Today I re-adjusted my TPS to 100.2%@WOT, according to the information in this topic;http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/my-diy-efi-tweak.3885/ Now I'm only waiting for spring to arrive, so I can take the bike out for a spin...
Maybe i found reason why someone is happy with 110-110-115 settings with pu plug,and i needed to go as low as 87-90-95.And others somewhere in between. Thumpertalk has conversation about i beat too,and if this is true,it explains a lot. seymore Posted April 16, 2008 I'll repost this info here since this is about iBeat. Also the ECU still adjust for altitude without the O2 sensor by using the atmosphere pressure sensor. There seems to be a bit of confusion about the power up kit and iBeat adjustments. Here is what I have learned and tested... 1. The EFI tuning with iBeat only provides for 2 real adjustments. a) You can calibrate the TPS idle position value so the ECU accurately recognizes idle position. You can adjust the FeedBack parameter #1 (FB1) while the O2 sensor is installed with the bike warm and running. This parameter seems to add (FB1>100%)or subtract (FB1<100%) fuel from the nominal open-loop map. 2. The open-loop or (race) map appears to be used when the O2 sensor is not up to operating temp, or when you change throttle position rapidly and the system can't adjust fast enough, or if you have installed the PowerUp connector. Under these conditions the ECU uses FB1 to offset the amount of fuel. 3. With the Stock O2 sensor installed and at operating temp, the ECU closes the feedback loop from the O2 sensor and tries adjusts the fuel to maintain a Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) of 14.5:1 regardless of the FB1 setting. Perfect combustion would be 14.7:1 with gasoline, giving the lowest exhaust CO emissions and best MPG, but not the most power. A AFR between 12.5 to 13.4 will give the most power. 4. The Power-Up kit tuning bulletin says to adjust the FB1 to 100% before removing the O2 sensor. This appears to be a nominal value. Since the ECU no longer has feedback from the O2 sensor, it has to assume that a known amount of fuel is sprayed for a given injector pulse time. The problem is that this can vary from bike to bike depending on injector and fuel pump performance. So FB1 at 100% maybe great on one bike, but another bike may need to be set at 105% or 97%. Unfortunately most dirt bike dealers have not had a need to invest in dynanometer or exhaust gas analyzers to find the best FB1 setting and street bike shops with the dyno's don't have the iBeat tool or the interest. 5. I found that putting the Power-Up kit on my 450 without calibrating TPS or changing the factory setting of FB1 from 103% caused my bike to run very rich at 11.2:1. This caused the MPG to drop to 26 while riding hard in the dirt and left a thick layer of carbon in the exhaust system and the plug was getting black. You may need to have the dealer adjust the FB1 up or down by 3% at a time then ride it and look at the plug. Just like jetting. It's a pain to reconnect the O2 sensor each time. BTW, don't leave the O2 sensor installed without being connect for any long periods. It can get coated and damaged if not electrical heated. 6. All of this is part of the price and frustration of being a first adopter of EFI from Husky even though they had it on 610ie last year, they didn't have the performance kit and removal of the O2 sensor to deal with. The problem is also compounded by the lack of info from Husky to the dealers and EFI being new to many dealers and owners. I would suggest that if your having problems and the dealer is unsure what to do, have them contact Ferracci for help. So if basemap is in controll with pu plug too,there cant be one setting that works for all. In mine corrected value was between 85-90% in closed loop mode.(this value is shown in top of those fb 1,2,3 ) Ecu has not learned anything yet,all map settings were 100% but i think this time i give it some time to learn so maybe map is better following what that engine wants with pu plug too. There is corrected map also,but it cant be adjusted,only reset if needed. I suspect that this bike had pu plug installed quite soon after it has been bought new. Or ecu forgets its learned map if its long without battery,but i dont think it should behave like that. Maybe fuel pressure is bit higher than it should, or injector is worn and flowing more. or something else. I have not found any info what those fb2&3 does. with pu plug 2 and 3 should chance mid and full throttle settings, but nobody says nothing with lambda. Exept dont touch those settings.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9yr7xbfh36dl4ot/iBeat 2.1.iso?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/aoez1atenxm77cu/iBeat Husqvarna EFU USB V2 Drivers 1.0.iso?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/2kvk2rztd7bx6uc/iBeat_OperationManual-English.pdf?dl=0 .
Anybody has tested on Dyno the ideal setting from Dynobob vs Jdjetting or pc5? I have the JD tuner (free given with my aftermarket exhaust) and not sure to find any difference in behavior... JD is useless and I should keep Ibeat setting finally? Same question for the consumptions. With 102 106 116 (FMF exhaust, lambda plug and Maze out) I found the new 40mpg quite low for an EFI 140kg dry bike... Friend with a 690 is 50mpg on the same trip.
Hello! Does anyone has a link to buy the husqvarna 6 pin obd2 adapter in the USA? I know Lonelec sells these adaptors but they are located in the UK, does anyone know where could I order one in the US?
I made my own with these parts, it works well. There is a lot of info in this thread on how to build the cable and to get set up. https://www.amazon.com/AUTOOL-OBD-i...ds=Obd2 Extension Cable&qid=1628884366&sr=8-6 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NWF8UIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/VIMVIP-VAG-C...98D0/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B00K6498D0&psc=1
Im looking forward on building one then, do you know in what page is the information on how to build the cable and set it up on this thread? I couldnt find it
Hello! Do you have the link of the specific Vag KKL 409.1 cable that you bought on Ali Express? Thank you!
Hello, How did you forwarded the USB from the host to the guest? Ive tried everything but my VM doesnt read any USBs
Just got an Ibeat software and cable setup. I installed it on an old 32bit XP laptop. Program installed no issues. Connected it to m TE630 but all I get is communication stops error. Ibeat is set to com port 1. Laptop says the port is working properly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Joe
ibeat Connection guide: A few weeks ago I started on a project that I have been envisioning for a couple of years; building my own engine monitoring dashboard monitor with a single board computer (SBC) like a Raspberry Pi or an Arduino. I have two Italian Huskys, a 2008 TE510 and a 2012 TXC310. At first, I was going to build something like a Trail tech with "additive sensors" but I remembered reading about iBeat a few years back so began to investigate tapping into the diagnostic port for getting data. But I knew that to get started, I would need to get iBeat working. Plus, the scope of what I wanted to do was far simpler than what iBeat was designed for, so I knew that at some point I would just want to get iBeat working. One very important note before I dive in; my ability to do this was only because of the 7 years and 35 pages of posts made by others before I stumbled upon this thread. I don't really add anything new that others haven't already investigated and shared on their own. My intent of this was to compile all of this information into one spot, from the bike to the software and all of the pitfalls in between. It was pretty simple for me to get this going, but I do have a background in industrial controls, serial communications, computer programming, etc so I was able to fill in the blanks pretty easily. I wanted to fill in some of those blanks for others who may have different backgrounds. Also, many of the links of the parts are old, so I wanted to update that as well. And occasionally, there are a few questions that have gone unanswered that I have seen asked here and on other forums that I wanted to address as well. Overview: Connecting iBeat to your bike requires: 1. A physical connection to the motorcycle ECM via the factory diagnostic port 2. A converter cable to make the physical and protocol conversions USB to K line communications used by the ECM. 3. A Windows XP computer or a Virtual PC running windows XP 4. Special software (iBeat) All four of these items must be setup correctly for proper iBeat communications. Definitions: · Physical characteristics- The geometry of the connections, the numbers of wires, and their voltages. · Protocol characteristics- This refers to the number of wires, the “language” they speak etc. · Male Connectors/Female Connectors- The gender of connector is referenced by the pins, not the body of the connectors. So if you look at the connector and it seems like there are a bunch of tiny wieners pointing at you, that’s a male connection! 1. Physical Connection to the ECM The connection on your motorcycle is a female 6 position weather proof connector called an AMP 070 Econoseal Type J Mark 2. If you want to connect to it using the same connector, you need to get a male one of these. I purchased these from www.cycleterminal.com for a about $7 plus freight. The nice thing about buying from Cycle terminal is that you get all of the parts in one SKU; you don’t have to buy the outer housing, inner plate, pins, and seals separately. AMP 070 Econoseal-J MKII (cycleterminal.com) You connect this connector to a female OBD pigtail: Amazon.com: iKKEGOL 1ft Feet 30cm/12 16 Pin J1962 OBD OBDII OBD2 Female Connector Car Diagnostic Extension Cable Cord Pigtail DIY Mobley Adapter : Automotive There are multiple type of these, some are meant to make a cable assembly and others have the wires loose and the connector is designed to be panel mounted. This is how it is mounted in your car. You only need three wires, but I recommend getting one with all of the wires to make sure the pins you need are available. When you get it, and it doesn’t come with a pinout guide (which pins are which color) you will have to use a meter or a light or something to ring out the 3 pins that you need. When you find the 3 wires, you crimp on the pins to the wires and build the connector. You can use pliers, but to crimp on the pins well, I recommend a dedicated pin crimping tool. I got mine at a local electronics store for $10, but here is one I found on Amazon. The ratcheting ones are nice but not necessary if you are only doing this occasionally. Amazon.com: Molex Crimping Tool,Knoweasy Open Barrel Terminal Crimping Tool for Molex,Delphi,AMP and Tyco,Harley,PC and Computer,Automotive 24-14 AWG : Everything Else Once you have this completed, you now will have a standard OBD2 connector on your bike that is compatible with a commercially available OBD cable and converter. Note that this is a PHYSICAL connection only, and you are just rearranging the physically layout of the pins for convenience. There are many photos of guys on here that have just run wires from the bike connector to an OBD converter cable. Electrically, it will work totally fine. If you go that route, I recommend heat shrinking the pins so you don’t accidentally short them out (ummm I might have done that). 2. USB Converter Cable. I used the following cable from Amazon: Amazon.com: OHP INPA Cable FTDI FT232RL USB OBD2 for BMW Diagnostic Coding | K Line | Windows Only : Automotive This is a PHYSICAL and PROTOCOL converter. It doesn’t just rearrange wires, it actually makes 2 conversions just inside the housing. Starting at the OBD plug, it converts the K-line signal from the bike using resistors and transistors to a half duplex serial connection. The K-line is bidirectional meaning the sending and receiving signals go back and forth on a single wire. A half duplex serial connection has two wires, one that send and one that receives. The next conversion is to take the half duplex signal and convert it to USB. This is performed by a chip called and FTDI FT232RL. FTDI is the company name (Future Technology Devices International) and the FT232RL is the model. This chip is WIDLEY copied and there are tons of devices with fake FTDI chips. It has not happened to me, but I have heard that if you download newer drivers (which happens automatically with WIN10) the driver will brick a fake FTDI chip. One of the reasons I chose this cable is that is featured a real FTDI chip. I have no way of actually verifying other than cost and apparent reputation of the seller. Sub $20 devices will rarely have real FTDI chips. I also purchased the following cable: Amazon.com: Qiilu Car OBD2 USB Cable Scanner Scan Tool for COM KKL 409.1(Blue) : Automotive but it didn’t work because WIN10 was struggling with drivers. This device is identical to the one above, but it uses a CH340 converter chip. Not a “fake” FTDI but a cheaper competitive brand. I have had issues with these converters on other devices, such as knock off Arduino SBCs. I probably could have gotten it to work had I spent more time dorking with it, but since I had a working converter cable already I just left it alone. Both of these converter cables have a red LED. On the more expensive one, the LED turns on when the battery is on on the bike. On the cheaper one, the LED turns on when you plug in the USB. Doesn’t really matter, just interesting to note. If you are looking for one from a different source, you want to look for one that is compatible with ISO 9141 K-Line protocol or ISO 14230 KWP (Key word protocol). IMPORTANT NOTE! AN ELM 327 device, serial, Wi-Fi or Bluetooth WILL NOT WORK! Without going into too much detail on an ELM327, just note that it won’t work because the Mikuni ECM does not actually conform to the ISO-9141 protocol. It only shares the Bi-directional line. An ELM 327 is designed to communicate with all of the standard ODB2 protocols, so it is pretty nifty, just not in our case. 3. Windows XP computer. If you have a Windows XP computer, you can pretty much skip this step and install the software. If you can’t find one, or don’t want to buy and old XP laptop, a virtual computer running XP is the way to go. If you have an old windows 7 computer, it probably has “WINDOWS XP MODE” which is a virtual computer that came with Windows 7. That might work, but I haven’t tested it. To make a virtual Windows XP computer you will need a Virtual Machine “player” which are generally free for non-commercial use. I used VMWare Workstation 16. I have heard that Oracle Virtual Box works as well. Hyper-V, which is includes in Windows 10 (but not installed and running by default) will NOT work because it doesn’t support bridging the “real” COM ports to the virtual ones without extra paid for software. Download VMware Workstation Player | VMware You will then need a copy of Windows XP. This can be the real trick. I was lucky to have some old ass computers and copies of Win XP, so I had the CD AND the activation code. These can be found on the interwebs. It isn’t legal, but it does work, but there are a lot of sites where you can download a bunch of crap thinking you are getting a copy of XP. This is where buying an old Ebay laptop actually can be easier. There is a mechanism where you can create a folder shared between the hose (real) computer and the virtual computer. This is a convenient way to move files from the host to the virtual computer, such as iBeat software, any logs you create, or USB drivers. 4.The iBeat software The last piece of the puzzle is the software itself. Here are links to it supplied by DYNOBOB https://www.dropbox.com/s/9yr7xbfh36dl4ot/iBeat 2.1.iso?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/aoez1atenxm77cu/iBeat Husqvarna EFU USB V2 Drivers 1.0.iso?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/2kvk2rztd7bx6uc/iBeat_OperationManual-English.pdf?dl=0 The first link is for an ISO “image” which is like a virtual CD. You “mount” the image by right clicking on the .iso file and it will act like a CD drive. You can then install ibeat. Note this has to happen on the VIRTUAL machine! When you plug in your converter cable you will hear the USB “doink” sound. In VMWare, a box will come up asking if you want to hook the device up to the host or the virtual computer. Also in VMWare is a bunch of icons in the top right of the available devices and if they are connected. You right click the symbol that looks like a USB plug and you can connect that way too. You would then go to SYSTEM PROPERTIES and then DEVICE MANAGER and then expand the PORTS section to see the COM port assigned to the USB converter cable. Take note of the assignment. When you start iBeat the first time it will probably give you an error that the COM port was not found. It will open up a dropdown box where you pick the COM Port you saw in the Device manager. You will have to restart iBeat. Please note the cables have to be plugged in, and the bike powered up to start communications. If this is all done when you start iBeat, you should connect no problem. If not, click on the orange “off line” in the top right and it should connect. Since I first got this working, it has worked flawlessly, and I have stopped started connected and reconnected a gazillion times in the last two weeks. Final Note: I have made headway on my original intention on starting this project, and have figured out how to connect to the ECM without using iBeat and send data requests and receive data. I have done this with Hyperterminal on the PC and with a Raspberry Pi 3b+ running Node Red. I will probably make a final solution with a Pi Pico or Arduino Nano. I have been using my Node Red setup as it is far quick for prototyping. Here is a quick dashboard I have made with the few data bits I have been able to decode. In the coming weeks I am hoping to figure out how to SEND commands other than just reading data.
Much Appreciated Clydemule. Am in the middle of restoring a te 610 2008 and this is the best explanation i have seen of what to do. Looking forward to getting all the parts together and really playing with what the bike could actually do!! One question. "The first link is for an ISO “image” which is like a virtual CD. You “mount” the image by right clicking on the .iso file and it will act like a CD drive. You can then install ibeat. Note this has to happen on the VIRTUAL machine!" [ If you are using a XP machine does this iso image mounted work as the CD player as well. Only thing that needs clarification. Am currently actively looking for an old lappy that I can use only for my Husky. XP would be best I think. Cheers for the great post!! Todd
