strange clunk

I put the kick start lever on, wind up the spring to the correct location then drop on the pawl, let it hit the stop cam.



Trust me we all learn the hard way in the beginning.

My first 83 250wr rebuild I bored it put in a new piston and it didn't last long. What are crank seals? Leak down test? I learned right away. I installed new crank bearings, seals, leak down tested it. Rode it, parked it, next bike?

Bill, he said in an earlier post that he followed the Huskydoggg youtube vid on how to install the kicker components including winding the spring. Since I know little about this era Husky I'm curious, what should he of done different to avoid of all things a broke center case?

Heres the vid he shared. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=_Va1ZUZF6jk

did you grind away on this for quicker engagement? what condition were the idler bearings in? is the idler gear what pushed the case open?

These things are sent to test us, don't give up! It will be worth it in the end.

So when buying one of these bikes what would a person look for to be confident this doesn't happen after getting the bike home? Can a guy check for to little travel on the kick starter lever before it engages or does the cover have to come off to tell that its okay and not going to explode the center case after the purchase?

hmmm, looks like the kick idler gear suddenly stopped...when that happened the case got stressed and cracked.

after you assembled, did the kicker make a rattle or knocking noise when the bike was running? almost seems like the kicker tried to engage with the engine running.

yeah, you will want to make sure the pawl is tucked in the whole way when the kicker is at rest..its a good idea to periodically replace the caged bearing on the kick shaft and the idler shaft for good maintenance. maintaining good kick habits greatly prolongs everything in the kick assembly, like feeling resistance then kicking thru...instead of just stabbing it. i think this is what tears the pawl up.

Kick back could have caused this.

How is your ignition timed?
Tony.

no the kicker didn't rattle or knock, I made certain the pawl was not engaged and fully retracted when the kicker was in the rest position. Two gears on the idler were broke off when it stopped suddenly.

Tony mentioned that timing could be the culprit and the kickback could have caused it. I'm not sure I'm qualified to respond on how it was timed. It started easy and ran good so I never checked it since Ive owned it.

I really appreciate your input guys and I'm learning a lot about this bike. When I do find a set of case$ the real fun will begin because I've never split a case before so I'll be at your mercy

did you find a set of cases??

Check condition of the small gear on backside of clutch basket and post pic of it plse.

I have a couple of leads on cases but nothing confirmed yet. Will this set of 1983 500 CR cases work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lower-engin...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

yup they will. 82 to 88.

This is what i mean, not the idler.

I will check this out when I get home.

Ok so I let me get this straight: Any 1981 to 1988 big bore lower cases will work without modification? I was told 250's of that era need some modifications to work? Please confirm

the cases are similar but the 250 has a smaller crank area that can be bored out but what hassle

I have 1 mint L. side case (R side has a worn rear steel insert) from a 85/6 400 or a pair of mint 82 250 cases i can sell.

All I found is 1 little pit in crank area, I will remove the studs and rear insert for you.
The single shock cases have a larger hole in the insert for the swing arm pivot bolt.