was the connection cable between tester and sensor very long? 3300 ohms seem so many. however I can measure the value in ohms and the respective temperature value that gives ibeat on my bike to make a comparison. to you at 3300 "ohms what temperature value from ibeat?
another question to understand better and my answer. when you connect ibeat to motion off and cold are differences on the screen between temperature in the intake manifold and temperature of the coolant? that value of 3300 ohms at 17 degrees makes me think that the sensor is faulty because with 3300 ohms you could think of a corresponding temperature .... much below zero (if we take my good, definitely working, which indicates 2200 ohms at 20 degrees). to answer your question on the starter lever, I tell you that by pulling the lever, the amount of petrol put into the engine increases. do you currently mount the lambda probe bypass connector?
I have thought the "starting lever" on the clutch master cylinder opened a secondary air passageway resulting in a faster idle. That it's effect was to very slightly "crack" the throttle open. Not as an enricher. ??? Bruce M
The lever opens a secondary air duct that bypass the closed butterfly valve. The air pressure sensor that is in the suction duct (inside the MAQS) realizes that there is more air and adds gasoline (mixture more fat gas) air via the injector. In this way the engine starts with the low temperatures
Well the temperature was cold that day but it was not below zero.. the thing is that the bike is cranking much slower with the lever pulled in and i dont understand why. this saturday I have removed the fuel tank to check / clean connections, after reinstalling the tank I did almost 20 prime cycles with the fuel pump and I still see boubles comming out from the pressure regulator inside the tank (Did it with the cap open), the fuel arround the pressure regulator looks like mineral water when I prime the pump. Any way to bleed the fuel system? And the last thing is that I think that last time the bike run it vapour locked the fuel line/filter/Pump... Im suspecting that my problem migh be fuel pressure / vapour lock, The bike always gets hard to start the first time after a long ride. I didnt install the PU kit / lambda bypass....
UPDATE: Today the bike started without much effort, I have connected the battery, primed the pump 5 or 10 times and it started without using the fast idle lever, just fiered up.... Now, when the bike is running, I constantly see very tiny bubbles comming from the pressure regulator inside of the tank. And by the way, I have already installed a iridium spark plug.
It is normal to see bubbles in the tank. they are the same ones that are created when you uncork a bottle of sparkling water. if you pump the pump 1 only once instead of 5/10 times it does not start?
The bike has been doing well for the past days and starts. Usually starts after priming one time, sometimes requires 3 primes to start. But after a hard ride (one or two hours) and after I let it cool completely it becomes very hard to start again. when is cold after a hard run, have to crank it for a very long before starts. BTW I have installed an insulating / reflacting sleeve on the fuel line, I suspect of vapour locking. Maybe I just have to install the PU kit (Lambda bypass) and adjust the fuel parameters...
UPDATE: The starting issue came back.... Bike is cranking very hardly, bearly cranks the engine and the battery terminals, starting relay / solenoid terminals, starter motor terminals get very hot. I have previously cranked the engine with a 160Ah car battery and it does not improve, it just cranks slowly. I suspect of: Starting motor. Starting relay / solenoid. Auto-decompression on exahust valve.
UPDATE (Again!): Apparently I have pinpointed the problem with my bike. I was reading different topics about starting issues until I found this one: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te-510-starter-troubles.23792/ The 450, 510 and 630 use the same cylinder head and apparently they develop the same starting issues related to the ADC (Autodecompressor) Is the bike is on the kickstand is very hard to start, if I lean the bike over to the right, then it starts inmediatly and cranks fast.
Here's my experience with a bad auto-decompressor. Entry #5 for a video of the failing decompressor, and entry #14 for a theory of why it happened. You can fix it with no new part by just switching the 2 rocker arms with each other. I too originally thought it was a bad battery until I installed a new one and the starter still couldn't rotate the motor. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/auto-decompressor-on-a-630.45551/#post-445854
HEllo People !!, im having issues with this toppic to. First problem: it is hard to start the bike when the engine is cold. I did charge the battery up to 100% but it doesn't start. The only way to make it work is using charging cables to another 12v battery. Than it starts easily. Second problem: It doesn't start on sea level with the engine hot or cold. Any clue where to start?
Just bought an 09 610 . Left it in the garage for two days and tried to start it on the stand kickstand . No go . Gradually wore down battery . Starting to wonder why I bought another FI husky . Put it on the charger came in and read this thread . Tried again on the stand - no go . Took it off the stand and sat on bike - started first pop . Yay . I think this thread has saved me some time.
