Stuck Cylinder, Advice Needed!

Compression was low on the '82 XC250 that I acquired recently and decided to inspect the top end and presumably bore it out and install a new piston kit.

Problem is I can't get the cylinder to break loose. The engine is still mounted in the chasis for now.

Any pointers would be appreciated as unfortunately it just doesn't slide off neat and easy like shown in the Husky Engine Service manual.

Thanks,
Adam

On one that I was'nt going to reuse the piston on I stuck a wood dowel in the exhaust port and used the piston to "jack" the barrel loose.

There may be corrosion on the four cylinder studs which has swelled to fill the passages through the cylinder. It might not be a bad idea to turn it upside down as keeping the crud from those four locations out of the crank cavity is hard to be totally successful. What else could be binding? That lower fin has been bent before so you must not be the first.

Fran

Wd forty

Success!!

Well, the studs had been soaking with WD Forty for over a week. Tried using a hammer and piece of wood angled up at bottom of cylinder to try and get it to budge, no luck.

Tried Husq.Fleets method this morning and broke the biggest dowl I could get in the exhaust port. Didn't want to try a steel bar for fear of damaging something.

So driving around this afternoon pondering the problem and came up with this solution, and it worked!!

Took two 2" tie downs with straps pulliing directionally across each other and up, torqued them down very, very tight, then took a rubber mallet and started some semi-aggressive pounding on the sides of the cylinder, and walla, we have seperation!! Definately plenty of gunk, grime and corrosion. See pictures.

Next time double nut the studs to remove them. Pull the studs and wire wheel them.
To flush the bottom end when your ready to reasemble it. Fill it full of gas.

Tip it over to drain the gas out,then flush it out with garden hose soapy hot water.
now mix quart of gas and oil fill it up again. Drain it blow it out lightly oil main bearing RH side and oil on big end of rod,top end bearing. your done.
Use a drill motor with flapper wheel to clean out cyl stud holes.
Later George

I'll remember that if there is a next time and thanks for the tips on cleaning the bottom end, was wondering what would work best for that.

I see you put the stud nuts back on in case of "lift off"! I paint the studs with anti-sieze when I reassemble. Just before I put the head on I also run a small bead of silocone around the top of the cylinder/stud. This hopefully keeps gunk from going down the studs. Dont know how well the silicone works as I haven't had one apart since doing it.

Did that to a Greeves Griffin once and broke of the liner where it went into the cases

iv used the car wash, with the soap on, flush well, make sure you til it over and drain well, apply a generous amount of WD 40 after wards, even if your going to have it run the same day...rust is a killer.

Thanks for all of the tips guys, absoutely love the Husky vintage forum!

I like to do it that way, too. With studs out just like George said.

Studs

Ok, so after I take the studs out and put the wire wheel to them, do they require lock-tite or anti-seize lubricant?

My opinion is anti-seize. I like the copper based stuff esp with stainless.

Next time you are trying to get something that is rusted apart instead of WD-40 try PB-Blaster, I have found it to be many times better.

The cyl. studs should be prepared as follows; Clean the studs and the threads in the case using a bottoming tap if necessary lube the stud with regular oil and do not tighten them in the case with pliers just finger tight then follow the torque specs when installing the cyl head. If the cylinder studs are deeply pitted I would recommend that you replace them.

kano labs,,,,Kroil....is the best on the market...hands down...
you get what you pay for.

I prep and re-install the studs very similar to lankydoug, but just a little bit tighter. I double nut them and torque them to 15ft-lbs. Can't say why, exactly, but they still seem to stay in place when you take the nuts off the head at a later disassembly, and on my bikes that's 25ft-lbs. And if they do come out it really doesn't matter.

But my method is, admittedly, just a guess. I've never been able to find a torque spec for the studs, only for the nuts. I wonder what it's "supposed to" be.

Ah... Husky mysteries!!

hey mate, i hope you see this,
i've set mine up the same way, it's got enough tension to flex the frame spine and it's really really tight, i have been belting my cylinder as well and it's been soaking in wurth "rostoff" for weeks before i got my frame back so i could set it up.
how long did it take you to get separation? mine isn't even hinting at moving.....

Silicone around the studs on the reassembly between the top of the cylinder and head.

As long as you're doing battle with the cylinder and studs, you might consider trying this penetrating fluid recipe. I haven't tried it, but have come across it on several websites.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1078040