TE630 clutch, loses its smoothness and becomes abrupt in tough terrain...

Matpoc, yes, the problem goes worse when oil gets hot, that's why I'm very suspicious than the last 4 liters tins Castrol sintetic 10W50 that I bought is not the same quality as it used to be... I don't know why

So I'll order Motorex 10W60 rather than 10W50. I chose motorext because I can order it at the same time I order the spare parts (to the same dealer)

So, step by step may be I should try (from cheaper and easy solution to a expensive and complicated one)

1.- Change oil brand. If it doesn't work...
2.- File basket's grooves. If it doesn't work...
3.- Change disc plates and springs. If it doesn't work...
4.- Put the bike into a garbage can

the advice I can give you is not to turn on the cold motion with the pull clutch.
I excluded the safety switch that does not allow the start if the clutch is not pulled .....
in the picture I explain better

Hi, Rotax

95% I start the bike in neutral so I don't need to pull the cluth lever. Only in special conditions (tough terrain, when leaving the bike in neutral is difficult or even dangerous)

Thank you for your advice anyway

Filing basket grooves is not bad idea, I would not try to make them totally flat, just radius the high spot edges, it will prevent plates from hanging up on the edge.
If you decide to follow #4 let me know which garbage can, I will be there to collect it

Just noticed you in Madrid, long trip to collect the junk
Stay Safe! News says you have fires on one side and protests on the other.

Unfortunately my and probably those sold in Italy for safety issues do not start unless you pull the clutch even if the engine is in the crowd.

They all have a clutch safety switch for starting. If the bike is in neutral anyway it's a non-issue.

Are you sure it's clutch chatter and not chain-drive chatter? If you lug this motor in rough terrain they do that.

Sorry, I don't understand at all what you mean

Some call it the 'chug'. If you try to ride or accelerate up a rocky hill at low revs you'll get a lot of chattering, clutch and chain chatter, action from the slipper clutch. Tighter slipper springs and/or thicker spring cup washers will eliminate some of this, but it's doing what it's supposed to do.

I'm just throwing this out there on the thought that perhaps what you're experiencing is normal, or due to trying to baby the bike along. This is one of those 'ride it like you stole it' bikes - so run the piss out of it and see what it does. [shrug]

Doesn't look likr a "slipper" clutch to me

According to the mechanic and without a doubt -he says- what I'm experiencieng is due to the grooves in the housing clutch. So he suggested me to file them.

But now -as I explain in the thread "help me, debris... " the clutch housing is broken (and also the spring cover plate) so I have to buy a new one (both pieces and the inner washers, I guess round about 400€), although still I'm waiting to the dealer for springs cover plate price, as well as to get me the suitable rivets...

I have explained that the aluminium of your clutch housing could be welded

Yes, I know and I apreciatte your advice. But neither the mechanic nor me trust in a welded clutch housing. First of all I have to find a very expert aluminium welder, as the area he has to weld is not an easy one. Please, look the pic, where you can see that the broken area is bigger that I thought.



Second the holes for the rivets now are wider that before to 1mm (please, look the pics)





And so, I wouldn't be relaxed at all knowing that this welded piece inside the engine is spining at big speed...

new basket seems the only way

What has happened with your clutch is very disappointing, after filing the notches you might have got 10000 more km's. The oversized holes have killed it.
How well the crack would weld would have depended on the quality of the cast aluminium, if was decent quality i would have been confident with the strength of welding.

speaks with a good aluminum welder.
by welding it to T.I.G. it should be an excellent job

BTW, Rotax, As you come from Italy, is there a way to contact with SWM spare parts dealer? This way we could compare spare prices with the ones that now sell KTM group for the "red-Italian Huskys". Is a fact that since KTM sell Huskys spare parts, they have increased the price quite a lot (round about 20%)

330€ (taxes included) for the clutch basket is a lot

Thank you

320 in spain?

http://www.endurorecambios.com/recambio-original-husqvarna/12464-800084424-campana-embrague.html

Give me a pair of days

Sure!, this is the dealer to whom I buy the spare parts in Spain. As you can see, 320€. He is a good guy and he is not guilty of the high prices, of course.

Anyway I'm going to order the spare parts to him. as soon as I have an answer about the rivets. What concerns to me more are the rivets, I'm still waiting for an answer to the question, Can you get the correct ones? Look the pic: the ones he sent me are the above ones; the right ones are the bellow ones...