TE511 or TE449 Dead Throttle Question?

Do you mean absolutely nothing, or as if the second stage is not coming on ?

OK Spud, lets start with my observations from a previous post I put up.

Kayaba Fork TE449/511
In the 2011 TE511 the standard fork rate is 0.46 Nm (also equates to 0.47 Kg).
I suggest that the valving is out rather than the spring. It is relatively harsh on the small trail debris at the very first part of the stroke, tends to blow through the mid stroke rather quickly and then hit a wall at the end that never seems close to bottoming out. Recently I had Racetech put a full Gold Valve package in, with all valving reviewed and amended. I specified a quick trail riding set up, rather than a clubman enduro racing set up with the valving and they nailed it.

To say that it has been a revelation for me as to how good the new action is now, is an understatement. No spikes in any part of the stroke and now progressive through the mid stroke.
I have since slightly upgraded the spring rate again to a Racetech 0.48 Kg/mm. I installed all the preload rings (4) supplied with the springs. This has been a small step forward again but perhaps the standard springs are still OK at 0.47 Kg/mm. After again experimenting with clickers whilst riding yesterday I still ended up back where I started (at what Racetech recommended).

Compression 12 out and Rebound 10 out.

Over to you Spud.

SAM511

Acts like 2nd stage failed to respond and so did the ability to fuel the bike! You can hear some part of the throttle open like it was starving for fuel but nothing like a typical carb bike would with a open throttle and no fuel.

Fit tc449 forks problem sorted back to you sam.....lol


Guys, the airbox ive been told today it is restrictive. The guy who told be runs a supermotard team and the exhaust we all know about is another restrictive part. The modification to the air box lid ,hes cut a hole just above the stick on heat shield about 10mm by 30mm. Ive done this my spare airbox lid and used some sump guard foam along with a home made plastic bracket to hold all in place.......thought you might be interested

Sam

You're a good man.... at this point the bike is too much of an animal for my limited skills.... there's so many things I like about the bike however the twitchy power delivery does not suit my limited skills.... to give you an idea i rode my mate's huseberg FE570... while the thing is an animal it has very controlable power(heavy flywheel)... you can chug all day long over the techincal stuff and not be afraid it will throw you off.... if however you crank it further hold on cause you arms might detach... as for stalling you'd have to be towing a trailer up a hill so to speak.... I suppose i'm after a low down torque monster.... i must say though i felt the 511 was much much smoother and refined than the berg... the berg felt kind of rattly and old..... the 511 seems to rev out much easier.... anyway I'm selling my bike to a husky enthusiast...hes picking it up today, I took a hit and sold it pretty cheap but i want to move on to a grandpa bike.... As for the stalling issue, when i reset the TPS as per your instuctions the bike behaves pretty well, as i said earlier after a while it needs to be done again.... i don't want to have to reset it every hour.....so in conclusion I'd like to thank you for your info which i will pass onto the new owner.......sad to see the bike go... time for grandpa bike.... All the Best to you....

Bill

Thank You for your kind words Bill.

I must say that a 2012 FE450/570 Husaberg would be my choice if I was not happy with my TE511. I always want a project bike when I choose a new motorcycle. In any bike there is a great bike in there somewhere if one is an enthusiast and loves to think and tinker with their bike to improve it and get it perfect. If we all wanted a safe option I guess we would all be on KTMs but there is nothing better for me personally than my TE511. I have tinkered with a lot and I think I have got it just right for me.

CTS with the rear linkage and Kayaba Suspension is perhaps the main reason I bought the bike in the first place and I still feel my decision was justified. There were issues that I worked on to maximise the chassis ballance with the CTS effect but I think I have nailed it. I also had the view that there is so much information out there on Kayaba Suspension with the tuners that it would be easy to get that right and I believe that I have nailed that also.

I love my TE511. Extraordinary bike in many ways.

Good Luck Bill with whatever you decide.

SAM511

Hey Sam

I rode a Yamaha wr450f today....the guy who bought my bike bought his over so i could try and see how it feels.... again , not as smooth as the husky. nowhere near.... power wise not even close.... the husky rips... torque wise and easy low down putting yeh... it felt very drz like.... ... truth be told i've only recently tried a few other bikes and realised what a refined machine the husky is....so I agree with you sam its an extraordinary machine in many ways.... I to love the CTS ... It makes so much sense to me for the spocket and pivot point of the trailing arm to be at the same point.... no chain stretch less wear etc etc... mate I'll tell you why i sold the bike despite loving it as well....

1. wanted softer suspension..... sure can be done buts costs to get the suspension tuned....
2. wanted less wild power .... a JD tuner can tame it but also power it up.... money again
3. wanted a wide ratio box, a low first and a resonable final drive (can't do that) Instead change to 13t sprocket now it screams at high speed above 60km/h
4. want lower seat height . easy done, shorten the shock like on 2012 model 20mm lower seat height -more money

This bike has all the good stuff on it but for me to get it suitable for my tight trail riding and limited skills would cost a decent amount of time and effort and money .... This guy who bought my bike was very comfortable on it instantly.... its such an animal but I cant handle it.... i respect the build quality and agree its an awsome bike. its just that fear takes away my joy.... so bye bye mr 511 and who knows whats next? likely the tractor called FE570 Although im spoilt by the smoothness of the husky.... it really has a new age feel

Sam thanks again it been a pleasure....

Bill

"Updating this thread where the original topic was originated, Sorry for the duplicate postings."

This past weekend I rode my 2011 TE511 on the 1W17 Malcolm Smith Trail in Southern California about 8.1 miles, 5PM in the afternoon, cool about 72 deg. Awesome trail ride!
During the ride on the Malcolm Smith Trail 3 failures when I needed instant power response from the TE511 on the 1W17 trail to clear rock face or deep rut and found myself with a big surprise! I had to let off the throttle and hit the throttle again! What I call a Dead Throttle response on the TE449 / TE511.

To compound the trouble, the constant hill/ Rock climbing, low to mid speed trail riding the bike reached about 202 Deg during some sections and seem to start loading up when you needed power the most and stalled allot. Should start a new thread on this issue! I learned allot talking to some well known Pro's around Southern California why this happens!

After my 1 hour solo trip, I blasted back to camp. During the 7 mile return from Crab Flats to Big Pine, about 7 times hitting the throttle to Rip out of a corner the TE511 failed to respond on very quick 1/2 to 3/4 throttle rotations! I was trying to stick some Corners and practice railing some turns! That's a really bad average for a TE 511 2011 bike that is only a year old this month!

Trips across Johnson Valley, Anza Dual Sport Ride, Bishop Dual Sports, Trips to Ocotillo Wells, Big Bear Dual Sport Rides Day and Night Same Issue. When you really crack the throttle to lift the front end off the ground to save your tail from a Rut or climb a rock face my EFI TE511 should give me the power quickly, however the bike responds with a dead throttle until you return to ideal and hit the throttle again! Very Random I must add!

I have seen this No Throttle Response issue on the TE511 over the past year of my Ownership with no real solution.

Next weekends trip, I will purchase an additional GoPro, bolt this on the handle bars just to monitor the throttle action and sound response from the bike on my next ride! Since this will be one of those cannot duplicate issues, GoPro works great to cancel those type responses from the dealers! Every time this happened during past rides I am looking forward and trying to dig my tail out of a situation and the helmet GoPro has not captured these problems to date! I will fix that!

For those mechanical questions everyone is asking:
This specific 2011 TE511 Bike has returned recently from Malcolm Motorsports and I was told all the problems were solved this time!

My 2 cents on the TE511:
Most of us paid allot of money for our bikes and the solutions outlined in every forum for the TE449 TE511 troubles are, Race Map 2 jumpers and expensive aftermarket Parts that will void your manufacture warranty. Under these conditions why doesn't the manufacture have solution or have recalls to these well documented problems listed all over many different forums and provide solutions that work?

Positive News: (Edited)
I was Following some other posts, this trigger my thoughts to start observing how the grounding configurations on the 2011 TE. I found the Throttle Body, Throttle Cables and Handle bars are not grounded. I followed the path for ground back to the source, well.... I am not trying to second guess Husqvarna Design engineers or claim a wrong doing. I am just looking for a FIX to long time problem! Things like Triboelectrification or asymmetrical friction and Coehn's law. Does this have any merit in this problem I will leave to HV design engineers. Thought I would toss in my thoughts.

In my profession, intermittent problems and/or noise around sensitive electronics can typically be related to poor or improper grounding. I was kicking an idea around, nothing to loose but a few bucks, a little time, so Lets ground everything. I installed a new ground from the Battery (-) to the subframe bolt. I used the subframe bolt as my common Point since the Battery terminals are weak. I Needed a good point to connect multiple ground cables from and the subframe bolt was easy choice. Off the Sub Frame Bolt I installed a new ground to the Engine (Where the Coil ground wire connects), installed a New cable to the Throttle Body Bolt and a new Ground to the Front of the bike.
Conclusion,
One weekend in the desert after grounding everything, Bike starts faster and smoother and no throttle issues. Next weekend, I cruised around the desert again, miles of whoops and desert trails. By now I have over 100+ miles in two weeks. Gorman GP was only a week away and thought this would be a great test. I signed up and off to the GP event Gorman Ca. Lots of turns, shifting, quick accelerations and put the bike to a test. Again, Bike Run flawlessly even laying on the ground horizontally in the dirt, the bike would not quite or stall .

While the solution I have posted has solve my case, would be nice to find additional TE Owners with Electronic or Mechanical experience willing to try this possible grounding solution.

Anyone that has experienced the snap of the throttle and the surprise that follows knows exactly what I am talking about! My Final test run will be the LA Barstow Vegas run. After 480+ Miles with no throttle issues, I will be convinced grounding had a role in the solution. Currently I feel good about the solution and the Bike is running perfectly, no stalling, smooth running and starts right up hot or cold and in Gear!

desertyucca, can you send us some pics of your groundings? sounds interesting

I will not be back in Yucca Valley until this weekend. I will replace the test wire, ugly THHN green wire with some Flat braided wire. I will take some photos while I conduct the install.

http://www.gacopper.com/Braid-Strap-Wire-Comparison.html

Very nice, I will have to order some braid and reground my 511 as well. I did have only one flame out this weekend at Gorman on a low rpm technical. For me, moving that coil ground may have reduced my flame outs, but I would certainly love to solve the issue. Also my engine ran much cooler from my other mod and I know that heat has a direct issue on the harness.

Have you all checked and done this? http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-ignition-ground.28115/

Next weekend I hope to provide a new improved install that would be worthy of photos for the grounds

Photos of the Test Cables I run. Link below.
Install at your own risk. Photo link should provide an Idea of the configuration that so far seems to have worked well. I was out maybe $35-$40 in cable & connectors.
https://plus.google.com/photos/1059...ms/5809951606527668177?authkey=CL78wtKXxvSzYQ

Notes for the cables install,
I installed a 10 gauge flat wire from the Battery (-) to the Sub Frame Bolt's (Clean the connection for paint and oils). From this location I installed #10 to the Engine and #12 to the Throttle body for the test Used Both Subframe bolts. Optional Cable, I also pulled a #10 Ground to the Front of the bike, for other uses like GPS, USB Charger, HID, Bar ground, other modules.... MY handle bar ground theory... is for those riders that replace the throttle tube with aftermarket throttle tubes that are not plastic. Now your throttle cables are loosely grounding to the handle bars with a metal alloy tube collecting Energy and these metals move. Most bars are insulated by the triple clamps. Would this cause any issues? Probably not until you crash and pinch a 12 volt wire then send this current flow to the throttle body via the throttle cables then to ground.
Keep in mind, all these grounds are experimental with some analysis put into the concept. Some grounds added to the Bike will never server any purpose. My 2 Cents, Ground wire is cheap and provide me a piece of mind!

Cheers

Where is your attach point for the brown coil ground wire?

Had not moved the coil ground illustrated in the photo link. Currently the coil ground is Paired up with the Green Ground wire for the initial test. This weekend my plan is to configure a new ground system that is simpler, cleaner and uses flat braided ground wire.