TE 310 2011 ignition issue

At the moment i have this one. Its a while when engine warm up.

Temperature outside 3-4 celcius degree

I checked my X-lite TE250 and the results were similar to my old TE310. If I compare yours to mine:
- Spark Advance - 9deg versus 7 to 11. very close.
- Ignition Pulse width. 2.4ms versus 3.9/3.6ms. That's almost half the time period of my bikes.
- Water temp. the reading looks fine. my bikes were cold so read lower
- Manifold air temp. Yours is much lower but it's 1 deg outside. It's 30 degs here at the moment. I think 10degs above ambient is OK.
- Manifold pressure. Reads about 1/2 the ambient air pressure (100kPa or 15psi). That accounts with some vacuum due to the air filter and throttle butterfly being closed.
- Air pressure. Fine.

The other variance is your idle is 2438rpm whereas mine is 1900-2000rpm for 0% throttle. Try screwing in the airscrew to lower the idle rpm to 1900-2000 and see what that does to the Injection Pulse width. It could be too much idle airflow leaning out the mixture.

I'm not sure why the injection pulse width is half the time of mine. My bikes have a 4 port injector. Maybe yours has the upgraded 12 port version. Either way, lets start with screwing in the airscrew and see what the pulse width is at 2000rpm.

I have such a high idle speed because I have the impression that this motorcycle gets terribly tired running at revs around 1800-2000.


Even before the engine overhaul, it was so that in order to start the bike, I often had to turn the idle speed screw (to increase idle speed) and then unscrew it to get the revs to normal, so it was as if it needed more air.

Nevertheless, I will try to do as you wrote and connect the computer.

I have 4 point injection.

I'm surprised by the voltage on the battery, mine is lower than yours. I checked on Google and i have feeling that should be higher

This is engine start procedure at temperaturę 2 celcius degree:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BFGcol--t-RYuOLqlP2YFz_dj5b0ZrI7/view?usp=drivesdk

And this is when engine warm up:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fd-UwucbnT3X4CQkDCzRP1slpmgSKwz4/view?usp=drivesdk

In the second video you can see how after ignition it holds a lower RPM than set. After adding gas it jumps to the set rpm and stays there

During start-up, you can see that the computer significantly increases the injection pulse width. Means that it gives then much more fuel, I bet it is because of the low temperature. When the engine warms up, the injection pulse width is set at a standard level.

Interestingly, after removing the dBkiller, the low-speed problem is virtually non-existent. After firing up, it jumps right back to the set idle speed

Thanks for the videos.
1. Your battery voltage at 10.3V is a bit low. Maybe try another battery or put it on charge.
2. Once it's warmed up it sounds OK although the engine does sound rough. It's like "donk, donk, donk" with the occasional "brrrrrrr" smooth running. It's almost like it's firing the spark plug every 2nd time. This could be a pressure wave from the dBkiller causing back pressure. Not sure. It appears to go away when you rev the engine.
3. I have found the dBkiller does increase the exhaust back pressure and makes the engine stall easier.
4. Maybe the cold is part of the issue. If your motor is "powered-up" (open loop mode with exhaust oxygen sensor bypassed) then it might not adapt well to very cold inlet temperatures. Maybe put a heater in your garage and see what it's like if the ambient temperature is 20-25 degrees.
5. Time to fix your e-start as well...

I don't think anything is wrong now. All the sensors are reading within spec. The only other things I would check would be the camshaft timing marks and flywheel woodruff key. The TE250 I overhauled recently had a sheared woodruff key (retarded about 15 deg). It was VERY hard to start and was low on power. It also had inlet valves with zero clearance which didn't help.

Thanks for your reply.

1. the batery must have been undercharged at first because it jumped to 14V after a while.
2) The dBkiller itself makes that ringing sound because it doesn't sit super tight in the exhaust. I was thinking about this too, the dBkiller causes the pressure to build up and the air goes back to the head. Plus I have a leak on these parts:



I've already sealed it several times but it doesn't help for long because the cement although reinforced with mesh is crumbling away. When I bought it there was no this spring and so I drove it. Over time, either the inner tube wiped out or the outer tube stretched.

Hopefully normal temperatures will be here soon... although summer is still a good 4-5 months away.

5) I would love to fix it, the starter on the motorcycle tries to turn but fails. When the mechanic pulled it out by hooking it up directly to the battery it didn't respond at all and we gave up on it for now.

Regarding the timing, it would be enough to check the valve clearances now? I understand that if it would adjust it simply loses distance, there is no need to disassemble the engine?

My exhaust leaks like that as well. Not much you can do about it.

Regarding the timing, I was referring to the camshaft timing relative to the crank. This engine is a bit different to most in that the cam alignment marks are not in a horizontal straight line. I'm not suggesting it's a tooth out but given the bottom end was rebuilt I would double check to eliminate this as a problem.

Hi,

I'm back. I decided to do another test recently. Temperature in the garage around 3-4 degrees. I managed to start the motorcycle without adding gas, only with the hot start lever but with the silencer pulled out. Some time after the start, after adding gas and releasing it, when returning to idle it wanted to go out, but after a good warm up it passed.

My colleague noticed on videos that at startup at this ambient temperature fuel doses are very high. In my opinion, this is the automatic suction, the computer reads the low temperature and increases the dose of fuel and silencer compounds the problem because it does not allow sufficient airflow for the specified fuel. It would also seem to be confirmed by the fact that after letting off the gas and returning to idle, it suddenly starts choking and in order for it not to stall, I had to press the red lever, it simply flooded because the bike was running on suction.

However, there is another problem that I have not mentioned. It happened that after pressing the red button, which activates the entire ignition, nothing happened for about 5 seconds and only then did it catch. Once I left it at idle and it died after a while. Another time, I took it outside, drove around the yard and sometimes at idle and sometimes after I added gas, it would fail and the bike would go out completely or the ignition would disappear for a while and then come back on. Moving the cables at the steering wheel made the ignition come back on.

After all this, I removed the coil, cleaned it and protected with petroleum jelly. Since then I haven't noticed those long power outages. However, while recording these videos, it can be seen that several times I lose connection with the computer, even though the motorcycle does not go out, once after cranking it to high revs, I noticed that some of the displayed information disappeared from the display and suddenly came back, the motorcycle did not go out.

I'm still waiting for better weather to be able to test it in the field but these connection losses worry me. There was no such thing before. It appeared when I picked up the bike from the mechanic. He mentioned something about routing the wires differently because he didn't like the way it was before and I'm wondering if for example, the high voltage wire from the coil leads to interference in which circuit. I read something like that somewhere but I can't find it anymore.

I bought heavily abused TE310 2012 in parts. I've been rebuilding it for over a year now. Today is the day when I should be able to give it a first try to run the engine. I just realized there is a 400 kPa(4 Bar / 58 psi) pressure regulator valve in the fuel system. I wonder if this is the one that could have come from the factory or not. Shall I bother replacing it with 50 psi valve instead?
Thanks

It is possible that someone wanted to increase the power. I have no experience so I can not advise you, I know that in my case the pressure after changing the pump is 3.5 bar.