TE449 crankshaft locking tool/valve checking

No, two are common - two are these weird half moon deals. Ive not been exposed to a ton of motors, but EVERYTHING in the past has been something that I could buck up and for $40-60 get a really nice kit that lets me do everything on the fly.

I hate tearing something apart then waiting while I order or have to drive out and get parts. I am lucky that I have a shop within an hur - for folks 3, 4, 6+ hours away - they get to wait days with their motor apart.

I DO like that they have stayed out so far - fingers crossed there.

The original question was never answered. My question is the same. Is locking the crankshaft at TDC with that "special tool" the only way to do this? Is the "special tool" just a long bolt? Does anyone have this "special tool" ???

s the "special tool" just a long bolt? Does anyone have this "special tool" ???[/quote]
Actually I answered it in post #14 to this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te449-crankshaft-locking-tool-valve-checking.28976/#post-379853

Actually I answered it in post #14 to this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te449-crankshaft-locking-tool-valve-checking.28976/#post-379853[/quote]


That method works well enough. Still wanted a glimpse of this special tool, but no worries. I just used a long bolt.

You can use metric all-thread.

That's essentially what I did. And when my bike shows up in Hesperia on Wednesday, and if you're around, you'll see it. It'll have a box of all the parts I've removed from it to get down to removing the cam shafts. The crankshaft is locked in at TDC... the top end is in a few pieces... nothing is broken, except the parts that died from heat exposure and lack of cooling oil.......... it'll all be there Wednesday. Can't wait to drop it off and see what goes down.

Greetings:

It's been a while, but I hope that I may be allowed to get the ball rolling again.

I just had a clicking sound start suddenly, and I am wondering if it may be that either a valve shim or ball was tossed. I would think that valve clearances gradually opening up would cause a gradual increase in clicking audible-ness (?). I have just under 4,100 Km on it in 48 months. Think I need to check valve clearances, or might it be something else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Something else I was wondering about is, when I look at the range of shim/ball thicknesses in the parts catalog, the minimum/maximum thickness ranges are .7 and 1.1 mm, respectively. To me, that seems so small that it makes me wonder if it's even necessary to adjust anything at all. I am skeptical that a .15 mm adjustment (for example) makes a noticeable difference with regard to longevity. Any thoughts?