Just as soon as Twisted Throttle can ship bars to me I'll let you know! If not, Cut, Chop, Rebuild....
Trying to get back on track here. I turned out these little guys this evening. They will be welded in miscellaneous places on the bike to create some mounting points. All the tubing and bending dies are here now so I can proceed on the crash bars.
That's what we are all about here Ken! It's too bad that some crash bars hit the market before we could see what you wanted to build. Thanks for all the extra goodies you left from your trip here. We are making use of the aluminum for Mrs. Fab's skid plate!
Be glad to let you know. I plan on getting a set as soon as they hit Twisted THrottle. I have it to where I am to get a call as soon as they are avail.
The folks at Twisted Throttle intoned that the cost would probably be ove $200, but that was just a guess. We'll have to see...
4 to six weeks is what they quoted me the beginning of the week. The BMW 2010-13 G650GS ones right now in Germany are 149 euros, here they are 219. The TR650 ones are cheaper at 124 Euros. I would say based on this, they will be under 200.00.....Still cheaper than a rad.
Redundant but wanted to post here as well. MSR for YZ250 to 2012. 34-2148 for 25.00 bucks. Fits well, does stick out about a half inch more than stock.
Here is the start of the crash bars. My knees just touch the rear of the guards. Don't know if this will bother me or not, but I like the benefits of the extra places to grab when the bike goes down and I am trying to make the motor accessible, so I brought them up and out. Nothing on this bike is symmetrical. Notice on the top view of how the right arm has to be shorter than the left.
Yesterday I trucked on down to my local WalMart and picked up some Sterilite trash cans to make myself a set of BigDog Wolfman Saddlebag liners. It's all on his web site. I used my plastic pipe hand saw to whack off the tops to 11" high, then split one side down to a hole near the bottom. It just took a few minutes of work, maybe 30, to measure and cut, sand the edges and fit them. I want to cut out the four little reinforcing webs in the bottom too, and I'll put a copper wire into my Weller soldering pistol to make a hot wire cutter. That should melt them out pretty close to the liner wall. I don't want anything sharp in the bottom to wear into my packed bags. On the Cordura bags I will put one or two small holes in the bottom to drain any rain that gets in past the top. No need for that in the waterproof versions. This is a terrific idea. Thanks BigDog!!! It is going to make packing much easier, and gives up hardly any space in the bottom. Maybe half an inch or so. The Sterilites are just right, and I highly recommend doing this if you have these bags. I have two sets, and I will make another set for my Cordura Wolfman bags too.
I am happy with these! They are almost done, but its all I have time for now. I want to add a cross brace up top and other small finishing touches. Need to spend some time with Mrs. Fab and get back to work.
Hmmmm, looks like you intend to take the loop over the top of the fender and let everything rotate underneath. If so, it's a unique idea, and provides a great extraction handle! Stout!!! Don't get T-Boned, but if it ever happens, I pitty the vehicle that tries it!
FabOneUp---------------awesome fabrication work. Well----one of the best compliments a guy can get for his work is........."It Looks Factory". Yours looks better than "Factory". BigDog
Yep, those bars are a work of art! I'm sooo jealous! They are going to provide the ultimate protection for this bike. Fab, I don't know if you will ever want to add aux. lighting, but you could consider providing holes in the bottom of the upper tubes right below the tank in case you ever wanted to run some wiring thru there for lights mounted on the front of the bar; no exposed wire that way. If mounted just inboard from the outer face of the bars the lights would be well protected if you go down somewhere. I try to avoid riding at night but some times it's unavoidable.
