Bike has been used off road. Also noticed at 100kph it now revs at 4250rpm (with std box 4000). At 105 kph it revs at 4500rpm. With std box it seemed much easier to get from 100 to 120kph.
Umm.......only gearing changes (or tire size) can change the RPM's a bike runs at a given speed.........unless your clutch is slipping.
any one have to part number for the foam uni filter that will replace the oem air box setup? i ride road only with my strada and couldn’t detect any dust so i’d rather not rip my throttle body cover to bits and do the pod mod.
The online product catalog for Uni Filter indicates that they don't make anything for it. You might wish to e-mail them with an inquiry about it. Hi-Flow makes a paper replacement that is less expensive than OEM. Not sure if that is available in the U.S. They seem to be available in Europe.
I I'm pretty sure that Unifilter Australia (a separate company to Unifilter in the US) makes the foam filter for the TR650. Their page claims that they are the only foam filter supplier worldwide for the TR650. There are links on this page for suppliers in other continents. https://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d367_HUSQVARNAADV.html
https://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d367_HUSQVARNAADV.html this will replace the paper filter but not the "air box setup" and will not help to better seal the airbox. Can you explain what you mean with "oem air box setup"?
That Aussie Unifilter works with the 3D printed air box mod. So essentially you have a different "door" entrance to the airbox which is designed to accommodate the Unifilter. I've been using this system since the bike was virtually new. 1 day of dirt riding was all it took to fowl my air box & throttle body!
installed mine when the Terra was new and had no issues with dirt since. Needs additional work to seal the airbox but i prefer it over the pod-mod.
OEM meaning the stock setup that came with the bike. I just hate the idea of cutting into the throttle body shroud but people say it makes a difference with the way the bike performs. REALLY? I can see if you ride dirt this is necessary but...Does anyone have that 3D printed air box mod for sale. I could see doing that as a better solution and still maintaining easy access for filter servicing. I don't ride dirt.
OmG is that cool or what!? Who's got one of those I can purchase or trade? There are some seriously handy people on this site and I've got more enthusiasm than trained skill.
you can have it 3d printed using Errol's files http://3dthings.com.au/downloads/ just remember that you need the Unifilter from Australia and the relatively expensive 3M glue to install it. It probably can be installed with the airbox in place but it's easier when it's removed. That would also help to seal the airbox at the seam and the internal divider. The pod mod is probably less involved.
I took my air box to Errol's in Canberra back in the day and he did it for me on the spot, & fed me! One clever cookie that guy...
worth it to take a trip down under just to have it printed. always enjoyed my visits to oz. great place, and friendly from my experience. have to wait until the dust settles on all that going on. thank you. michael
No, it doesn't. Just because they can hear a little more of the induction noise doesn't mean that there's anything more happening under the seat. That said though I'm glad I went for the PodMod as there are no issues with broken/ cracked printed frames plus I can run a disposable $2 pre-filter which can be changed within 3 minutes/ no tools in place of the OEM/ printed frame affair. Nor did I need to pull the airbox/ tear half the bike down to get to it in order to seal it properly. Haven't changed or cleaned the airbox-internal Pod filter since I installed it all those years ago. A quick spray of filter oil every 8000mi and a fresh pre-filter sock every now and then (I tend to do a fair bit of dirt/ gravel) is all that's needed. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/pottering-around.39580/page-9#post-604716
Does anyone else find the main wiring loom blocks the air filter access door from easily opening? I’m tempted to re-route the loom to the same line that the throttle (?) cable takes to free up some room…..
I don't have any problems . Photo of main harness and draw attached. Suspension removed for servicing.
Thanks John - I ended up re-routing mine below the radiator mount and now running alongside the clutch cable. Works good for me - mine was a real pain to get past when opening the air box door. Cheers.
