I wasn't talking about just putting silicone there. I saw the pictures of the airboxes opened up. It's clear there are other sources for leaks. Fully sealing the box and fixing the design problems with it in addition to fixing the filter mounting and you should have a pretty solid setup. Me? I'm not willing to induce the additional intake noise and vibrations linked to the pod mod. I also am not going to get rid of the stock exhaust for the same reason. Mine's primarily on the street with long hours in a stretch with absolute minimal dust, so throwing that ability to do the long rides, I don't consider an option. The solution lies in fixing the airbox, not making it obsolete.
You will find that the only time that the air box is louder is under heavy load uphill, there are NO additional vibrations IMHO, I didn't change my exhaust cans so my bike sounds like it did prior to the change with the exception I noted. Otherwise it is barely different at all unless you dislike torque. This is a personal choice to make these changes. It's your call, and I won't argue that. If you think for a moment that a fix is coming from Husqvarna in the NEAR future I wouldn't hold my breath waiting in the mean time your bike is ingesting road dust, rubber, and other contaminants from riding tarmac. We all know that to be true because we all maintain our filters. Its your decision, I made mine. The wrtie up I did was for those that do. H5, Ame and others are working on a proper fix through 3d printing. It may be done soon. I will be interested to see how it plays out, I hope favorably. Kudos to those that are trying.
It was also pointed out to me that my "How to" was missing it's pictures and indeed it was. I haven't figured out why but it is restored now with pictures intact.
Pod air intake mod now completed. Thanks again to all of the pioneers who shared all their knowledge. Opted to cut out and remove a section of the air box. I believe the engine is liking it, running awesome, now it's not sucking through that tiny air filter. I didn't get to fancy 5" angle grinder did the cutting, well I had it out already to trim down a torx bit for that hidden screw. UNI filter crankcase pod, pic is upside down for some reason but ya get the idea. View attachment 39303
Hey Charlie, I removed this piece(front skirt piece) to do some wiring. Can you tell if that piece is supposed to go over the bump out on the coolant tank. It definitely looks like it, but doesn't seem to want fit.
We have a problem! Well I do anyways. Crankcase breather making too much engine oil. Made enough to start weeping out of the air filter door. Decided to try putting the breather back on the original chamber. Cut a few pieces of plastic out that was the original air filter mounting surfaces. Found a plastic 13mm poly pipe tail fitting, then drilled a 1/2" hole and glued it in. I then roughed out a piece of plastic to make a lid. Ummmed and arrrred for a while and finally decided to leave the oem expanded plastic filter stuff out. Hope this works!
Used this stuff to seal up the lid I made. Drilled another 1/2" hole to access hose clamp on the breather.
Hmmmm, I have my crankcase filter sitting vertical. I don't know if it's right or wrong but it isn't weeping oil. I will say that the OEM foam was saturated in oil. This one, so far so good. This is a (very) rough drawing of where mine is located. I sure wouldn't think horizontal or vertical would make a difference especially given that the hose for yours is vertical until it gets to the filter.
Have been running it pretty hard at times last weekend Charlie. $1.30 and $1.40 everywhere and even up to it's limits at $1.60 on the open stuff. My filter was also located vertically and similar to your drawing. Engine oil checked hot and rested as per manual was 3/8" below full. As for the move my theory is that I now have a chamber to accumulate some of the oil and not just that tiny hose burping engine oil straight into the breather. This may also give it a chance to drain the oil back into the crankcase. Maybe my engine is rooted, dunno. Cheers, Q
Why is it not possible to simply take off the side plastics/top fuel door cover, cut the top of the airbox as shown here, and then fit the Uni with 90 degree elbow to the existing round gasket that sits atop the throttle body? Why is it necessary to remove the bottom of the airbox at all?
It is possible. I did it, http://youtu.be/a_5mKsVW_-Y and part 2 is on the same utoob channel. I do not think you have to pull the right side panel. Another has done it in under 2 hours, with lollygagging included.
If you take off the top of the air box it is very easy to get the bottom off. The top is a bugger. When Njoytheride started this he did it the way I did it. Magoo and others have refined the process. My only comment about the air box bottom is that if you use the silicone 90* hose it is too slick to clamp onto the existing rubber ring that resides around the throttle body. I do believe one would be better off cutting the exposed portion (the visible portion showing inside the air box) off that ring off of the throttle body to provide more grip for the silicone 90.
Thanks for the response Mag and drz! And thank you for doing so much of the leg work for the rest of us. It made it so easy to order the parts knowing exactly the right hose size, filters, etc. One thing you could add to the parts list are two 2.25 inch t-style hose clamps to secure the stainless coupler to the bottom housing and silicone hose. I just purchased all the parts for the mod. I'll post as I go if I divert from your plan or alter the process in any significant way. Knowing me I probably will, just to make it harder and take longer.
For anyone that is having problems with the joiner pipes vibrating loose there is a trick I use on my drift car. Take a can of hairspray and apply it to the joiner before putting it together. Do it before it dries and it makes it easy to put together and will hold very well once dry. I ran 32 psi this way and never had an issue with tubes popping off. And if you ever need to get them apart a little rubbing alcohol will work.
If anyone is interested, I have the goods to do the Pod filter mod and don't need them as I elected to go with the Am E air box mod instead. Hard decision that. PM me if you want the parts and we can work something out.
Kenneth I am in the process of getting the parts together for that as well. I think the AM E and High Five version is the way to go rather than hacking every thing up. Simple no relocating and use the factory air box the way it should have been designed. Would be very interested in knowing what you think of it when you finish. That method for the 3d printing is amazing about technology now a days. If any one else has not seen it click this link http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850525&page=261
It takes all of 10 minutes (literally) to clean the filter on the Pod mod. Remove the seat, take 6 screws (plastics) loose, lean the left side plastics to the left, remove two screws from the air box loosen the filter, clean the filter and reverse the process. Done. Here is an update on my Pod Mod. I cleaned my air filter this morning after running through heavy dust following friends last weekend. I haven't checked my filter for a 1000 miles (since the last cleaning). Here is what things looked like. Filter assembly The throttle body
