That pic is from a very informative member who did the job with the whole assembly removed and gave us very clear details as to how it all works. The thermostat assembly is similar to most others as it opens by wax expansion against the spring when the temperature is reached. Similar to your device it is obviously necessary to have a deflector just like the set up already has. You can remove the thermostat spring so it sits continuously open and replace everything else then it has the correct flow pattern across the radiator but also a slight flow around the existing deflector to prevent possible pressure build up, all vehicle set ups have the same arrangement, none of them force water across the radiator. My evidence and all the other posts indicate that this is a pig of a job which involves near destruction of the 'mickey mouse' assembly to get it apart and definitely not a simple rotate radiator, remove circlip and tap out as you originally stated and then when I questioned it you added the aluminium rod and 'Hammer' information. I was very concerned that members may read into your original post and consider it to be an easy job, when in fact it is far from that and they may damage their cooling set up like I nearly did - Tap out from the top, my a*se it will.
Raising his mighty hammer of Thor to the ceiling, Ty electrified his hammer and with one mighty blow downward upon his titanium alloy chisel of the Gods, he struck the thermostat housing. It blasted out the bottom with such extreme ferocity that it was driven downward, piercing the concrete below. All who stood in awe were blasted backwards through the walls! The crowds cheered as the mighty Ty Davis had slain his black dragon!!! Haha, it was a little less dramatic, Ty just tapped it out. It's just an o-ring on plastic. You have to remove the clip, tilt it out of the way of the gas tank, that's all.
I added the Thermostat Delete spacer to my website for purchase. I will put images up as soon as I can. http://www.ziptyracing.com/zipty-thermostat-delete/
Yes, sorry it took so long, thought it was going to be a simple lathe job. When you consider thermal expansion and a huge chunk of aluminum, took a lot more work. It's mostly hidden, but it really flows well. I had no problem adding xf2 coolant, no air bubble.
Once the circlip is removed, it just taps out from the top. I witnessed the above referenced act. The amount of flow increased. So far everything is working perfect. I now have no worries of the funky, outdated thermostat from malfuntioning. It truely is a poorly designed piece of plastic.
They were not anodized. I figured few people would lay on the ground to see it and you guys wouldn't really want the extra expense. It is 3 pieces, pressed together and remachined to reduce weight and flow restriction. It was supposed to sell for $90, so I dropped it down $25 to 65.
OK, making it in 3 pieces would be much easier. The price is very reasonable for the effort involved to make it. I wish there was a similar item that simply replaced the plastic OEM part that retains a thermostat.
It would be better to have the thermostat in some other location and larger, rather than trying to cram it into a small space.
Just ordered mine. Getting tired of this thing running so hot all the time. Will report back how the install goes without Thor's hammer in my possession.
Give us a call if you need help installing. When you refill your coolant, fill slowly to eliminate any air bubbles.
I agree, many bikes have it on the engine directly which seems like a great and simple solution, just like a car. That way your radiator is much simpler.
