TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

As Joedirt stated and to alleviate confusion I have attached images from the 2012 Service Manual. Note that it is simply the TC that is a redhead/Keihin for 2012. Note the images of the throttle bodies. TE and TXC are the same Blackhead/Mikuni.

Hi the starter issues WERE a part of the TPS issue. I.E i had the engine overheat and be hard to restart 1st enduro out, this then buggered my starter worm n wheel due to over use AND my Exhaust decomp gap being set at standard!

I had gears replaced and a new starter even though that wasnt faulty. ONE month later the same issue during a race, getting hot running crap cutting out not restarting easily unless cooled down.

I then replaced worm and gear Myself AND reduced my exhaust decomp gap lesser than standard to 005 i think, went 2 sizes smaller. It now turns over great but still when the weather got hot decided to pop and cut out not restarting easy again sometimes 20 mins. Id have to leave it for a few mins if cut out before trying as trying made it worse and take longer! Even when running it was starting to get fluffy and less responsive.

I never got the idle i wanted and it didnt idle smooth and hunted so more fuel needed, to note i had i remapped to Open exhaust at the 1st worm n n wheel replacement!!

Then my mechanic mate said try the TPS, i adjusted anticlockwise and it immediately started quicker and was VERY crisp on the throttle!

And yes my bike is a TXC250 2013 so RED HEAD i.e BMW.

I hope this helps someone

I have a 2013 250 TXC with similar issues. I am definitely going good to try this if it isn't resolved already.

Halls put in a flywheel and key as that finally let loose at 5 hours. When hot it always died and hard to restart. (Before key broke)
They also replaced temp sensor and spark plug at 5 hours. Only has 5.1 on it right now so not sure if it's fixed or not. I will try this next.

So far I added cv4 hoses to remove the thermostat to help with cooling. It hasn't helped at all. The bike gets so hot my ass is hot.

It will die easily when hot. Even with clutch in rolling at idle it will just cut out and that it when it is hardest to restart. It is a great bike when it runs, but mine has had issues in the short 5.1 hours.

Another note, my mate and I swapped bikes at the weekend, his 13te250r and my 14te250r, only difference is fuel maps, exhaust bungs and cc forks.

I reckon mine was far more responsive,very sharp throttle response but other than that, very hard to tell apart.
I bumped up my idle for cough stalls, I had inadvertently turned it down before instead of up so it doesn't cough stall now at all and only has 2 rides on it(practically brand new) .
I also have a 220cca LiPo battery fitted so fires instantly, more grunt through starter gear etc but for less time so I reckon that's better.
Make if this what you will.

Try the TPS, i had also removed the stat and replaced the temp sender , the TPS was the missing link, adjust when running u can hear it improve immediately

How we can adjust TPS for a TE 310 (2012) with Mikuni EFI ?

With I-Beat software only.

Hi did it work for you?

Hey Matthew,

Did they use any 609 loctite (retaining compound) on the flywheel. The key is nothing more then a guide and if it's wearing or sheering there is another issue. I know some years came from the factory with it but others didn't.

Joe

I rode the bike for 3.2 hours last weekend with no issues. I did not touch the TPS and it seems my root cause was the temp sensor.

I watched as Halls repaired my flywheel under warranty. They used regular red loc tite on both the bolt threads and on the shaft. They said that's what they do and it works.

I agree retaining compound is the correct product not red loc tite but I was in their shop.... let tech do it his way.

Bike broke on a Sunday I was 5 hours from home. Luckily only 20 minutes from Halls husqvarna dealer (where I bought bike). They came in on Monday (usually they are closed Sunday and monday) just to fix my bike. They also allowed me to watch. That was great customer service! Flywheel itself was also replaced due to damage at the keyway.

Congrats, it's a good day when the bike runs well.

I don't think the manual calls for any loctite on the nut but dealers see a lot of bikes and as well know manuals are just a starting point.This was the first time I've worked with green loctite. I guess it's mostly used with bearing installs where vibration or fit isn't perfect. The fit on my flywheel to seemed very tight so I don't really think it's doing much for us.

That's cool about the warranty. That flywheel is really pricey. . .

The 609 is low viscosity for press fits. I have never had one slip with 609 on it. Remember you will need heat to remove the flywheel next time.

I watched George working on a sheered key on a '12 TE 310 and he was using lapping compound to get a better fit before re-assembly. I may check back to see if he is going to use any loctite.

up

My 310 showed signs of stalling again using e-start in my last ride. Even with cold engine. It eventually started, but I don't want to force the system. Using only kick start now.
I have a love/hate relationship with this bike.

When I was going thru this and checking off the boxes before dropping the coin on a new starter that Husky upgraded the starters at some point. The current starters is slightly higher output. I thought I bookmarked it but couldn't find it. This (I'm guessing) was done BEFORE 2012/13 so if you're ridding a newer bike I'm guessing you've already go it.

Regardless my thoughts are: It sucks they don't last as long as somethings but the replacement cost with a little shopping around is 250-270 range and it's a really easy install. Yea that's not free but it's not enough for me to just give up on using it. My bikes a 2012 and seen some racing for the first 80 hours or so. I ended up needing to replace it around 110 hours. I've since not had any real issues I'm sure it will go again in the future but I'm not going to shy away from using it.

Per the love/hate relationship I think you're not alone. . . even with the work/money I've put into it so far for for my slow ass it's been a great bike and I've learned a lot.

2012 model. It's my second shaft+crown upgraded kit. I've had to replace everything: Crown, shaft, pinion body, electric start motor .. last breaking out: free wheel, retainer clutch one way, and another crown ... (after two rides ..)
All checked: relay, temp sensor, valve clearance (changed exhaust valve shim) ...... ok
I'm waiting for my SS oil filter .. and I'll try 0w40 ...
I'm not giving up .. being patient .. I think I'll wait until next year and see what gasgas do ...

My 2010 TE250 is still running and starting great.

I am running the original ring gear and shaft that came with the bike.

Still got a 4pt injector on it.
I have 65 hours on it total.

It spun the flywheel 1 day after the dealer "fixed" my ring gear he said was causing the E-start issues.
My sprag seized about 10 hrs ago and I replaced the flywheel and sprag and tossed the original ring gear back in.

I kick start it most of the time and use the E-start on the rare occasion I stall it on the trail. Hot or cold it works.

My exhaust valves are .007 by the de-compressor and .008 on the other side.

.006 on the intakes and they have not moved in 30 hrs.

So far so good!

David is the list of repairs things "the dealer" did or parts you replaced in the hunt to fix you're issues. I as cuz I've worked on the parts side of a dealer when I was younger. It's not uncommon for a dealer to throw parts at something in the hunt to repair things. They are getting the parts at a better price plus some of it may be covered by the manufacture. They just want it fixed with the least amount of hours. . .parts can be secondary.

Hopefully things will calm down on the repair end once you get the issues sorted out. In my hunt for the hot start issue I really feel it was all about the starter but I upgraded the ring and pinion. Figure like Rich it may be needed at some point in the future. The flywheel although it didn't use loctite I did add some in the hopes I don't spin the key like others have. I think that more an issue of poor install or not properly fitted but eitherway I don't think it's an issue now.

Since doing the work I've put about 30 hours on it and shes doing great. I kick it from time to time as I think it's a good indicator of things but I use the estart and don't baby it.

My mechanic, who used to work for husqvarna, told and showed me all the parts. I don't have any Husky dealer here since selling to Ktm.
This last time I got all the parts on line by myself. Anyway I know what you are saying and I agree. I've seen all the work you've done.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/hot-start-issues-where-to-start-2012-txc310.43689/
He didn't use any loctite by the way. My mechanical knoweledge is basic, so I don't know if he's doing right or can install/fit better. When I picked up the bike, e-start worked perfectly.
It's just I noticed some little signs of stalling again ... and no way, prefer kicking like a wild horse than going thru the process again !
Is there any better aftermarket starter motor to replace the oem undersized starter ?