TE/TC TE300 passes the test

You can go into the manuals and spec out the EU homologated versions of these bikes, ex. throttle stops, ultra lean jetting, intake plates, along with hot plugs and the new 60:1 mix ratio for mega years the standard mix was 2% /50:1 and still is for most, even 50cc screamers etc etc ... its important for them to do so they can be homologated as street legal bikes for FIM enduro comp which for the euro brands is super important for sales and fan exposure

Tim,
What jetting are you running and at what elevations?

8

0-4000
38pj - (New version) JD red 3 scribe in the 3- 165mj - AS 1.25

300 and 250 are a slightly different kettle of fish when it comes to jetting. My '12 Husaberg TE250 runs great at '0-2000' ASL, with stock jetting and the needle dropped one clip position(stock 3rd from top, to 2nd from top). ScottyR gave me this info, from Alan Randt, at Enduro Engineering. Runs crisp and gets good mileage.

There is a lot of jetting threads on the ktm site. The Suzuki needles work exceptionally well on kato/husavarna motors

its routine fellas I'll get her dialed in, no worries

You should have gotten the same jetting kit that the KTM's come with. There should be an N4DK needle in there. I'm using that K needle in the 2nd clip: 35/7.0/N4DK-2/162 main. Air screw is 2.25 turns out. 1700-5000 feet. If you're running hard or very low altitude, you may need 3rd clip and/or 165-170 main. My friend has a 14 300 Six Days and runs the same but top/leanest clip. He likes it, but on my bike that was lean enough to lose a little off-idle grunt. I like second clip.

The bike runs noticeably better with just a touch of race gas mixed into the CA pump swill. I get Sunoco 110 locally, and put 1g race with 4g 91 pump premium and 50:1. Play riding we're getting 35-40 mpg. Yesterday we did an 82.4 mile ride and I was close to but not on reserve as we got back to the truck.

KTM has used the 7 heat range for several years now. You can run 7 or 8 just fine. True on their "generous" float level. Check it, change that needle, and go get some trophies!

OH! Another simple mod that really wakes up the Huskatoomaberg: The head mod. I bet your stock squish is around .072". Find Trey, MikeS, RB Designs, any of the good head shops, and have them clean that up but NOT raise the compression ratio. Mine is now around .045 (or .054"... I'm getting lysdexic) and that really crisps up the response and makes jetting easier.

GO WITH LECTRON !

no no carbby changes, the keihin has won alot of world championships including oa at the ISDE last year, but much respect for the suggestion and to you Vinduro. For one thing I am trying my best not to throw too much $ at this machine (except for bash proof stuff)
My float level was high, the float was past level with the base surface, up inside the carb body but I was initially misguided by all the older Keihin 36mm specs which were 16mm float height for the plastic and metal frame older style float assy.(from base gasket surface to bottom of float assy)
The newer almost all plastic float assy is lower profile and from what I find is factory set at 6.5mm but many KTM pilots drop it a bit to 7.5 -8mm to reduce spillage on steep stuff , I am at 10mm on my bench now and will do some more tweaks to the tab to get me to @7.5/8.
Anyone care to comment? Or suggest?
Also has anyone used Mr. Deans set up (JD Jetting). The Welshman gave me his kit to try, he said it made his bike too tame, he likes 300SX type power.....he has all the KTM race kit stuff on his 300.
I want pure enduro/ torque and smooth Beta300RR type power. I have made the Beta300RR my benchmark for what power I want.
PS dont get me wrong this bike is "sick" and it just helped me finish what can best be described at 70 miles of relentless hardcore rocky single track.

There's no need for a lectron on this bike! These carbs work great. I had one on my WR250 and it was perfect. And I've had a couple of KTMs with them too. Set the floats parallel to the edge of the carb body like the manual says, then fine tune your jetting.

I have this in my bike and I prefer it to the stock jetting.

Beta 300s run an NGK BR7 plug too. Jetting in the 36mm PWK is as good as it gets too and they do run excellent through the range on pump gas with a little Startron, not screaming for a head mod. The compensation/jetting chart provided is accurate as well. I have not felt the need to experiment beyond these recommended settings, and I have a lot of needles and brass. I think a lot of the Beta's nice power is more than the jetting, but in general the NECx/NEDx needles are the direction to go in. Stock Beta 300 jetting for 70 deg, 1000' is 165M, 35P, N2ZJ#3, AS 1.25.

Beta motor is all new, fresh tooling and good tolerances. GG tooling (cyl mold in particular) is 14 yrs old now. Supposed to be new for '14. They knew about the port dimmension variation a few years ago. KTMs seem more consistant per the year but may not what rider prefers. I'd try the Suzuki needles (NECx/NEDx). I bought the set anticipating the need, but after the first ride I was happy enough to cancel my Smartcarb order. Looked like it would be a tight fit / boot hack job on the Beta.

Yeah I'm sure that would be a much better fit. The thing is, in my case anyway considering the limited elevation and moderate temp changes, is it would be a solution is search of a problem. I certainly don't need any more power. I'd be all over it if it wasn't so good with the PWK.