shall i clean the oil i put all around the perimeter or just the one on the half-round cutouts ? What Permatex number do you use ? Thanks so much for your help.
I think yes, clean up the entire gasket surface/gasket. If I recall, the manual instructs on where the sealant should go, and I think it's just in the half moon areas, but check the manual to be sure. I used Permatex ultra black, no 598BR. It's ok to use a few little dabs to hold gasket in place in the cover to make it easier to install.
The problem persists. After putting new shims for the intake valves, checking again the tolerances for the 4 valves, closing cover, connect everything back. Te bike started first go. After 2-3 minutes it stops and would not start again. The day after, first thing in the morning, bike starts runs for another 2-3 mins and stops. No way it would start again. So I emptied the oil, check the magnet bolt and just discovered a few shaving (very few). I would say this is the normal quantity. Now just if this gives a clue: between start and start attempt, and with the key on, the fuel pump would only sound the first attempt, not the following ones, until i turn the key off and on again (or if i use the red emergency switch) then i hear the pump, but only first start attempt. Now, if i disconnect the spark plug, the pump sounds after every attempt. So i ordered the cables and connector to be able to plug a computer and do some checks. I am also considering taking the bike to a professional.
That priming of the fuel pump is normal - it primes on ignition key not every time you hit the happy button. I would check fuel supply - clean the stop-cocks as they normally have filters as well. Check that your gas tank breather pipe is not blocked causing airlock.
Ok, next thing i'll do is check the fuel supply. Seems easy enough. Just to add more info, this bike was drowned completely in a clean river for about 30 min. This happened 2 years, 8.000 km ago. After the drowning i opened and dried the air filter, took the spark plug out, lifted the bike so that as much water could come out through the exhaust. Push the bike downhill in 6th gear a few times. After 1 hour i managed to start it and took it straight home. Emptied oil (which came white) and changed it 2-3 times until it came out clean. Wonder if this is now having secondary effects on any internals (wearing out rings, etc...).
If it has been fine for 2 years i would doubt it - I would say fuel or fire … gas or spark. Fuel starvation or ignition breakdown (coil, voltage regulator, HT lead…)
All this messing around and you still haven't figured if its spark or fuel! How can you fix it if you don't have an idea where to look? When it shuts off do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on? Did you pull the plug wire and check for spark? This is so easy, thumpers are so simple.
When it dies and wont start spray some starting fluid or choke & carb cleaner in the air intake with the filter removed. If it runs on starting fluid then it's not the spark and you have a fuel problem. If it doesn't start pull the plug wire and plug a spark plug in it outside the engine and crank while looking to see if there is a spark. At this point you will have at least cut in 1/2 what the problem might be spark or fuel.
Yes i know this is on-going for some time. The problem is that the bike (TE630) is not at home in Madrid, but on a house i have on the country. So i do not have the time, and can only go there on sporadic days. You know, work & family are #1 priority. Wish i had more time for my bikes (also have a CRF450X and a R1200GS). The lack of tools in this house, opening, doing valves, getting the shims, etc has taken most of the time. I'll go there again tomorrow and will dedicate some time to the TE630. I have now received the cables, connector and will take the ibeat installed in a computer. So i'll check the 'fuel & fire' & electronics. Yes I hear the the fuel pump prime when i turn the key. The spark is ok, but i got a new one just in case. I have carb cleaner, and will get some starting fluid. So lets see if this weekend i am able find the problem. I'll let you know. Thanks for the advice. This forum is great !!
My bike would not start at all at one point. One problem was a broken/fried/malfunctioning jd jetting power device. I unplugged that and bike started right up on stock ecu settings...runs just as good if not better and gets more km's per tank even with air box mod and Yoshi exhaust. Second issue was rectified when I adjusted the decompression/hot start lever next to cam cover. Started right up...hope this helps.
I found that 1. the gas tank breather pipe was blocked and this caused vacuum. When i remove the tank the gas link with the bike squirts some gas here and there when moving it. So the situation is still the same, bike would not start even with the gas cap open (i have also removed another screw acting as air vent). I have seen some posts specifying this vacuum issue might have caused a permanent damage in the pump... i wonder. Is there a way to check the pump indeed needs replacement? What part should i change ? 2. the ibeat shows some historical messages like "water temp too low". When erasing history the message does not seem to come again. The one time i had an issue with the water temp sensor the neutral was blinking. Anyway i will order a new temp sensor and install it. I will also check the temp sensor wiring.
The one time the quick connect between the fuel tank and the intake body disconnected itself on my bike, fuel was squirting out until I shut the engine off. So I would think this is a quick and easy way to check if the fuel pump is working. Also, there are 2 valves on that fuel tank. What are the chance that they are almost closed?
yes -. i put a new spark plug in place. Also tried to check in disconnecting the spark plug and plugging another spark plug on the outside ... i did no see a spark when trying to start the engine. I wonder if one should very clearly see a spark. I did not have a tester, so next time i'll check the coil resistance with the tester... -. removed the air filter, put carb cleaner first and then sprayed with quick start liquid. No luck.
Then you have a no spark ignition problem so you can forget about the fuel until you solve why it's not sparking.
Josem, testing the ignition coil should definitely be your next step. But even before you do that, check that the wire coming from the ignition coil and going to the spark plug boot is actually threaded onto the spark plug boot and has tension. Do these two things I and I am certain you will find the issue at hand.
Did you make sure that the spark plug was grounded/earthed when you tested it? It must make contact with the engine - just ensure the hex part touches. You should see a strong blue spark. Have you checked the starter fuse etc? You can download a workshop manual off the net and it will give you specs for checking coil, etc. First make sure the coil lead contacts are clean and secure. Also check the battery leads likewise and that the earth is secure to starter etc.
Yes BigDom, i checked the spark plug making sure it was earthed with the chasis and tried also with the black battery connector. I see no spark at all. I also checked the fuel pumps squirts some fuel every time i connect ignition with the key. So i checked the coil cable and connector. Could not find anything strange. Without the connector, the coil gives 12 volts. Next i will remove the coil and do the tests specified in the manual. As well as checking spark plug connector to the coil. Besides that, is there a way to test the connector end going back to the CDI ? i loose the cable from sight and wonder if there is a fault in that end, but do not want to undo all the cable 'complex' workout.
Did you check the the spark plug cap - the one at the end of the HT lead that clips over the spark plug? Check that it is not corroded inside, and that it is screwed into the HT cable securely. Change the spark plug to a brand new one even if the present one is relatively new. I am guessing this is a simple solution once you find it. Double check all fuses and contacts on relays, especially the starter one.
So i checked all fuses again. They are ok. I had the coil removed. All connections to the bike frame were earthed and seemed to be ok. The coil primary winding resistance seems to be ok (4.9 Ohm manual specifies 4.5 +- 15%). When trying to measure the secondary winding resistance i do not get any reading at all. The spark cap seems ok at 4.9 KOhm. So i think i would need a new coil...is this something normal to fail ? One thing. The coil and the spark cap seem to be wired together in one same part, but the parts catalog lists them as different items. I had them separated by pulling the cable out from the spark cap, but cable came out broken....then i peeled the cable further to check the resistance. Is there a connector inside the plug cap that connects to a connector the end of the coil cable ?
