Thanks for that Glitch, great write up and big thanks to all the others involved with this and other solutions to our bikes problems. I really like this bike and looking forward to doing the improvements! Have had my terra from new and have been waiting for my 2 year warranty to Finish to do the recommended improvements to the bike ( end of June ). Think Ive got the air box / filter part of the operation sussed but would like to know if it is absolutely necessary to relocate the crankcase breather and if so what is the advantage please?
The main concern re: breather were various reports of broken-off breather-nipples from the floor of the airbox, particularly after working/ cleaning the bike like oil-changes, plug changes etc. Instead of waiting for it to happen, it seemed a good idea to fix it for good while playing around with the podmod. It's just a minor job and once out of the way becomes something that can be nearly forgotten. The reason I fitted it through the floor of the OEM filter compartment is that with each change of the prefilter pool-sock the breather-filter is an easy, automatic visual check.
Here's something to keep in mind when doing the PodMod. I originally used a straight PVC plumbing joiner to join the silicone elbow to the UniFilter pod filter. Worked fine but the plastic was quite thick - about 3mm - which obviously reduced the internal diameter. I have just replaced this part with an aluminium joiner with outer diameter of 57mm and am amazed at the improvement in performance. Clearly the increased airflow which has resulted has a dramatic effect on the engine performance. This is the part that I bought: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=201255788890 Aluminium Silicone/Rubber Hose Joiner with Rolled Edge - 57mm / 2.25 Inch OD
I actually wasn't going to do the pod mod, but the breather nipple broke off the bottom of the airbox and the relocation of the breather to the airbox required the space where the stock air filter was. when you relocate the crankcase breather, a self tapper screwed into the old breather nipple will stop filth getting into the airbox.
I recently had Errol Kowald assemble an airbox for my TR with the Mk 2 3D printed UNI filter - he has a number already fitted to Aussie TRs & Strada's, with considerable success, he also blanks off the AIT hole - my AIT sensor is located on the right hand side, in front of the radiator cap well away from engine heat, -a lot tidier than the Pod-mod & allows the dust-proof air box to do it's designed job - I loved the idea of the Pod-mod, but couldn't find a way to make it neat & tidy - I have heaps of brand-new bits if anyone wants to undertake the Pod-mod themselves Contact Errol Kowald for the 3D filter mod
Just done pod mod on my strada at 10k miles. I've basically never took the bike offroad, yet the throttle body was pretty dirty. I sliced part of the top portion of the airbox and it might have not been enough as sticking in the filter was a real PITA as I ended you damaging the plastic protection cage around the air temperature sensor. Also, one of the bolts instantly broke off the plastic piece that it screws into. Overall, I'm happy I finally got around doing this mod as the original filtration wasn't doing its job. Thank you for the step by step pictorials guys!
You can order a new airbox top from KTMparts. It's only about $16 and ships fast. An entire new airbox, both top and bottom, is less than $40! I ordered one recently as a spare in case I want to try a different approach some time. The thick rubber seal on the carb was only a couple of bucks so I ordered one of those also. I plan to work on the airbox and get an Aussie UNIFilter mod going. I've got all the parts but am not entirely happy with the 3D printed parts. I'd like to CNC a air filter holder or cast one. I've researched it and it doesn't look too bad.
My printed filter holder failed and I am going a different way now. I have a new air box on hand and want to make the stock filter location work if possible. Changing the seal at the joint between top and bottom of the box is a good start, and sealing the divider is part of that. It looks like, after examining the new parts closely, that the stock filter sealing face is actually three sided. The top, from memory, depends on the side of the filter and not the face, as it should. I intend to add material on the third side so that there is a 360 degree interface. I can't start of this for a while but I am going to give it a good try.
If you use that good 3m glue Charlie discovered, I think that is a good route. One other area to pay attention to is the rubber grommet at the throttle body. The pod mod I did for the video, on that bike there were signs of leakage at the grommet as well, the box had warped some from a tank bag, and that opened it up there. It was small, but evident. Edit: Glue High Five found
The 3D printed airfilter carriers manufactures in Canberra are superior - the repair to the 2 airbox elements is quite simple & straight forward
I take it you haven't yet really looked into the airbox flaws. I suggest looking deeper. Actually seeing 1 taken apart in person really reveals the epic absurdity. There are lots of hidden flaws in the design of the TR airbox. The filter itself is actually the smallest of the problems. Look into the airbox posts on ADV. There is a long history and it does take some effort to get up to speed on it if you're coming in fresh.
Summary: the TR650 airbox is a screen door with a filter. No matter what filter you use in the stock configuration, it is still a screen door.
Unless the airbox is modified in such a way as to rectify the OEM challenges I rather like the Pod-mod, however Errol's 3D Uni filter, to me is more elegant - I'd need to do more work on the Pod-mod, maybe "in the future" - I've still got all the bits'n'pieces
Any pics of the Errol modified box?? Any contact info for Errol? I have the later 3D printed cage from here in the states, but haven't got my arse in gear to get it done. Actually tried to get the airbox lid off one day to no avail.
It's actually not too bad getting the lid off but you absolutely have to split the frame, and then there are two steps that are an absolute MUST. 1) You MUST disconnect the fuel line from the tank to the injector riser. Tricky, but easy when you know how. 2) You MUST physically force the frame apart and then hold it open with a block of wood about two inches thick. I cut mine from a 2x4. I found it worked best if I jammed the block between the fuel tank and the frame member on the right side. I was then able to squirm the top half of the airbox out pretty easily. After having done it once I bet I could get the airbox out in less than an hour. I too am interested in using the front loading filter with the little square UNI. I've got the 3D parts that use the thumbscrew. They look bulletproof but I really have a mind to cast them in aluminum then bolt (or rivet) them into the airbox with an appropriate seal. I have a brand new airbox from KTMparts so I can work on it off the bike whenever I have a mind. I believe one of the keys to success will be in adding a flange on the upper edge of the lower airbox so the stationary printed part will have a decent sealing surface. I actually like the idea behind the design of the airbox but agree that the execution sucked.
When I did it, i removed the two upper sub-frame bolts only. Did you remove the lower sub-frame bolts as well? The lower part of the sub-frame doesn't look like it would move much before hitting the exhaust. Thanks for the tips MW!!
Only removed the upper bolts but I did loosen the lower bolts just a tad. I also loosened the exhaust header clamp. I'm not sure the exhaust separated much. Regardless, I had the bike on a floor jack and I friggin' twisted the darn thing open by pushing down on both ends. But you absolutely have to pop off the fuel line first. Once the frame is opened up a little the airbox is comes out with a little twisting and swearing, but I'm not even sure I went through the whole list of seven words.
