Here is what mine looks like now, if the photos upload OK. Sorry for the crappy cell phone photos. And Jtemple, thanks and go get your bike dirty!
Here you go, I cut off the stock fender right above the license plate light, and drilled a couple of holes to relocate the stock license plate bracket. I also cut the excess off of the license plate bracket - the two side tabs (must have had reflectors or something on them) and the reflector below the plate have been removed. You can't see them in the pic, but my license plate is affixed with some snazzy red zip ties.
After the group ride today, I'm going to tear into the right side of the engine: 1. Clean internal oil screen. 2. Replace oil pump seals for attempt #3 at fixing this oil leak. This time, some gasket sealer will be used in conjunction with a new metal plate, gasket, and o-rings. Last time, it was just a new gasket and nothing else.
Hey, since I'm a total DS newbie, help me out here. I know you can spoon your own tires on these things. It's not like a sportbike with tubeless tires where you need a machine to do it (which I have access to). However, I noticed the stock Karoos are tubeless tires. The bike has tubes in tubeless tires, which is fine. My question is this: Are the tubeless tires going to require a tire machine to take off when it's time to get new tires? I fully plan on getting tube tires from here on out, so I can manually change my own tires. I'm tired of paying for tire mounting. The bike does not have rimlocks on it. Once you switch to a tube tire, are rimlocks required? Are rimlocks going to throw off the balance? Do I need to balance the wheels once I start using rimlocks?
You can change them. You can also change tubeless tires, I do it all the time with spoons. You won't need rim locks if you go to different tires, and yes they will really throw off the balance. I balance my tires (since I have a balancer) for all bikes that don't have rim locks, but a lot of people don't even bother with balancing for the dual sports.
Rimlocks are only needed if you plan on running really low tire pressures (< 10 to 12 psi) . If you do decide to use them, mount them on opposite sides of the rim to balance out.
If you need to ride on a flat, an alternative to rim locks a friend mentioned to me....carry a few heavy duty zip ties. Just zip tie around your flat and the rim in a few places and it should get you back to where you need to be. Then just cut them off and change the flat.
Hello: If your pump cover is anything like my valve covers were(07 610) you'll go crazy chasing this leak If it was me, I would check the cover bolt holes to see if they were drilled through. If so, the oil could be pushing out through the threads. Also, take a piece of flat glass, I use a mirror so I can admire myself while I work. Hold a piece of 400grit sandpaper on the glass and gently rub the pump covers machined surface across the sandpaper a little. then take a look and see if there's any low spots where the sanpaper didn't hit. If so, keep gently running it over the sandpaper until you have a nice even surface, you can go to 600g paper to give it a nice finish. Whle the primary case is off and apart, get a "fine" flat mill file and gently run it across the mating surface on the case to see how flat that is, keep lightly running the file across the surface until it's flat too.(you shouldn't need a bunch of sealant on these beautiful Huskys). Now, if the bolt holes go through, you can get high temp. automotive thread sealant for those, and get 4 "6mm." copper washers for the bolts, add the new gasket and snug it up carefully and evenly. This should keep you busy for awhile, have fun and good luck.... Oh yeah, for you 610 guys with the leaky valve covers, that's how I fixed mine 2000mi. ago and the cylinder is still "bone dry"..... Happy Trails SA
I put a 14 tooth CS sprocket on, it is now 14-42, and still seems too tall to pull 6th gear. I think I am going to go 14-44 or 45 next. The speedo tracks almost exactly to my gps, which is amazing compared to my other bikes. Top speed is 85.7, GPS verified. At least it will lift the front end with ease in 2nd gear now, and if I do everything perfect (clutching it hard) I can get it up in 3rd for a nice long wheelie. I'd like to find a pipe.
With all the interest and anticipation, why have I seen the same TE-630 on the sales floor at a dealer in Loveland, CO on two consecutive Saturdays. Come on Colorado guys, go up there and buy that thing.
A bit more about the ride: It was my first off-road ride. Round trip from meeting place and back was about 90 miles. 75 miles or so of that was dirt & gravel. Gravel roads still make me feel uneasy, but as the day wore on, I got more and more comfortable. I came close to eating shit about 3-4 times on the ride. There were some monster ruts out there! This pic was the gnarliest section we rode. It was a "road", but I use that term loosely. We rode down into a valley and back up the other side. The pic is taken after I rode the section, and the guy on the hill was riding a V-Strom. He went down and tweaked one of his bag mounts. Props for even trying that section on that bike. He decided he didn't want any more of that and bailed out, though. I quickly found the value of all the cash I blew on real MX gear, especially leg protection. I was in mid "oh shit" moment in a rut, and stuck my leg out to save myself. Had I not been wearing MX boots and Asterisk knee braces, the least that would have happened was a pretty badly twisted ankle. I might have even tweaked my knee. I didn't go down, and didn't get a scratch. Had I been wearing even street boots, I'd be limping around today; I'm sure of it.
Anyone know if the FI is adjustable through the Ibeat Software or by other means? Just curious if it was similar to the other TEs.
I have no idea. I would like to find out, though. Eventually I'd like a single-sided exhaust system and a tune to smooth things out. Maybe it'll get rid of that surging everyone complains about (honestly, it doesn't bother me).
928 miles on the clock. I pulled the clutch cover and the internal oil screen. It was spotless. I have also replaced all of the seals on the oil pump cover. I used some gasket sealer (very little) on both sides of the gasket. The new o-rings also seemed a tad fatter than the originals. With the new stuff on, tightening up the cover very clearly compressed the new o-rings. Perhaps that was the issue with my oil leak. That's my 4th oil change on this bike already. I probably would have done 2 so far, had I not been trying to button up this oil leak.
I took it out for a ride tonight and I'm not totally convinced that my leak is fixed. There was a bit of oil on my finger if I ran it around the cover. Maybe the seals are just getting seated or something. I'll re-torque the bolts tomorrow or something. If it's still leaking, I don't think it's as bad as it was.
Have done approx. 800 kms and coming up to first oil change. Still totally dry. The dreaded "surging" is just to be expected and is no great worry. `Tis not a bike that particularly likes to trundle behind slow traffic. We´ve been having a heat wave and the pipes do get hot. Twin Arrows and slipper clutch are sitting there, waiting for the 1000 km mark to appear. Max speed is already somewhere over 6o m.p.h. Where does the carbon heat shield kit come from?? And who does a carbon skid plate?
