TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

work on the new engine 22 kg

My starter was working fine for 3 yrs. Only my sprag seized.

I wonder if the "new" parts are any different than the stuff in my bike, or just made better?

They've updated the ring gear already a few years ago and it looks the same as the one I took out.

Has anyone compared the new and the old parts together?

My 2013 310 is still awaiting parts for the starter, but some information to pass along. When I bought the bike, the dealer searched and found no bulletins on my VIN (early 13). However, there is now a bulletin out for replacement of some internal gears. The two dealers I have talked to have ordered gears for all their unsold 2013 bikes, and some for those already sold. Sounds like the same problem the previous year bikes had. The gear issue causes the starter to fail. Mine was drawing 600 amps after just a few attempts to start with the e-button. With my new starter and what ever parts they send, my dealer said I would be updated to 2014 standards. Now, to get them to start my warranty from when I pick up the bike. It has been in the shop essentially ever since I bought it. I wanna ride!

I'd for sure try to get some documentation for how long they've had it. At least make note of it yourself in case it becomes an issue later on.

if you have a good adress to find the new kit (8539725 reference) in usa, cause in France it's expensive

I had some wear on my ring gear as others have so I have ordered the new gear set. I am having a hard time getting the worm gear out though. The shop manual says that after you remove the 10mm nut it should just pull out....I can't seem to get it to move. Anyone done this before have any tips.

Thanks

Husky USA is going to take care of me and extend the warranty since the bike has been in the shop essentially from Day One. Thank You Husky! Still don't have the bike yet but should see it next week. Can't wait to go hit some local trails and enjoy a lite weight bike for a change.

You will need to spin the ring gear as you pull the worm gear out.

Sorry I should have been more clear. I have removed the starter from the case and have taken the motor and the off. I am trying to get the worm gear shaft out of the starter housing. The manual says to take out the snap ring, gear and bearing then the 10mm bolt and pull the shaft out. I have tried this but I can hang off the thing and it will not come out.

My 310 is home! New starter and gears installed and it spins like a champ when the go button is pressed. All on warranty, thank you Husky. Tech said the new parts were noticeably better machined compared to the old. Map updated and time to fill the tank and do some riding, finally! Zip Ty parts on the way and due in today. Maxilube going in immediately and 0-40 M1 at first oil change. Hope the bike will live for a long time if I treat it right!

Kenneth, did the husky USA Warranty just your parts or also the labor? I am having some issues and was wondering what they covered.

They covered it all; didn't cost me a dime.

As an aside, I did exactly what I said a post or two ago; put in the Maxilube right away. Hope it doesn't make breaking in impossible! I should have waited until after the first oil change. Worse things could happen I guess.

Hi everyone ive had my starter/freewheel/worm drive replaced, it lasted 15 hours and the starter stopped working again. I replaced the freewheel and worm and it turns over fast and starts easy when cold.

I also removed the thermostat and housing and fitted a switch to the fan to try and keep it cooler!

And also reduced my decomp clearance from 009 to 007

BUT upon my 1st race back it popped n cut out n failed to turn over fast enough on the button to start

After 5 mins it decided to work and start, this happened 6 times and the final time was 20 mins where it just jammed, it wouldnt kick either!!!

SO WTF do i do know, pissed off ready to sell it, maybe i will reduce the decomp to 005??

Ive read about the exhaust valves does anyone think it could be this, hadenough.com!!

thanks

Definitely try the exhaust valve at .005" clearance.

Can starter solenoid fail when hot?
Any way to test?
Back story: 2012 TE310. Exhaust valve w/ auto-decompression at .004 inch. Shorai lithium iron battery, 14v running, 13+v off. When warm, after only 2 miles or so, e-start will not work. No grunt, no click, nothing. Motor has to turn over before the mechanical decompression can occur, so that is not it. (Won't start even when I manually move it off compression.) Starter armature, windings, brushes, gears, bearings all look perfect. All works when cold, kick starts fine when engine warmed up. Must be electrical. What in the solenoid/relay windings could fail when hot? Or in starter? New solenoid on its way from Bill's. Will go to 8 gauge ground wire, which reduces resistance from 0.4-.5 to 0.1 ohm. Voltage when starting drops to about 9.75v very momentarily, which I think is fine. Tried to do the solenoid/relay test described in the online service manual. Several times 13+ ohms. 4-6 is normal per manual, but I may not have done it right.

These little bikes seem to have a litany of starter related issues, but no apparent common thread. The 12 port injector/ecu solved the other main issue.
Rant over.

Almost sounds like a temp sensor issue.

Would that stop the starter working when hot, i let it cool and starts/turns over ok.

The starter turns slowly or just jams when engine hot and is a bitch to kick i.e get TDC and do a full kick and it 'might; go!

Is there a safety mechanism via the temp sensor to stop it firing/turning over?

Also its only spring here so not that hot yet!

thanks

This is actually not good because the efi requires quite a bit of voltage to prime up. I have also heard of riders having issues with the Shorai batteries. Sounds like your compression release may be the problem when hot.

Gents, appreciate your attention to this issue. Will wait to comment substantively after new starter solenoid is installed.
My current impression is that efi primes up fine. Re auto-decompression gizzy, that is all mechanical, and I have doubt that temp is a major factor in its operation. So what does the temp sensor do?
Phil