I liked the idea a while back about using silicone sealant instead of anti seize. You barely have to tighten and the silicone acts like threadlocker and keeps any moisture out of the threads. Very easy to remove bolt and clean the threads. I have yet to have any back out since using silicone.
I was hoping the anti seize would also prevent that. I guess I will find out next time I dismantle it
I have also found that the rear brakes adjustable cam for pedal height should be siliconed since I'm always trying to find the comfy pedal height. That Allen head bolt doesn't take much torque and I really would not want to loose that bolt
I am trying to find a solution to my brake pedal. I feel like I have to literally pick my foot up to use the thing. I have it adjusted as far down as it goes with the little cam thing but it still is not enough. Maybe I need more flexible boots? wearing sidi chargers. im thinking about trying to get some pivot pegz or something. I have a similar problem with the shift lever on the left. Though not as pronounced. getting really freaking frustrated as it feels like I can't stand up at all on this bike.
Search for brake lever mods - is a thread or two here. Some fit a different shackle on the plunger. I removed the nut if I remember correctly to give more adjustment and have also removed a little metal on the underside of the lever so it does not stop against the mount.
Do the 630s have different lower frame ergonomics than the 610s? My 610 has stock pegs and my brake is adjusted somewhere near the middle, and I stand up and shred on it all the time. Baron, are you also adjusting the clevis location on the master cylinder threaded shaft? Do you have more adjustment range there? If so, you can always just put a spacer between the stopped cam and the lever to hold the brake even further down...
I have to look at it and see if there is. I had not considered messing with the spacing of the clevis/nuts.
