Adjusted the fueling for my bike today. Since my laptop runs on Windows 7 Professional, I used Windows Virtual PC to run Windows XP mode to run the diagnostic program. I got the cable, dongle, and USB software driver CD from SEMCO Designs. When I bought it last year it had the "Power Up" work done to it and the single exhaust conversion (FMF muffler). As far as I can tell the air box looks stock. When I initially checked the fueling, low-mid-high were all set at 100. Based on DynoBob's advice in the first post of this thread, I set low-mid-high to 102-108-120 and took it out for a short ride. Fueling feels so much smoother now when accelerating and minimal popping when decelerating. Bike has better acceleration up to freeway speeds now too, feels more like my former TR650 (which was running a custom tune using a Power Commander V).
I'd say it's a long shot that a TE250 wants the same mapping as a 630. My advise would be to research what Dynojet's PCV map for your bike looks like and approximate it with the iBeat settings. .
Anyone in the Atlanta area that has IBeat software loaded that could help with some tuning? Keith 08 610SM
Hey, I'm struggling with the same thing, sort of. It looks like your cable came with a host of vehicle specific software packages. You should only need the drivers for the cable so your pc can recognize it as a comm port, and iBeat. I have no idea which folder contains the drivers, but it's likely not one of the obvious vehicle specific folders. Mine came with a file specifically named USB Driver.exe Maybe try searching the folder for "driver" and see if something comes up.
contact huskyfly on this forum. I gave him an old 32 bit laptop with ibeat software loaded and a cable that I used many times to tune my huskys
It is not difficult to realize the connection cable . it is complicated to create a dialogue with the computer installed iBeat and mikuni unit
We require a 3-wire cable attached to the motorcycle connector and to a diagnostic connection eobd 1260 as told by " millenium7 " We need pliers to connectors and a tester for measuring ohms to make this
Finished my "eBay" cable and got ibeat working today. Did a idle tps set, and set the co to 100-105-117. Quick test ride seems to pull harder. Lofts the front wheel easier in first. Monday I'll find out if it still acts up at low speed/throttle openings. Seemed a little better today, but it was a short ride. Thanks to those who contributed to this thread! Update: Runs much smoother at cruise, didn't stall at all on my commute today, and on/off throttle transitions at low speed are much improved, and pulls harder/smoother through the revs. nice!
I never got my ibeat working. Tried different laptops, asked a friend for help. Never worked. Very disappointed.
I followed the pin out and general directions in this post: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/the-ibeat-thread.44621/page-9#post-535522 Didn't have to change any settings other than the com port. Check device manager to see which com your USB cable device is assigned to. I am using a netbook with a fresh install of Windows XP. Where do you think your problem lies?
The problem is just with my rotten luck. The friend i asked to help is very good with computers and we tried a USB OBD2 and a bluetooth OBD2. We tried a laptop running XP and i tried WOW64. We double checked we had things set up like instructed here and all we ever got was connection error. Gave up in the end, sucks because i have an intermittent flashing neutral and my solution was to cover it with tape.
