With the Safari long range tanks, there are no side panels I had looked at removing the air box, to save having to drop the sub-frame etc to do the valve clearances However the air box does offer weather & heat protection to the Pod filter
I was just curious if someone has actually done it is all. Yeah when I tore it apart there was a lot more bracing than I thought the air box would provide. When I have more/proper material I might revisit it but for now I left.
Well in any case here's the finished setup, not happy I had to make two cuts on the air box though. Huge thanks to the guy's that did this, with out them it would have been a lot more difficult. Strictly used on the road and I had dust and dirt in the throttle body.
Well done MP, they're not pretty Not where the AIT sensor is located, there's virtually no aitflow across it, & it is now subject to engine heat effect This is what "triggered" my "spoofer" research (if you can call it that) If you relocate the AIT where the filter used to be, it'll be measuring air inlet temperature The Pod-mod appears to significantly "improve" airflow into the motor, which attenuates the lean burn characteristics I've ordered a complete new airbox, my intention being that after testing etc I'll put it all together nice & neat Currently I use a 1.5mm thick neoprene cover piece, keeps the water out & possibly some of the noise down
I do have a booster plug mounted behind the filter. You can see the top of the temp probe in the pic(silver). Absolutely no issues since I did the pod mod and the booster plug was installed prior to the mod. Even with the cool air here in west tn and a very low density alititude, the lean stumble has not been an issue. I guess I'll see if the bike adapts to the booster later as it has about 1000 miles on it. So far, incredible engine performance and lots of torque for pulling low from 2nd when putting around back roads and trails. It also has a 15T front sprocket... That helps mask some potential stumble I'm sure but im very happy with that setup.
I have a 3D frame and Uni filter I'll sell if any one is interested. PM me. Filter was used in stock frame for a short time.
My Booster Plug gave excellent results for nearly 15,000klms However, the Pod-mod plus Sydney hot summer weather the ecu decided that it didn't like it & turned into a "bitch" Hence the research The AIT sensor is now where the airfilter used to be & I've gone the AF-XIED route, all other "spoofers" having been removed I've been under-taking 80-100 klm rides, stopping for an hour for the motor to cool then riding another 80-100 klms Every time I've repeated the process, the bikes performance is improving, just as was predicted as the ecu "unlearns" the "spoofer" & "learns" the new parameters
I have done the mod by leaving the box on and using the hot knife to cut the plastic box. I know there are several schools of thought about the area where the original filter is located. I am thinking about putting the uni filter that fits the original housing back in place to work as a pre filter. Who thinks that will be too restrictive or unnecessary?
if you search back through the podmod threads, you'll see how glitch and myself had hacked the original filter holder a bit and then put a pool filter sock over it. It's a coarse weave that is barely restrictive but will catch most large dirt particles before they get into the airbox. I have done I think 5000km now with the podmod and the pool sock filter and I have chnaged 3 dirty sock filters and the pod filter is still clean.
Further to that...been using the Motorex Oil Filter Oil 206 http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/bike-man/cabinet/daytona4/d-64063.jpg for that pool-sock lately (I really bought it for the KLR, which is still using the OEM filter foam as it's only "defence", hoping to beef it up with the thicker oil)....it's a bit thicker and heavier and "clogs" the weave material of the sock somewhat better than the Motul spray-can stuff I had (pink/ red-ish colour). Plenty of air coming through still....and yes, no visible dust/ dirt or bugs on the actual pod filter yet. The filter sox come to just over a $ each....and 5 mins work (I left out the bottom inboard screw out of the air-filter frame permanently). Grab the whole bag, add oil bit by bit, scrunch it all through thoroughly, then peel out one filter-sock at a time for use, the rest go back under the seat.
I'm now using the same but have only done ~ 2000 km since installing. Checked the throttle body inlet last week and was clean as a whistle and filter sock only mildly dirty. Seems to be working well.
I modified the air box door after doing the pod mod, works well. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/air-box-door-mod.53908/
I have pondered it and decided I would wash out the UNI that goes in the stock location with soap and water then dry it and install it dry/no oil, and give it a try to see how it responds, then make further mods if the performance has declined from the original setup.
Has anyone tried the 4" pod yet? Thinking the cover might fit better when the spring isn't compressed against the front of the air box.
I have a 4 inch, ready to experiment with, have the 6 inch currently, ecu issues rose & became my focus I agree that although "in theory" 2 inches shorter the actual effective area exposed to airflow might only be a little bit less
The clear plastic ones work for me, the clear bowl side downwards so as to collect oil mist (if any) & return to crankcase
I am about to do the pod mod and would like some advise as to do I need to relocate the crankcase breather at the same time?
