TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

just got back (score: 2 canada geese, a little black bear, crazy squirrel). Imagine the little store you're talking about is Berryvale Market.

if you're gonna be around town tomorrow afternoon, LMK and we'll do a quick ride. it's gonna be 84° in town but we'll be at 5000' so it'll be somewhat cooler. Redding is gonna be 94° ...which is considered cool down there. hah.

So there is a fix for the starter problem with the husky 310r that is good news very nearly trading my husky in for a 2st which to me are hardwork to ride especially after riding a 310r husky but think now I'll keep the husky ,Has anyone been told that the sprag clutch wears the flywheel then will burn out the starter motor which then means having to replace the Flywheel - Starter cog - Sprag Clutch - and Starter motor....... that's an expensive job !!!

Was reading your post I've a 310r myself was wondering how your bike is going any problems with it !, had to put a starter motor in mine recently and sheer'd the starter cog before that , bike going fine now starts very easily on the button and the kick .
Cheers..….…M

with my 2011 model it was about the gears we thought and they were replaced under warranty but the valve clearance which effects the auto de comp in the cam it is the most critical thing with these superb bikes get it right all runs smooth as the worm and wheel mate together things just get better with the e start

yes, you want the valve under the de-compressor a little tight.

I like it about .007" and have no problems on either of my x-lites,

Here nother tip:

Wrap your starter in heat shield tape. Cranks better hot. You can't touch hot engine but you can touch starter. Drops the temp quite a bit.

can i get a check that this part (8000 A7010) is the correct part number and will fit straight on a 2012 TE310
i also need to remove the starter and blank of the hole. as i to had a housing break off. (plus they are a crap design)

The item part number 8000 A7010 looks a little different to what people have shown/made up...

just need to be sure.... they are called 8000A7010 GEAR HOUSING CUP and are around AUD $50
https://www.firstclassmotorcycles.c...te-tc-txc-250-310/generator-cover#n_8000A7010

yeah, that's the one. it fits a te310 2012 along with just about every other xlite according to this page:
https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/part-number/8000a7010

$21 in the US. but I thought it was a plate- you're right, it's a bit more complicated.

wait... you had a housing break off?

give us some pics.... you might have a flywheel woodruff key that sheared.

ok cool. gee i wish there was a 3D model so i could look inside and see where they blank it off...

$21 in the US...if i order from motosports.com Plus shipping it comes to AUD $70.. so i may as well buy local around AUD $50

i'm pretty sure you could fab a blank out of 1/4" aluminum (6mm) that would work okay.

give me half hour and i`l post some pics.... break off maybe a little over done. smashed the housing mounts off, cracked the part where the DC motor goes in, bent the 5mm cap screws.... i`m done with this starter.... also paid a small fortune for a new DC motor 6 months back....
it`s crap!! .........i`m going kick only

as for wood ruff keys..... bloody hell.... yup in the past i have sheared 2 keys in 3 months or so.... this time it is ok(i hope) have not looked but the bike is running ok...

here is the link to my first woodruff key saga
https://www.dirtriderz.com/topic/15789-small-off-now-bike-wont-start-husky-2012-te310/

The sheared keys are at fault for breaking the starter housing more than likely. The worm gear is probably responsible for the key shearing.

here is a pic of the housing, this is after we "tried" to JB weld it all back together.... not going to happen... the force of a backfire just smashed it

You're probably gonna need a new worm and ring gear... they get screwed up easy but it can be hard to see. Well, except for the fact you're going kick-only. Once you remove either the worm, ring gear, or sprag, you're home free (realistically, all 3).

Usually the engine case breaks, not the bevel gear housing. But it's not unheard of by a long shot.

There's something in the state of tune or your riding style that's causing the motor to go backwards (momentarily) a bit more often than others; but it's not you fault- it's a piss-poor design.

Good luck.

If you wanna go totally mickey mouse, you could cut the bevel gear housing above the flange then glue a plate over the hole. Tack (or even glue!?) the flange ears back on. Use lotsa silicone or double gaskets and barely tighten the bolts (1NM). There's no pressure I think- oil is just flung by the ring gear.

It'd probably be easier to fab a block-off plate though. Use the gasket imprint as a template. Steel would also work fine.

If there is an oiling orifice up high in the starter drive train, it's probably for the worm or maybe the bevel gears (?). If it looks like it passes a lot of oil without the housing in place, restrict the flow or block it off (if the stator has another source) to maintain oil pressure.

I got curious about bevel gear lubrication so I looked around in the manual. Yep, there is an oil port in the bevel housing flange- and it looks like a one-way deal (meaning the housing is flooded and that's it; no outlet).

so blocking it off should have no repercussions on a kick-only bike. Number 10 below.

yes did read your breakdown of the problems / causes.... yup! that`s me...

so it`s kick only for my bike now, i have ordered the blank of cup and a new gasket.

it it absolutely necessary (or not at all?) to remove the ring gear and sprag? i would have thought it`s good to leave some weight on the flywheel, at least it cant do anymore damage if i have another backfire?

oh and the back fire was done with me idling, at a set of lights in neutral... i blipped the throttle (as you do, because we just do....) and bang it back fired..... maybe needs a tune? when riding at speed, it goes great no problems.

it made it home and ran normally (apart from the oil it lost through the cracked housing)

i have sheared 2 x wood ruff keys in the past.... so yeah i`m over this stupid,X-lite, worm gear, housing smashing device........

Lucky i have not damaged the engine casing....

keeping the the sprag and ring gear only add a little rotating mass, because most of it does not spin- unless the motor is going backwards (hah). leaving it in isn't a big deal either along as the worm gear is gone, I would think.

(probably now is a good time to mention I have no real world experience with any of this... just mind-experiments I have done as I muse about a curious problem. this one for 5 years. As soon as I realized you had broken the bevel gear housing, I was thinking sheared flywheel key)

A minor backfire at a stoplight really isn't a "kickback". Usually it's in the exhaust or intake tract. Unless, of course the key is sheared and the ignition is advanced.

[A minor backfire at a stoplight really isn't a "kickback". Usually it's in the exhaust or intake tract. Unless, of course the key is sheared and the ignition is advanced.[/quote]

i presume the timing must be OK as the bike when riding feels absolutely normal... i presume if the timing was out i would "feel" the bike being a little different...?

maybe i need to up the idle speed? to help stop that "blip" back fire? if i accelerate normally when taking off, it never stalls or flames out, runs fine...