebuilt by Mrcrankshaft, replace all bearings seals and gaskets, get a new actuator arm with a new pushrod just to do a complete job
the transmission cogs look good
sent in the crank today should arrive there 11/6

5 speed tranny pulled

getting ready to pull all the bearings out the case

Nice work, I made a little video installing the bearings in the crankshaft of my WR300, maybe you like it:



Regards.

Now I don't claim to be an expert on these engines and haven't had a newer husky engine apart and someone please correct me if I'm wrong . In looking at the parts breakdown , your clutch pushrod works through the mainshaft and the mainshaft rides in the bearing in your case by the actuater . Looking at your pictures , to me it looks like the mainshaft is preventing the pushrod from hitting the bearing . If that bearing is bad , wouldn't that end of the mainshaft also be moving ? On the actuater side of the mainshaft , is there a "step" inside the shaft where the pushrod goes thru ? How is the flat bearing and the surfaces it rides on in the clutch (on pressure plate )?

ha nice video! did you purchase a oem seal kit and redo the seals? or just the one that comes with crank bearing? and you replace any of the other bearings?
i see that you left the shift drum in is it because you couldnt figure out how to take the plate offf on the other side where after you take the shifter off? because the manual says take two bolts off and then it comes off. But there's only one bolt and looks like you have to hit out with a hammer on the other side didnt want to break it so i left myn in but i want to check the bearing it sits in.

yes i just realized that it fully inserts into the bearing so it would not be rubbing against the pushrod, the bearing needs to be replaced spins good then kinda locks up. yes there's a step from the side you insert it in about an inch in then its solid hollow all the way to the arm, flat bearing seems to be good might aswell order a new one tho, and the surfaces all look good no warpage that i can tell

Bearing might be locking up due to shavings , maybe try cleaning or replace for piece of mind . I had a suspicion the mainshaft had a step in it . So back to the pushrod , is the wear on the rod same length as the step ? Is the inside of the mainshaft where the step is 'chewed up ' ? Hole on mainshaft larger than it should be ? Or pushrod too small of a diameter ? Maybe someone can measure and compare to yours .

yeah bearing forsure getting replaced, as for the main shaft I did some better looking at it it seems like a faint step(might be makingit up ha its really hard to tell) it doesn't looked chewed up shining a light down the shaft in either direction. is it a bad mainshaft or is the bearing causing the problem?

grinded rod



step on the other side of the shaft

Have you been able to compare your parts with others ? I'm looking at your pictures and on the 1st picture it looks like there is a band of lighter colored metal on the mainshaft where it goes into the bearing . It may be the lighting or just the picture but is it curved or even around the shaft ? On the same picture looking at the last gear , it looks like the wear on the gear teeth is more towards the next gear . Is that the same all the way around that gear ? Maybe just an illusion in the picture .

I've put all new seals in, the two crankcase seals were OEM, I got the rest over my local bearing shop for cheaper.
I only replaced the two crankshaft bearings with new OEM SKF, the rest were in good shape and I did not change them.
In my case I did not open the bottom end for a needed maintenance but to install a different gearbox, everything was in really good condition but I changes the main crankshaft bearings just in case, no real need to have done so.

BTW. The long ratio 5 speed from 2001 is way better in my opinion for enduro.
Cheers.

the gears look really good , the shaft looks pretty good too the pictures defiantly created an illusion.

going to clean the whole case and paint the scratched up covers and make it look fresh from a crate :d and I'm waiting on a seal kit, crank bearings, mrcrankshaft just rebuilt my crank so that should be here anyday kind of a waste of money crank was still pretty good, the transmission bearings, well I hope its everything I'm going to need for it to run super proper

Thanks everyone that helped me so far and responded will make a video of me kicking it over for the first time!

Hey! so I ended up pulling all the bearings seals and gaskets and ordered new ones taking forever too come finally waiting on the last transmission bearing that caused all of this to come here within the next week... hopefully.

right side about ready for assembly
mr crankshaft rebuild.
painted the covers candy red

anyone have tips on how to pull these small bearings my pullers are all to big

i have no idea where this spacer and washer goes can anyone help me findout!? cant seem to find it in the diagrams anywhere!?
Update: i believe it goes on the crank shaft

https://www.halls-cycles.com/images/PDF/Husqvarna .PDFs/2010/WR 250-300_2010 .pdf


Have a look at page 34, parts 5,16,8,23
Or page 40, part 21, there is a washer at the end of the secondary shaft, I would think that's the one...
Could also be the washer that goes on the crankshaft nut (page 38, part 14) but I would say that this washer is way thicker and yours is pretty thin so I would count on the one on the counter-shaft.

If you can't figure it out I think I have another of these washers on my WR300 transmission shafts, I could measure it for you..

Regards.

Regarding those bearings, I would not bother changing them if they are fine, but if you want to do so, I have seen several times people welding a longer rod to the inner race and just pull them out, it's easy if you have a welder.
The correct way is to get a proper bearing puller.

Cheers

ya I just them bought also they were 10$ so i figured id replace them also there still good so probably just going to leave them.

when i was taking it apart, only thing i didn't label because i thought no way ill forget (mostly remember it had something to do with crank shaft) almost three months later i forgot haha.. its the thickest washer i think its part 14 page 38 number 21 is still on there and that spacer i believe is number 6 page 38
thanks so much!

any idea where that small copper washer goes on?
i know that other one goes like this

thanks!

I have the Husqvarna bearing pullers for those bearings but we are at opposite ends of the state. They usually last a long time so replacement is usually just for feeling good.