Sudden clicking noise on '11 TE449

Believe it or don't, my first name issssss - Joseph! What are the chances?

I will be getting new bolts and Loctite, since it's extremely simple and quick to do.

It bothers my wife if I spell humour, colour, or flavour without a "u." Also, she corrects me if I say Zee vs. Zed (Z). Another is that she will say "LEFTenant", even though it looks like LOOTenant to me. Funnily enough, the Canadian military supposedly hates the pronunciation LEFTenant, so I win. Nyaah!

found it:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRI-A3vakVg

Trenchcoat85:

Okay, I finally got the bolts. They wanted a minimum order of 100 here, so I had to order from Vancouver. Still had to buy 20 for minimum charge. $ 5.00 for bolts, $ 15.00 for shipping!

If there is some threadlocker residue in the bolt holes, do you think it is necessary for me to clean the threads with a bottoming tap, to ensure the new application of threadlocker takes hold optimally?

thread locker: use brake cleaner on the male & female threads and you'll be golden. don't worry about any locker residue. remember the primer/activator if all the metals are passive. use a torque pattern and come up to your final torque (whatever that is) gradually.

how easy/hard did the original bolts come out?

Trenchcoat85:

Okay. Thanks.

I haven't taken them out yet. Probably this upcoming week.

Upping the date!

Okay, I did it. Got brake cleaner and a brand-spankin'-new torque wrench. Never gave it a thought that the whole thing would spin, even in first gear. Had to put my foot under and through to depress the brake pedal while using two hands on the wrench. Almost couldn't loosen some bolts, yet one was not-so-hard. There was threadlocker on every original bolt. Got it Loctited and buttoned up, only to see on the Loctite bottle that it's not recommended for use with chlorine, and, of course, the brake cleaner is chlorinated. What are the God-damn chances? Hopefully, the cleaner evaporated enough to not cause a problem.

well, the brake cleaner should be no problem- you waited until it was evaporated... correct? Are you thinking you dodged a bullet with *that* one bolt?

If you put the wrench over the center of rotation of the (in this case) rotor, it reduces the tendency to want to turn. put it in a higher gear too and use the rear brake (and maybe a big rubber band or screwdriver to hold the pedal down).

The ticking never resurfaced? good news.

I think I let it evaporate long enough.

No idea about dodging a bullet. Not sure if the threadlocker was what made them so difficult to remove, or if they were over-tightened.

Ticking never re-surfaced, but it did die on me while turning yesterday. First time ever, and hasn't done it since. It's a puzzlement.

Now I'm wondering if I should take it all apart, and re-do it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, dry it with a hair dryer, then use more new bolts. I don't know what to expect if the cleaner affected the Loctite.

Marc- you're good.

here in the states, you cannot even GET brake cleaner that has CFC's in (that's what I'm assuming you're talking about); since the bogus ozone hole scare 25 years ago, that stuff has been gone (billion$ spent/wasted on refrigerants & solvents; atmosphere still has a ozone hole in it down in Antarctica.... shhhh! don't tell anybody, but ozone is CAUSED by UV radiation. guess where there's no sun, and circular air currents for months at a time?)

I read the Loctite thing; it's recommending against using Loctite in systems that use or carry strong oxidizers like chlorine or in pure oxygen environments. And the warning isn't even that stringent. I would not worry at all. and if your brake cleaner has CFCs in it (send me some!) definitely don't worry: it's about as non-reactive as you can get. hell, it's related to Teflon. And if it's got some other form of Cl in it (Sodium Hypochlorite?!) there still may be no problem.

Our brake cleaner down here is usually a mixture of Acetone, Toulene, some alcohol (Methanol most of the time), maybe xylene too. way-way more flammable and dangerous than the old CFC- based sprays.

BTW, by waiting for the solvent to evaporate, the solute will precipitate out again... 'cept if you blow/spray it so hard that the oil (in this case) is blown out of the holes, along with everything else. brake cleaner "blows" pretty gawddamn hard.

I think you're golden- don't fret.

Okay. Thanks.

I talked with Henkel (Loctite's owner) just now, and was told it's fine. Let's see what happens.

Accompanying this message is a picture of the brake cleaner I bought. I don't know if "Chlorinated" refers to CFCs.

well, I am guessing: no- it says "No CFCs" right on the front. Still you don't have a problem, I am pretty sure.

How's that for oblivious? I didn't even look to see if it said "No CFCs." I saw only "Zero VOC."

I'm just wondering what solvents they're using: "Zero VOC" and "Fast Drying" are kinda diametrically opposed. Any list of ingredients on the back? ...and if not the MSDS for it will usually give everything away.

again: don't worry. hell, do a test... you got extra bolts, right? that might calm the voices in your head.

I will take a picture, then post it here - just-a for you (Italian accent)!

For my own peace of mind, I have decided to weld the rotor to the freewheel. I know, I know... you're wondering, "Why didn't I think of that?"

Yet another update. I got some non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and re-did the bolts. Sprayed the cleaner in, then dried each hole for one minute with a hair dryer. Another set of new, clean bolts with Loctite 243, and torqued to 126 lbs.-in. Unbrako's tech info said they were good to 140, but other literature said to reduce it by 10% if lubed (Loctite), so I did. All back together now, and peace of mind for me.

Accompanying this message are two pics of that chlorinated brake cleaner can.