TE/TC Te300 open frame under neck between rads

Alot of draughtsmen can't actually think in 3dimensions.

I like the linseed idea thats ace, so once its boiled do you fire it in hot or cold? I assume an air compressor is used to spray it into the tubing.

Juicy,

It could be started out and done hot but not necessary. As it cooled down from the structure quickly.

Oxidation in the welded finger clusters of tubing areas were oxidized internally back in the day just from the heat. So this was necessary. But a repair later could drive a guy crazy because of the oil coating being inside.

The repair welds were a bitch to make if adding a tab or another part too, or doing a repair like fixing a crack because of the internal contamination from the linseed oil. It would skim coat the internal surfaces and was like a layer of paint and hard to get out or prepped for a clean weld.

Rotation was the best thing to do and let it just run around inside and then let it drain out as much as possible. Plugging of the access holes was done in several ways. Many of which could cause dissimilar metal corrosion later if not done properly.

A few cotton balls and a long handle hemostat would probably work fine for getting a coating in there. My 2 cents worth.

PS if you do a good frame inspection of the WP chassis there are "vent" holes in other locations as well.

Trust me i find engineers drawing to be wrong alot due to them not know how my job needss to get done in the real world OR no thought behind it for future maintenance. New safety rules from osha are actually more unsafe in some danger zones i have to put my self in to get job done. Some bosses dont even know really how we do what we do to get the job done, they would shit if they saw our techniques, osha would fine us i bet. If i followed all the rules nothing would get done timely. Im a extra high voltage transmission lineman

I have a FMF head pipe right in the way of the main open ended downtube on my FE501 and looked up in there with a mirror and a flash light. Nothing to worry about.
The pipes pretty damned close but the downtube is oval shaped, with about a 1/2" gap between the headpipe and open ended tube if that.

I already looked up into mine and I just tilted and laid a can of chain wax on its side and sprayed some chain wax up in there with the long stem skinny spray tip. It will protect the interior walls of that tube. The gas overflow tube runs through there also so it should always have some residue left behind. No worries !

It worked a treat. It stayed up in there and I did it about 3 times moving it around and tipping it back and forth. It didn't really drain off on the Ground. What did drain off was only a few drips and it burned off the headpipe in about 30 seconds.

I'd say I have nothing to worry about.

Im trying chain wax too since i dont yse it much anymore for my chain. My bike doesnt sit much and after a good pressure washing wd40 does a fone job. Some say it swells rubber orings but its never been proven unless it soaks or dunked for a long time. I dont like alot of crap on my chain, it stains swing arm (chain wax). And chain grease (champion brand) collects mud. Actually i dont think any lub is needed on oring, but i like wd40 after cleaning to rid water. Sorry, way off subject.
I will use wax up my frame near header