TE511 - crappy pot metal shifter keeps loosening. Aftermarket Replacements?

I guess i shouldn't bitch. I could be riding a Ural ...

Off topic, but what foot peg sliders are those in your picture? I need em!

I found an 8mm socket on a 1/4" dirve bit with a low porfile ratching wrench works best fot the shift lever bolt.



$10 at Lowes on sale

Sent Driven some photos of the shifter for older huskies compared to the shifter on the 449/511 and they've indicated it's on their todo list.

UFO Peg sliders Husqvarna fitment, under $15 if you can find a set. They're crap though, they wear away real quick when you sen your bike down the road unmanned.... Alright if you're just scraping pegs though.

I used a Snap-on ratcheting 8 mm box wrench for my shifter if it makes things easier for anyone out there who wants to make sure their shifter is snug...

Hmm...now you have me thinking...I'll have to look at it when I get home

No it is a regular head bolt. I just cound not fit a regular ratchet or a box wrench on it.(no cleanace around the frame) The photo I linked turns an 8mm socket and drive bit into a low profile ratchet.

The bolt on mine is a hex head with an allen socket also.

My bad I was referancing my bike a TXC310 forgot it was a 449/511

No offence intended, but it is obvious you have not actually had hands on (and the accompanying headache) on this item.
On the other hand, I have been under this thing enough to confirm that this is a 8mm hex head bolt with a 4mm allen also.
The problem lies with clearances both for access and to effectively turn this little mo'fo' of a bolt...
a hex head box end wrench can only be turned about 30 degrees at a time as the perimeter frame limits turning the wrench, and as a result making it virtually impossible to get effective torque on it (I used two separate box ends to do the work as they each had separate offsets and could be turned from different angles ... What an incredible pain in the ass).
An allen wrench is just as much of a pain in the ass, using the typical L shaped key, the short end has the same problems as the box end wrenches as one cannot turn the bolt very far without running into a frame component. and trying to access the bolt from below using the long end of the allen wrench is impossible as the lower part of the frame lines up exactly with the bolt resulting in an offset wrench in the allen key hole at the top of the bolt, which in turn ends up in stripped bolts, curse words, and thrown tools.

Of course it is really simple to do if all you have to do is describe it online, and not do it.

IMHO, the engineer that designed this is a real prick and should have to make house calls whenever any of us experience this issue ... LOL

The ratcheting box end 8mm wrench is the best idea I have seen so far. A flex end would be even better.
Unfortunately, I didn't have one of those around so I did the above described circus act.

I would add that taking off the chain did help somewhat for access and seeing what you are doing, at least in my case.

I hope you, and others never, ever have to deal with this little gem. It sucks ...

You won't get an 8mm ratcheting spanner on there, the ring is too big to fit between the bolt head and the shifter body. I think I took a blow torch to an allen key to bend it 45 degrees so it'd fit in there better. In the workshop manual they show a picture with some sort of flexy/bendy socket, can't remember exactly.

That is pretty much the fix right there.
Like I said, completely standard fix and not a pain at all...
I am going to my local tool store tomorrow and see if i can find a flexy bendy wrench to make this procedure less of a pita.

I used a T allen key - no problems!

Just be careful is you use a ball end allen key as the bolt likes to round off due to the small contact patch.