Todd, I retraced my steps in response to your question. I consider myself a pretty hand computer guy, so I am used to just finding workarounds when I get technical roadblocks, and not necessarily remembering how I got there. I actually mounted the image in Win 10 (on a machine with no CD drive) and then copied the contents of the virtual CD drive onto the actual hard drive of the computer. When I say "virtual CD" drive I still mean on "real" Win 10, not the XP virtual machine. Basically what you could do with a real CD; just copy the contents to the hard drive. Win10 has built in support for .iso files. WinXP does not. It will just see the .iso file and not know how to handle it. Searching my memory banks, I remember software called VirtualClone that you could download (I think it is freeware) that you could install which allowed WinXP to handle .iso files. An easier alternative might be to mount the .iso on a Win10 machine, and then copy the contents to a folder on your hard drive. The CD contents are only 115MB. This will easily fit on a thumb drive that you can then hook up to the USB port of your XP machine. Again, drag them over to your XP hard drive and you should just me able to double click the setup file. Here is a link ton how to mount .iso files for WinXP: How-To Mount an ISO Image in Windows 7, Vista and XP (groovypost.com)
Very much appreciated Clyde... Am not to bad on computers when i need to be. Good to know I can use win 10 ... Would mean riding the bike into the lounge room to hook it up to the PC... No drama. Just waiting on the cables and a spark resistor cap, a new coil and will post my finds!! Thank mate!!!
Good evening. First time I write on your fantastic website - I´m Roberto from Spain. i had 2 HQV and my best friend has 2 ones 450 2020 and 701 from 2020 too - I neeed a software to connect to them. I have eBeat but never con connect to this bykes. My questioin is to know if you know which is the best to can connect to this marvellous bikes.
Ibeat only works on the fuel injected Italian Husqy's up till 2010. For the newer bikes you probably need something produced by KTM.
Alright, first and foremost thanks to everyone contributing to this thread. Just bought myself a 2010 TE250. It was running a little rough when idling, but I got that sorted out I think. it was surging when idling every now and then (not always), RPM would go up and down likes waves on the ocean. I'm guessing about 500 rpm's difference and also the header pipe would get cherry red. I was assuming a lean condition, didn't drive it like that since I didn't want to burn a valve. Cleaned the Mikuni body and injector and things looked better. Dialed in the idle mixture screw and no more surging but still a cherry red pipe when idling. So I decided it was time for iBeat. My bike has the restrictors removed and the 4 hole injector. This is what I found: - TPS 1.2% at idle, 102.7% full throttle - CO Settings all at 100 - No current faults, only historic (injector open circuit, manifold air temp high, manifold pressure low, throttle position low) Reading through this thread made me think it was time for a TPS reset. That's the first thing I did. Set it to 0% at closed throttle, 100.4% at full throttle. Since I was afraid it was running lean at idle I also adjusted the CO1 to 112 (if that even does anything at idle?). Played around between 105 and 120 and found it to run best right around 112. What is the consensus on the TPS reset? Two procedures I saw being used: Procedure 1: Set TPS to proper values (TE250 at 0/100.4%), set idle mixture screw to 2.75 turns out as a base setting and see how it runs when warm. Use idle mixture screw to get the bike to idle at desired RPM (shoot for 1950 RPM). Do not mess with throttle hard stop screw after setting everything well at 0%/100.4%. Procedure 2: Set TPS to proper values (TE250 at 0/100.4%), set idle mixture screw to 2.75 turns out as a base setting and see how it runs when warm. So same as procedure 1 up until now. Now however instead of fiddling with the idle mixture screw you screw the TPS hard stop on the throttle body in/out to open/close throttle blade until desired RPM is reached with idle mixture screw at 2.75 turns out as a base setting. Do not however reset TPS in iBeat after messing with the hard stop screw, leave the TPS sensor position to what it was set to (0%/100.4%) prior to setting the idle RPM with the hard stop screw. Now the bike should idle at 1950 RPM, which took me about 5 turns out from the 0%/100.4% setting on the hard stop screw on the throttle body. Now if needed adjust idle mixture screw minimally, 2.75 turns out should be the ball park. Now my questions is... what is the general consensus on which procedure is correct? I found the following; Procedure 1 worked but I had to turn the idle mixture screw out at least 5 full turns to get it to idle lower. It would idle at 3400 RPM with the idle mixture screw at 2.75 turns out. Even with 5 turns out it didn't want to idle anywhere lower than 2200 RPM. Procedure 2 worked very well and made it idle properly at 1950 RPM with the idle mixture screw at 2.75 turns out. However the hard stop screw on the throttle body is now about 5 turns further out (throttle blade further closed) than what iBeat is thinking it is since I adjusted it after setting it with iBeat. So procedure 2 seemed to work best in my case, but I feel like I'm fooling the TPS right now with a different position/curve than what the computer is thinking. It ran great except when just opening and holding the throttle (I'm talking maybe 2% throttle applied). Then you could definitely feel it buck around as if you wouldn't know how to use a clutch. I think I could get that dialed in with proper idle mixture screw adjustment and CO settings, since there's still work to be done there. It is so far definitely improving the way it's running, but am I on the right path here? A stranger to iBeat...
Unless I'm missing something, I'm not sure what you're referring to as the "idle mixture screw" ? To my knowledge there is only an idle speed adjustment screw. I would get the TPS set close to zero at closed throttle and then turn the idle speed screw as necessary to get idle to ~1900rpm. You could then double check your TPS and make sure it is near zero. In 10yrs of owning my 630 I've only had to slightly adjust the idle speed screw and never have messed with the TPS. Hope that helps and good luck! .
Thank you! This was on a TE250, so maybe the screws are different on a 610. I know there is a lot of iBeat knowledge here, so hence I tried. On a TE250 there's a screw with a spring, which I believe is the idle mixture screw. Which does affect RPM, however from what I understood is that only fine adjustments should be needed, like you mentioned. In my case it took 5 turns out to get it to idle at 2300 RPM after the TPS reset. Could not get it to idle lower (even though TPS was reading zero at closed throttle). Which made me think the throttle blade was too far open and it seems that was the case indeed. When I adjusted the throttle position hard screw and closed the throttle blade more it ran much better (didn't change the TPS settings in iBeat when I did that). Just trying the find the right way of doing this and mostly what the consensus is on procedure 1 vs 2. At least these two procedures are what I found digging through this thread.
Just wanted to say that I finally got around to testing the cable setup I got from https://www.lonelec.com/ with ibeat from the ISO here (thanks!) on an old Dell 1310 32bit XP machine. It worked fine & I got everything engine not running.... Need to wait till I can connect earlier in the day to try it with engine running and see if I can adjust CO figure.... I have an uptite pipe and PU so looks like I should be aiming at 100,107, approx. Be interesting to see what it's currently set at as it seems to pull fine everywhere and starts well (although usually needs the fast idle for a few sec). I could see FB was 100,100,100 but I don't know if that means anything at all on a cold engine...
With the engine running (warm or cold) CO is still greyed out. FB cannot be adjusted other than the "steps % field. I guess I have to re-install the lambda, adjust FB1 and then re-install PU plug if I want to make changes. My bike works pretty good "as is" but I think I can hear some "knocking" at low rev take off (but this may be old gas, probably shouldn't fill that 6.6 gallons & let it sit...)
I had a 2008 TE 250 and I believe the adjustment is only through FB. My 2012 works thru CO and doesn’t need the Lambda installed. Pretty sure 2008 did for adjustment. Confusing huh?
Hi, I've read the entire Forum, learned a lot, thank you guys! So, a couple months ago a problem apeared in my 610 SM IE, I was driving and suddenly, the revs went all the way up to 3500. After weeks of checking and trying things like cleaning air filter, checking oils and more stuff (i'm still learning), I saw that one of my throttle cables was broken bc of rust. I had change it and the rev went down to 2500-2700, so the problem was there. I can imagine that the ECU, after months of going on 3500-3700 on IDLE, had reprogrammed itself in order to adjust to this 3500-3700? Now the throttle cable is fixed is, but the revs still pretty high maybe bc of ECU? So, i decided maybe its an ECU problem. I've managed to conect to Ibeat, and following the information on this forum, I adjusted the TPS to 928mV. The graphic dial goes fom 0% to 102,8%. Had no luck as the revs still going up to 2500 on IDLE. I want to try to adjust FB and CO parameters, I have the O2 sensor but not installed currently (anulated). I want to ask you, if I manage to install the O2 sensor, ¿would this fix the high rev count by changing FB/CO parameters? Thank you all!
Something similar happened to me, I was riding along and suddenly the bike wouldn't drop below 4000 or so RPM. The jam nut on the idle adjustment screw had loosened and fallen off. Engine vibes had excited the stop screw and screwed it in blocking the throttle from returning to idle. You might check that. Good luck! .
IIRC, this was the screw that ran itself in. It took some looking to find a nut that fit the screw. I carry a spare now. .
Thanks Dynobob for the reply!! Yes I've checked that and it was tight, I'm wondering now, the normal position of the valve is fully closed? That's how I have it now, fully closed touching the screw. Still on 2000 in cold start and after riding 3 minutes goes up to 2700 idle. I will try O2 sensor later on...
Thanks to this thread and some experimenting, I got iBeat working… for a while. 2010 510SMR Win 7 32 bit I was able to Set the TPS to max 100.3% and about 1000mv. Started super easy and idled great (no ride - raining). Cleared history and no other faults popped up. Disconnected to do other stuff then wanted to reconnect and check the other parts of the software and now it won’t connect. I see “Interrupted Communication” next to the offline/online button and get the “Communication stops” message. I’ve tried changing port numbers, removing and reinstalling drivers AND iBeat. Rebooted a bunch of times. Compatibility mode. Disconnected battery for 10 minutes. Key on and off. I cannot figure out what has changed. It worked GREAT for about 30 minutes. All I did was disconnect the USB from my laptop and close it. Nothing else changed. Thanks
First of all, thanks guys for all info in this thread. I sucefully made the Ibeat cable and to contribute I made the cable pinout.
I'm looking for the site that went through the steps on to install WinXP with VirtualBox along with some sort of upgrade package to make everything work properly. (Granted it may not have been specific to iBeat). I tried it once a while back but had to reformat the drive and I must not have been logged into my browser (this is a barn laptop) so it didn't save the history. Can anyone help me out? Thanks!
