Suspension Setup recommendations.

After I changed springs I didn't need to alter the stock preload.

I might be picking this to death now but had a question. My last race and practice course I rode the last 2 weekends, in each I dropped the bike once in a corner from the front end washing out. In each the corner was deep sand and at the mid to later points in the race/ride so I was getting tired. I'm wondering now could this be a sign I need to go to the .38's for more settling in the corners or just more likely the nature of a non expert rider in a deep sandy corner? I also noticed if Im in attack position with my head quite a bit over the front end it sticks to these sandy corners better.

Any thoughts? I'm just trying to get this as right as I can.

In sand you need to steer more with rear wheel under power. Attack positon is important.

Hey Dwight!
I took all the measurements per your equations and came up with these numbers for my '06 WR 250:
Forks: 35mm static sag (equation says I need 42mm) and 58mm rider sag (need 75mm)
Shock: 45mm static sag (need 35) and 98mm rider sag (need 109)
The springs are stock so it's obvious now that I need softer springs, but how do I know which ones with your system? Guess and check?
Any help would be much appreciated. Can't wait to see/feel the difference with the right springs!

Anybody have .40 fork springs for the 45 Marzocchi's and a 5.2 for the '06 Sachs they'd like to swap for my .42 and 5.4??

Excuse me if I missed this somewhere in this thread but is the sag set using your weight w/ gear or in street clothes? With all my gear on, I add close to 15 lbs to my normal weight (175 vs 190), which seems like it would affect the sag settings significantly. I put weights on the footpegs and seat (~70/30 split) to get as an accurate loading so I just want to be correct in setting the sag. Thanks.

yes gear on and attack position

Hi, I finally have some findings to post re. my ´11 WR125.
1st I got the correct rear sag and then move over to the front. 185-190lbs nekkid, full gear, basic tool belt, half-full camelback, no helmet.

Stock rear 5.0 when at 105mm gave almost no free sag, so I didn't bother trying to preload it to get 100mm.
With a 5.4 spring I got 100mm rider sag and 30mm free sag. Dead-on. I don't know the brand of the aftermarket spring.

Stock front .42s gave me 56mm rider sag and 37mm free sag.
Aftermarket .40s give me 78mm rider sag and 40mm free sag. I don't know the brand of the aftermarket springs.
So, to try to get 75mm +/-2mm rider sag and 40 +/-2mm free sag I'll have to try to try one of each and do a couple of more measurements.
But, how to tell them apart once having mixed them. Any ideas? Maybe a mark with a file slightly deeper than can be easily scratched away.

I recently had my forks (new 04 CR125 w/Marz 45mm forks) worked over by a local suspension expert. We could not get to the sag numbers with the stock .42 springs. I thought I would need to install .40 springs to hit the sag numbers for my weight.

Upon taking the forks apart and the tuner found lots of binding in the fork internals and some problems with how the forks were assembled by the factory. Anyway, after reengineering the forks, the stock .42 springs produce the correct sag numbers.

In addition to completely reegineering the base and mid valves and modifying the piston, the suspension shop shop intsalled SKF seals and did some work on the fork bushings to significantly reduce stiction and binding.

That was enough to free up the forks. Might be a good idea to check forks for excessive internal binding/stiction first if you think you need a lighter spring.

Good points.
The fork internals could be damaged on these KYB 48 open-cartridge.
Some nut at the factory seems to have tightened the lower tripple clamp bolts with a breaker bar .
Same goes for a few nuts in the linkage that were tightened really exessively, of which one bolt was slightly too long, wearing on the connecting rod. Solved it by shimming it with a washer under the bolt head.

1st time I had them apart I put in SKF seals and wipers, changed the oil, set to 110 (now 140), put them back together and aligned the forks.
2nd time was again to change oil and put in the .40s
3rd time was lighten up the base valve and have a look-see of all parts.
BUT, I didn't check for damages and wear .
Will do next time.

of which one bolt was slightly too long, wearing on the connecting rod. Solved it by shimming it with a washer under the bolt head."
That 'too long' bolt might be in backwards- it is an asymmetrical link.

I'll check that.
Thanks.

Spring exchange question:

I am looking for a 5.8-6.0 shock spring for the Sachs shock on my 610. Anyone have an old one they're willing to give/sell?

Another spring exchange question:

I am looking for 0.44 kg/mm springs for the KYB OC forks on my 2012 WR. Anyone have a set?

So I've had my bike for a couple weeks and have been on a few good rides. the front end has been all over the place (esp in the rocks) almost wiped out a couple of times. Figured it was time to get this all tuned in and wow I am WAY out esp on the front!!

So the guy I bought the bike from did MX with it it came with a extra pair of springs and on the paper it says .48. here are my numbers

Front 300mm travel
0 static
32mm rider !!!

Rear 305 travel
48mm static
93mm rider

My front is off the charts! Looks like I need a WAY lighter spring maybe he has the .48's in there??... no idea! The rear looks like a step heaver spring? maybe for now just mess with the preload to get my 104mm rider? I need help LOL

well I just pulled the springs out and the "spare springs" are a little wider and quite a bit longer than what's in there... they won't slide down the tubes. Must be for a different bike or something?

If your forks have 0 static sag I would imagine there is really stiff springs in there, the springs are too long or there is too much preload on the springs. Your rear spring is too stiff as well.

I'm not sure how to change the preload on these forks, don't see any spacers? Anyone have specs on the springs? Probably no way to tell what they are... I will measure lenghth and maybe coil thickness tonight but not sure if that will help?

Probably would help if you told everyone what bike, how much you weigh, height ect. If your forks don't have adjustable preload, it is usually adjusted using spacers.

It's on a 2011 wr300 Weigh 205 with gear on and am 6'3" . It has the KYB open chamber forks