250-500cc Starting a Wr360

Since there has been heaps of inquiries on how to start a 360 and none on youtube etc...thought l'd video how l recommend starting the thing.

Note: I need to do a ring change and even at full comp, sidestand or not, this is my procedure.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lor_q8we3wU

Thanks, that's what I have read and been advised. Got the click to Top Dead center, but don't know about the next little spot. You should go ahead and throw in the cold start method. Lean it over on its side, wait for dribble and then stand back up, repeat until cranked. Did you give yours any throttle? I just about have to crack the throttle open half or more, before it gives any rumblings. Looks like the winter project will include a carb cleaning. I can't wait. It's cold here and you look like you were enjoying a nice spring day.

Cheers mate,

Yeah it's just on the summer time here but after 10-15 years of drought, it's been very wet in Victoria, Australia and l usually put the bike away at this time.
Cold starting method is as you describe but we only ever get to as low as 5C or 40F so just tend to wrap the throttle twice, choke on and usually fires after 2-3 kicks.

Jay

Okay, I've been brain dead lately, after about 10-15 kicks I can start to get it to stumble alive. I've done the tip over on the left side. Done the TDC, why so long to rumble to life. I guess I have to go looking at the carb or valves or something. First Two stroke so kinda lost and sweating while kicking. Once started, idles fine, choke on or off. Seems to be good. Could be I just forgot to put the petro in it, I dunno.

So I think I should have revised my question. If it were you where would the best place to go hunting down my problem.

It's a pretty loaded question but l would first give the carb a good clean, insure no lines are blocked, pull the fuel line off and open the tap and make sure the fuel line aint blocked then put a fresh plug into it.

If dead cold and left outside (you are heading into spring?), you seem to have it knack (lean over and cycle through TDC), if you are using a Keihin carb, just put the choke on and don't use the throttle. If you have kicked it for mor than 10-15 times, pull the fresh plug out and have a look...if it's wet as hell then you have an issue with the pilot circuit or have an air leak somewhere (check the base gasket for leak)....whats the comp like? Last resort is to open throttle and kick it.

Thanks for the reply ohmygewd, maybe I should just address questions to you. Seems I have been brain dead for a few days and needed someone to set me on the right track. I'll start to clean the carb, I'm guessing nothing special about it, or anything tricky to watch out for. I presume the carb is stock, is there a way to tell, and I don't know which one that is.

Just wasn't sure about reeds or other internal stuff for a 2t that I'm not familiar with. I don't think there are valves so nothing to check there. See what I mean.

Nah...if you want to pull the carb out (what year do you have), clean the filter but don't over lube it and pull the reed cage out and just check the petals for splitting although this won't or shouldn't effect the starting of the 360.
Go to halls-cycles.com and download a parts list of your year model husky which will give you a good indication of how the carb is broken down.
Your powervalves don't necessarily effect the cold starting of the bike but just inspect the basegasket for weeping oil which will indicate that you have an airleak
Again, start with a fresh NGK BR8ES plug (standard type) with a .50mm gap.

Will do, thanks! It is a 2000 WR 360. Pretty sure I know where the powervalve on the side is at. I don't see any leaks around the cover. Nor do I see any leaks around the jug or anywhere else for that matter. Got a fresh plug in it already. I don't have any idea of the compression or when any ring change or really any work was done on it.

I appreciate the help and thanks again.

So, now I have the carb cleaned up, had to replace the idle jet, it was whacked bent and the holes on the side had become oblong. So, new idle jet and adjust the float level. Hopefully gonna put it on this evening. I could barely see through any of the jets. This is just a FYI, the machine was brutally powerful for what I have ever ridden and that was with the carb all jacked up. Talking with my Husky Specialist, owner of Fletchers Cycle in Memphis, he was pretty sure the Powervalve is stuck also. But told me not to worry with it until I was happy with the new, clean carb, and take it easy. Due to the powervalve opens up around 4k rpm and gets all giddy again. So, do I put the cleaned up carb on and ride or do I put the carb on the shelf and leave it all alone, out of sheer power this thing might lay down on my dumas.

Thinking about looking at the powervalve, but don't know anything about it either. I like learning, it just seems to take longer for me.

One critical step isnt mentioned here, Two strokes need pressure in the crank case to start easy. Those 10-15 kicks could mean a leak in a seal.
So any way, the video, shows how to start almost perfect, but the case wasnt pumped up till after the 2nd kick. Before you start a two stroke
Throttle closed, richner up, slowly push the kick starter down all the way a couple times. Next top dead center, kickstarter all the way up, and a solid kick.
Buringggggg
Mike

Stuck power valves means they are gunked up with excessive oil build up or carbon...you can pull the powervlave pivot arm cover (the case that says HTS) and take the linkage arm off the bottom pivot and manual push it up and down, this will tell you if the powervalves are stuck.
If they are stuck, then you really need to pull the barrel off and hit them with carby cleaner or oven clear to dissolve all the gunk...afterwards, spray some CRC and they should move freely.
Dumping the new carb on the bike would be time consuming as you are leaking compression from the powervalve if it is stuck open therefore it will be hard to start - which maybe the problem after all.

Ok, got the carb back on it. Seem to fire right up but I still had to pull on the throttle to make fire. Its late so no spin, will in the morning. Will see what the starting procedure is in the morning!

I have the adjustment knob for the throttle cable all the way in, unable to get slack in the throttle, thinking I may have the wrong cable on it. Its not binding anywhere and seems to be in all the right places. Im not sure if I have it routed properly, but it looks alright. Just a little concerned with no forgiveness factor built in. If someone could tell me the route their cable goes would be appreciated or even a couple of pics would e great also.

Didn't get a chance to look at the powervalve.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Keep em coming.

food for thought i have always cracked the throttle 1/8 while starting all my big bores. few slow primer kicks. TDC, crack throttle and kick all the way through. by opening the throttle, air is allowed in and thus sucks in a load of fuel. hard for the fuel to get sucked in when its kinda a vacumm. i never use the choke but im in hawaii too.
here is my wife starting my cr500af supermoto http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfFwkXWJ-tY

Cool thanks for the info. Seems to be the easy way, light twist and the magic lights off, so far so good. Now, before I get into the powervalve. I got another observation I need clarified.

Right off idle the bike seems alright with just puttering around. Tttwist a little further and it seems like it is stuttering on the edge of using the pipe. Once past that point, it is smooth and then just flatlines after a bit more throttle. Sounds good just quits pulling. Curios, is this possibly right or is there more when the poweervalve opens. Is there a second rush of power? I don't detect another one. I will have to open up the cover and see if the valve is working. Once it feels like it is done pulling there is a large amount of throttle still left. I don't have any way to compare, so I gotta ask about this.

Buddy has a kdx 220 and you knew if the powervalve was stuck. It didn't run right at all.

if its stuttering right off idle then from like 1/8 throttle to 1/2 then i would venture to say your too rich on the needle. raise the clip posititon one step at a time. if you get to position 1 (top clip) and its still acting up but better than it was i would guess you needle is too rich and you need to change the needle to a slightly leaner one and start over. but like stated make sure the reeds are good, air filter clean, good compression, and no air leaks.

Reeds are good, gonna clean filter not to bad. What would good compression be? Unable to find any air leaks. Just idling around no stutters, when you slowly start to twist, I can rev it up to where it is on the verge of power, like on the pipe, off the pipe, etc. A little more twist and its shoulder tugging time.

A lot of good info which helps clear the cobwebs. Still working on it.

does it start first or second kick?
im a bit confused on where the stuttering is occuring. is it high in the rpm range or low? or how about the throttle position? 1/8 1/2 3/4 full? what jets are in there and what is the clip position? here is an article that has helped make jetting a bit more understandable. http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/Keihincarbjett2004.pdf

but remember to jet in steps. one change at a time.

Starts 2,3, or 4 kicks or one when warm. Low rpm, im thinking not a problem just its character. Never ridden a two stroke before so asking a lot of questions, got a bunch of four stroke, though.

About 1/8 throttle just puttering around, 1/8 - 1/4 brutal power front coming up, 1/4- 1/2 pulls like a freight train. After 1/2 no more pull just more engine noise.

Main jet -380
Idle - 30
Slide 4.0
Needle in 1st clip
Couldn't read the number off the needle and could barely make out the main. Need a better magnifying glass.