TE310 Bogging

New to cafe husky. I have a 2014 te 310. I’m having trouble finding engine parts. I overheated my bike and need a oversized piston kit. Any info on where to get parts to rebuild engine would be helpful. Thanks

Where are you based? If you are in the USA then Halls Cycles is a good source of parts.

I will source another clamp tomorrow to try and fix this issue. I've attached a video of the throttle body being pushed backwards when revved. Still doesn't seem normal, looks like a fair bit of pressure coming back into the TB.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SQ0oMDGWCY

I am not doubting you, OTOH a lot of huskys have taken a big over-heat event (no water, pump failure etc) and come out relatively unscathed. Have you observed melted aluminum?

good luck.

It was the before, here is the after.

Left is the old right is the new.

What is the width of the new clamp?

UPDATE: So I decided to check valve clearances finally, and to say the least, they were a 'little' bit out of spec.
Husqvarna supplied specs are;
Intake Clearance: 0.15mm
Exhaust Clearance: 0.20mm

Measurements I made:
RHS Intake: 0.30mm
LHS Intake: 0.23mm
RHS Exhaust: 0.23mm
LHS Exhaust: 0.23mm

Is this causing not enough air/fuel mixture to go into the cylinder (bogging/flatspot on acceleration), and causing it to overheat as the exhaust gasses aren't escaping (sputtering and hard to start when hot)?

I wouldn't think that's the issue. If the gaps had closed up then I would have said yes.
Too large a gap simply means the valvetrain is noisier and the valves are open for a little shorter duration.

Q. Did you make sure the piston was at TDC when you measured the clearances?

Yes, the markings on the cams were in the right location, matching the instructions in the manual. What else could be causing my issues?

I would consider taking it to a husky dealer now and have them look at it with iBeat diagnostics.

I'm all out of ideas.

I've already had that done, they suggested replacing electrical parts etc. They weren't aware of the overheating issue however, might see what they say.

While I agree the valve adjustment should not make that much difference, it is always better to troubleshoot with the valves in spec.

Id tighten the intake valves a touch,

The black heads like the left intake valve a little on the tight side to help with starting in my experience.

The cam cap bolts are easy to strip. Don't over tighten. 40 in lb works for me. Use a 1/4 torque wrench.

Engine sounds so much quieter with the valves in spec. Still has the flat spot/bogging issue. My Husqvarna dealer reckons I have an issue with spark. Possibly the stator. Is there any way I can easily test that?

So I tested the stator winding resistance, and it was correct and in spec at 0.6ohms. Is there anyway the stator could still be failing? Not sure what other components could be failing at this point.

Hello, at the end, could you solve this problem? Im having the exact same problem, I just dont have a way of acquiring the iBeta equipment to run the diagnostic tests on my 2011 TE310

I changed out the stator and voltage reg/rec and that seemed to improve it. Hope this helps