TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

I had the nut come off the starter gear myself. When the button was pushed the starter just free spin / spun... I was able to pull the starter and easily get into to fix. I have pics posted some place, either here or tt.

Doug

I'm hopeful my starting issue is now sorted out. My valves were adjusted at the dealer yesterday and did a run this morning to test kick and electric start. One of the exhaust valves was .229. In spec but not decompressing. I'm assuming it got a .025 adjustment to lowest spec as I can now easily kick cold or hot without having to stand on the kickstarter. Leg alone gets it over... Much better. Started fine cold or hot. And electric as well with no click so far. *Did a second ride today off road, slow, hot, a few stops to test starting and kicking and all seems be working without kickstart locking up and no clicks from the starter. Worth having the small increment shims for this valve. So hope this is it for me.

Is this starter used on anything else? $286 seems like a lot of money for such a small crappy starter.

Well my 2010 TXC still has this starting issue too. I have been kicking for a year and a half. Gerge310's post was interesting, I noticed a small amount of coolant loss, and mayonnaise present at valve check time coming through the breather vent( this substance drips down right on top of the valvetrain). pulled this pump this weekend.. shows signs of mixing. We are not talking alot here, but the oil changes are not dark at all, very light colored. Ordered parts for the pump rebuild(new bearing too) and went ahead and ordered the updated corona wheel and pinion while I had Dan on the phone at motoxotica. I will report back to everyone if I cure my hot start issues. I detailed my starting issues on prior pages if anyone wants to know the symptoms.

Bike ran well even with the coolant mixing, so everyone with an x-light should monitor this. Seems to be a cascade effect as one problem may be causing secondary issues.

Fuman-

Thanks for the input sir. How many hours on your bike?

I agree with the cascade effect - nice description - bike ran too hot caused by faulty water pump - caused excessive engine wear - first noticed by the an estart issue - caused by exhaust valve clearance increasing auto decomp not working due to the incorrect valve clearance - valve tips wearing not the seats this increases the clearance - oil consumption 300ml in 450km - well time for a top end rebuild all started by the water pump - bike seems to be OK coolant use 0 - 300km since rebuild - i now check the coolant after every ride and look for any signs of milky oil during oil changes.

Not sure how many hrs on bike, just put on 1st new rear tire last month. Bike is powered up with race ecu and injector so the new ecu doesnt show accurate hrs.

We'll see if I have valve issues after the fix, and need a top end due to valve wear. I changed the oil every 2 to 3 rides so it was over maintained.... also , the cooling fan never comes on... maybe once since I've owned it.???

I've been kick starting my 2010 txc250 for a while now since the starter won't turn the motor over but last weekend I noticed how the starter seemed to be dragging when I went to kick it. So I figured the one way bearing was hanging up. Just took it apart and the bearing is worn and the surfaces on the two other parts are worn. Was just gonna put it back together without the one way bearing cause I didn't want it to get stuck and cause a real big problem. But since I happen to have a Honda crf250x motor laying here I thought I would check to see if the one way bearing in it is the same size. And it is. Its also $35 cheaper than the Husqvarna one way bearing. Now I'm gonna try Bill's spring mod while I'm working on it. (tried it and bike starts now)

Hi All,

Some times ago, I have open a new thread for my broken fixing starter motor ( http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/info-for-starter-motor-stater-drive-for-te-250-2010.31193/ )
So i just have made my anual engine check, and, thinking my problem was my valve clearance of decompressor, i would change shim to get 0.20mm clearance.... But, surprise... valve clearance is good! So i don't understand why, sometimes, i have backfire which is responsible of my broken fixing starter motor.... So, even if it's not a problem to not have starter on my bike, I would like to find the problem....

If anyone have another idea.....

Cheers!

Hi, I now have this e-starting problem hot or cold. I used to only get problems when it was hot before I carried out any work on my bike. Could be self inflicted though as when I changed the piston, I checked the valve shims and decided they were all a bit tight. I took out 1.70mm shims on the exhaust side and replaced them with 1.65mm shims. This was to get them to what the spec says .20
When I hit the button, dash goes out and it sounds like what other people describe where the starter is bound up and won't turn the engine over.
I can Kickstart it first kick every time.
Think ill do the cheap stuff first and put the old shims back in. Have a look at the decompressor jobby.
If that doesn't do any good, think I'll take the starter out and have a look at those gears. All good fun eh!!

OK.... For me, I'm still without starter even if I have one in stock, I prefer not to mount it to risk breaking more than another starter...

Well, tonight's e start experimenting began with removing fuel tank and spark plug then cranking it over. It sounds a little laboured as it cranks over but at least it continually cranks at a high rate. So.... I had a look at valve clearances and they were how I left them at .20 with 1.65mm shims in
Decided to put the 1.70mm shims back in which left me at .15 clearance. Exhaust side.
Plug back in and Fuel back on. Press e start and it cranks it to TDC then binds up... Push it again and it cranks it then fires up. Left it running a minute. Switch off. Try again..... It fires back up !
Left it running 5 minutes on the stand. Switch off. Push it again.... Binds up dash light goes out!
I had a look at the decompressor but to be fair I'm not sure what the hell I'm looking at... Till I read this, I thought it was an oil flinger!
Starting to think its that worm gear. Took it out and had a look at it. It looks ok but then I don't know what a bad one looks like. I think I have come to the conclusion that the worm gear is binding and if the new one is updated then maybe I should put one in anyway ????

Ok so i have read through 16 pages on xlite starter issues now and i narrowed it down to the starter drive- lose nut on the starter drive shaft, the shaft itself or worm / drive gear/ or ring . I also am having a hard time kicking it a bit seems to be a full body kick from top to bottom and sometimes its takes more then a few kicks so its valve clearance issues as well? exhaust side? im kinda looking for the coles notes on the clearance gaps and what im going to need so i can order some parts. This ones going to be done with a mechanic as i don't have much time these days with work so if someone could send me a PM with the coles notes so i can pass them on to my mech so he has a head start ( or just post them )
the starter motor works its just not grabbing and ive done the lithium batterie upgrade so she pulls hard and you can hear is spin and not grab.

Maybe for some bikes valve clearance and adjusting the decompressor is the ticket.

Good idea. A bad starter/gears can and will crack the case.

If all you guys are just kickstarting, consider buying a 2010 TC250 cover plate. It mounts right on the case and plugs the starter hole and you can remove the starter and starter gears.

Have you a picture of this? or a part number?

Replaced the starter gears this weekend. No wear present on the pinion, but if I looked closely at the corona wheel there were grooves cut into it slightly. The pinion is much harder than the corona wheel and was self machining due to improper clearances or a metalurgy problem. The new parts have fixed it so far..... The stater turns over with more speed and sounds different too because the binding had been minimized. Need to get it real hot on a hard ride and see then. But fingers crossed!

the two parts were about $125, worth it IMHO!

What parts did you buy?

corona wheel part no. 8000A7073
Starter crankshaft 8000A7063

ordered as a kit I beleive form Dan at Motoxotica

It is important to note that if you just pull the starter and associated crankshaft out(4 bolts) and look for wear on the pinion, you may not find it.... that is what I did about a year ago. As stated in the prior post, much of the wear was on the corona wheel( or crown), and you have to pull the flywheel to really see it.

..... The stater turns over with more speed and sounds different too because the binding had been minimized. Need to get it real hot on a hard ride and see then. But fingers crossed!

Interesting: this was exactly the same problem I had with my '13 te310, but it was BRAND new-couldn't have been a wear issue. But they replaced that gear set and I immeadiately noticed the faster speed when turning over. I thought maybe they changed the ratios or something to make it spin faster.... Anyway, since they did that I haven't had any issues.