The AF-Xied has I think 9 settings that can be selected from 1 to 9 by turning a potentiometer with a small screwdriver, anti-clockwise direction from leanest to richest. It is a simply fitted plug and play device with an additional earth wire required that connects into the lambda sensor wiring. Lets say our TR's target AFR (air fuel ratio) is 14.7%. The ECU gets this information from the lambda sensor and makes adjustments to the fueling maps to keep this target on track. The AF-xied manipulates this information, giving us the ability to richen things up just a little bit. · # 1 = 14.7:1 (stock) · # 6 = 14.35 +/- 0.15 AFR (2% richer) · #7 = 14.15 +/- 0.15 AFR (4% richer) · # 8 = 13.80 +/- 0.20 AFR (6% richer) · # 9 = 13.50 +/- 0.30 AFR (8% richer) I need to try #7 out for a while as #8 didn't really work out for me. Cheers, Q
That sounds like the same thing made for Ducati's, etc. just different plug n play connectors. Just a bit more sophisticated than the Wuka plug.
Yeh! Don't forget and in theory that because of the lambda sensor measuring AFR, that many of the benefits from fitting a temp spoofer device will be slowly tuned out by the ECU which is trying to achieve it's lean non-ideal target. I can also tell you that the Wukaking guru himself has also fitted the AF-Xied unit on his F800gs and I believe he was impressed. I was hoping to gather some sort of proof of this device working with some data from staintune's dyno runs. Wasn't any proof available and truly needed a sniffer to measure and track AFR's. My current opinion is that the AF-XIED works really well on my Terra and it seems to run much smoother. Cheers, Q
Trust me, "Quirky" and the word economy don't belong in the same sentance. Economy is so subjective, well recently with Safari tanks, panniers full of gear swinging in the breeze and my fat ass all up the whole show weighing around 360kg sitting up around 130km when ever possible with 15T front spocket. Economy was bloody terrible @ around 5.9 liters/ 100km or 16.94km/liter. I had a ball! I must admit that I was a little shocked at the above fuel usage so just for fun, Pulled the tanks off, no luggage put the standard front cog back on and ride sanely keeping it under 100 for half the day I got a respectable 4.3l/100km or 23.3km/litre. But, holly cow was I bored! Cheers, Q
I'm still waiting on a quote I requested a fortnight ago. I'll give him a call on Monday and find out what the hold up is.
Just talked to Adam. He's snowed under with emails but recognises that the TR650 exhaust is in high demand and will focus on it now. While he won't commit to a delivery date, when I asked if I could have one by July he said the end of this month is more likely. What he's going to do is gather together all of the TR650 emails and send out a blanket reply in the next day or so. He understands the frustration many of us are feeling. On the downside, Staintune have decided NOT to supply me with the parts to make a fuel tank for the soon to be vacant RHS.
I looked in detail at our exhaust cans and was pondering going to left side only. However, I would like to take the right side and dissect it by installing blocking plates on the inside and creating a gas tank from the old can so that I can retain the looks of the bike. If one could plasma cut (?) the inside of the can (facing the tire) and clean the guts out of in and install plates at each end then it would effectively become a gas vessel. I sat down and figured the volume and it would be just short of 1.4 us gallons. Once the exhaust is sorted by Staintune, I will be purchasing their system. I will then cannibalize the right stock can.
Of course not. They want to hang onto their business and not have the pants sued of them if/ when things go pear-shaped with a fuel-tank they've got no legal licensing for. Tanks are a whole different ballgame to exhausts. Which doesn't stop any of us playing around with this. Staintunes are just another can...easy enough to play with/ work on. Cut both caps off (20mm inwards from the welding seam), pull the internals and all you'll have left is a length of either 100mm round or 120x80 oval. Modify the parts and TIG back together, a quick polish and nobody'll know the difference. They're just made from bog-standard stock available from places like this http://www.bestmufflers.com/ Use any suitable/ matching Staintune for the job, scour Ebay + Gumtree etc. for $100-200 bargains. Here's a sample of cutting open a brandnew Staintune originally "made for a Yamaha TT600", shortening the can by 5" and re-rigging the pipe-works to fit a custom undertail system for a DL650 V-Strom. Finished up one hell of a pipe, not too loud with a nice, throaty/raspy sound, no popping or leaning out. http://www.austouring.com/forum/showpost.php?p=11414&postcount=103 http://www.austouring.com/forum/showpost.php?p=11414&postcount=104
I'm not convinced that Staintune could be held liable for a product that they didn't make. That would be like suing BHP as the supplier of the body steel over a car crash. I think that Staintune are more worried about people assuming that they made the tank, especially if the job is below their high standard. 90 x 125 x 1.5 oval tube appears to be not so standard. Staintune's oval is welded lengthwise on the inside, so I expect that it's a custom part made by themselves. They are certainly capable of it. Your suggestion to start from a second hand pipe is probably the best place to start. Thanks for that.
They certainly are...but why bother when those guys do it day-in, day-out? It's takes quite some equipment, too. http://steeltube.com.au/?gclid=CLebhu6Wub4CFUIDvAod3IkA9w
In other news! Turns out today that I've been missing something very important from my Terra. Can't bloody well believe it. Sooooo.. let my dealer service my Terra today Yes, I could do it myself and be much cheaper but the alterium motive was that I got to take a new R1200GSA wasser boxer for a spin for a couple of hours. How good are they, all that weight and almost comical size disappears once aboard. I want one! So came back to the shop and reluctantly gave the 1200gsa keys back. Anyways short story now. The damn idoit technicians when derestricting my bike in the very beginning have overlooked updating the ecu with the moss tool accordingly. So I'm a little pissed that they missed this on delivery and also missed it doing the first service. But on the bright side I now have a bike that goes much harder than ever before. So It means that all that dyno data previously posted will certainly be blown out of the water. Cheers, Q
It appears so. The TPS apparently isn't set to run 100 percent open in the restricted version. BTW hasn't improved top speed much but it gets there much quicker with heaps more torque and power.
With a lot of front wheel in the air when you give it the berries, can't wait for the 15 c.s. Will have to ask my dealer about it, l don't think he even has a computer. Oh well, might have to go for a ride to Brisbane
Just talked to my dealer and he knows nothing about updating the ecu after de-restricting the bike prior to delivery. There are no directions that he has seen from Husqvarna that mention this. The de-restriction procedure only covers the removal of a throttle cable movement inhibitor. Can you find out more so that I can tell my dealer what needs to be done?
Nothing special needs doing, just update the system with the Moss tool. Not sure how many Husky dealers in Oz have the Moss tool? Not many I imagine. My dealer does BMW and Husqvarna so they certainly have it. I wish they had bloody well used it sooner. I got told by the technician that I still had full throttle but the range of the Thottle position sensor may not read that the butterfly is 100 percent open. This then affects the fuel mapping created from the ecu. Ask your dealer if they have the moss tool and if they don't have it, I can recommend you find one that does.
